FEP350BW1 Roper Range - Instructions

Turned off stove breaker. Unscrewed burner from stove top, took out burner and spill pan. Lifted top of stove, cut the wire as instructed and put all parts together as instructed. Placed everything back together as instructed. I did it myself!

I had to use a small hammer and nail set (you could use a nail) to hammer out the stub of the broken rivet which had held on the old clip; this was the hardest part of the job. Attaching the new clip was easy, in part because my screwdriver is magnetized so would hang onto the itsy-bitsy screw. I'd put up with broken/missing clips for years--a decade?--and burners that slipped around; this was such an easy job, the parts and shipping was so inexpensive, and I'm so glad to have stable burners again that I wish I had done it years ago.

easy fix...unplugged the stove, removed 2 screws & unplugged 2 wires.....took new one out of the box & plugged wires in, put plate back on & put the 2 screws back in, plugged stove back in & turned oven on to make sure it worked.....took maybe 5 minutes...hardest part was getting new element out of the box... LOL!!!

First, turn off the breaker to the oven, then turn off the service disconnect to the whoe house. I play safe.) Open the door, pull out the oven racks to allow space. Using a Phillips screw driver, unscrew the screws near the front of the oven to loosen the element. Using both hands, pull the element straight out of the holes in the back of the oven, where you will find electric wires attached to them. Pull the ends of the element off the wire connectors. Throw it away. Get you new element, attach the element ends to the connectors. Raise it up to the top of the oven and screw the screws back in to the holes in the top of the oven. You are finished. (The only reason this took me 30 minutes is because I am an old 79 year old granny and can't bend so well, or see so well. I had to use a little acrylic paint on my finger tips to mark the screw holes, it was taking too long to find them the old way, by feel.) GG

Four screws hold the broiler element. I removed the two at the top, then removed the two screwed to the back keeping the element in place. I slowly pulled the element forward and used alligator clips to keep the wire connectors from falling back behind the oven. I disconnected the wires from the broken element and replaced it with the new element. I removed the alligator clips. I screwed the two screws on the back and the two on top and I was finished. Problem solved.

plugged it in to the spot where missing element was.

Ordered wrong part at first caused me to blow out two elements. With the help of PartSelect I was able to get the right surface block terminal and replaced both of them, then found out I had a bad switch, they got the switch within 2 days I had my stove working good again. Thanks to PartSelect. Also watched the video which was very helpful ML

I simply unscrewed the mounting bracket from back of oven and disconnected the old elements. Then I reconnected the new elements and remounted the brackets in place. A very simple procedure for any person to handle. I would imagine having a technician come out and do the repairs would have been around $400.00 for our double oven but I did it just in parts alone of $94.00.

After turning off circuit breaker to the stove, I removed all surface units , removed the 4 screws holding the top and lifted up. The plug in was burned out (the wire was burned). Look at the old plug-in so as to be able to match the new one and insert the pre- crimped end of wires into the block and the block into the metal holder that matches your old one. (The kit comes with 2 different metal holders)After this, cut out the old wires and wire nut the new wires with the stove wires. Put shrink wrap protector on the wire nuts and heat to shrink it tight.attach the block to the stove top and wa la its done. Very easy.

I removed the burner element, then the drip pan. I took off the old block. Then I had to strip the old wires. Then I put on the heat sleeve, then attached the new wires to the old wires with nuts. Put heat sleeve over this and heated with lighter. Then put everything back together.

Unscrewed 4 screws holding element. Disengaged one wire, but 2nd one was separated while pulling through rear wall. Could not grasp the wire from the front. Then unscrewed 4 screws along sides of oven to pull casing away from wall cavity. Sat oven on a box while unscrewing 12 rear panel screws. Pulled wire through from back into oven. (Didn't need to do this because new element extended through the rear wall to access from back. Could have reattached wires to new element from the rear, but didn't realize this soon enough.)....two days later reinstalled new broiler element reattaching wires inside the oven and replacing 4 screws holding element in the oven. To replace the back panel I had to lay oven on its face so the holes on back of would fit with the rear panel. Put 12 screws back on. Then pushed oven back into wall cavity and put 4 screws holding oven in place. It is now working!

Shut off the breaker for the oven, cutting the power. Removed the 2 screws holding the element to the back of the oven. Slid the 2 electrodes off the old unit, replaced it with the new one, replaced 2 screws, cut power back on at the breaker box. 23 year old oven works just like new.

2 minutes 2 screws

Unscrewed screw holding bracket. Used side cutters to cut wires. Replaced the bracket, put the shrink wrap on wires, twisted wires together and held with wire caps. Shrunk the wrap with lighter. I'm a 67 year old female.. No problems.

I had to use a bolt loosening product such as WD-40 to loosen the screws holding the old element. Once that was done - with some effort I was able to remove the screws. Removing the two connectors from the old element was easy. However, the connector wires slightly went back into the holes they came out of. They had been in their enclosure for such a long time that they wanted to spring back to their original position. I had to use a knitting hook to fish one of the wires back out. Then I clamped it to needle nose pliers while I grabbed the new element. Connecting the new element and hooking it back up was real easy.