Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Baking Heating Element Burned Up
Used a screw driver with a socket head to remove the two hex head screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element forward until the two wire attachements were visable. The wires were attached with a simple tab connector. Removed the wires from the element. Attached wires to new element slide the element and wires back into wall of oven and replaced screws. Done!
Replaced clock control by removing surface burner control knobs and plastic nuts, and then the cover over the oven control. Two screw hold the clock in place, after removal and disconnecting the plug-in you can reinstall the new clock control. The Heat Sensor inside the oven will also need to be replaced. It is located inside the oven and attached with two screws; the back of the oven will need to be removed to unplug. Reverse removal procedure and turn the power back on to the stove.
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
Removed the two screws that hold the element in place at the rear of the oven.Unplug each prob,you may need pliers as they can be a little tight.Reconnected the new element.Keep the old screws.New element does not come with screws.Always unplug range when doing repairs.
I followed the directions by clipping wires to old burner socket, splicing the wires to new terminal block, screwing down new "block bracket," and plugging in new burner.
Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
Most of the job is simple fastener mechanics. Use a nut driver or Phillips screwdriver. Remove rear panel.
Pull out control knob. If it is stuck, wrap a small rag around the back of it and pull the rag steadily.
Carefully match marked terminals on the replacement switch with those on original. Switch terminals may not be in the same location. Replace wires one for one, one at a time.
Carefully select the correct knob filler for the switch post. Several are supplied. Proceed with logic and measure the shaft length and the filler length and type to match.
When we bought our home less than a year ago, we had three functional burners on our 40" wide 50's classic Kelvinator (not close to standard size these-a-days). After a few months of use, two more burners went out for good and we were stuck using the back left burner for all of our cooking. I opted for the premium burners and made sure to compare my terminals with the ones online to be sure they mounted the same. I removed the burners and terminals, clipped the wires going into the terminals, and removed the top of the stove. I followed the directions that came with the new terminals, pushed in the new burners and viola! All four burners now work. I gave the stove a general cleaning and now my 1954 Kelvinator looks and cooks like it is brand new. It was easily the best $109 I've spent on my home.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Replaced the element and put back in place. Took about 10 minutes. Repair part came in 2 days. Very awesome website!
First of all I removed the top panel then removed the switch. I then took pictures of the switch & drew a sketch with all the info. Then I went to your web site, matched up the switch & ordered. When the switch arrived I went thru the above replacing the bad switch.
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
I assumed the bake element was the problem,so I ordered one from Part Select.I was amazed that I got it in 2 days! After removing the 2 screws that held the element in place,I disconnected the 2 wires from the element.I wasnt being very careful and let one of the wires slip back into the hole in the back of the oven.Couldnt get the wire back out,so I had to take the back of the stove off to get to it.Next time,I'll be careful to keep the wires from going back into the holes.Then I connected the element,screwed it in place an turned the oven on.Success !!!
I simply removed the old drip pans and inserted the new ones which matched and fit perfectly. I'm glad I found you on line. Your service was fast and the whole transaction was easy!! Thanks.