Models > FEP330BL0 > Instructions

FEP330BL0 Roper Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for FEP330BL0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FEP330BL0
1-15 of 339
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oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Joe from Greeley CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 462 of 463 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, then removed element and replaced with new
.

Drip bowls were burned and tacky

  • Customer: Donna from Dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 459 of 458 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the old bowls and replaced them with the new.

lower back element stopped working

  • Customer: Bradley from Lexington OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 447 of 524 people found this instruction helpful
I got the model number and ordered a replacement element from partselect, was shipped quickly and I installed it in about 30 minutes, it now works great

Drip bowls needed to be replaced

  • Customer: John from Chester VT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 444 of 523 people found this instruction helpful
took old bowls out, put new bowls in, took a coffee break

Surface elements quit working

  • Customer: Jon from Oakley CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 203 of 282 people found this instruction helpful
Drilled out old and broken hold down clips, installed new ones(4). Cut old wires attached to surface plug in block, striped wires, and attached new plugin kit(4), warmed up heat shrink with a hair dryer, put in new drip bowels, the stove is like new.
I ordered the parts on line early one morning, the next day they were at my door and installed that day, everything that I ordered was there, and fit properly.

Way to go Part Select.com

Jon

Oven stopped heating.....

  • Customer: Richard from Pattonsburg MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 219 of 368 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the oven racks....

Removed the two screws holding element in place...

Disconnected spade lug connectors from old heating element.

Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.

Reinstalled screws.....replaced oven racks....mission acomplished!

The bake element stopped working.

  • Customer: Harry from Charlotte NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 188 of 328 people found this instruction helpful
First I cut off the power to the stove and double-checked to make sure no current was flowing to the unit. There were two screws attaching the bake element plate to the oven. I unscrewed the two screws and carefully pulled the bake element away from the oven exposing the contact wires. I carefully loosened the wire contacts from the bake element, slid the bake element off the contacts and then slid the new bake element onto the wire contacts. I gently clamped the contacts onto the bake element, pushed the wires back into the back of the oven and screwed back the bake element plate onto the interior of the oven. I turned on the power to test my work and I was done.

Old drip pans stained

  • Customer: Linda from Atlanta GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 210 of 412 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced old drip pans with new ones - very easy - even a 68 yr old lady can do it!!

Heating element for oven broke in two.

  • Customer: Jody from Moweaqua IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 209 of 409 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the two screws holding the heating element to the back of the oven. Pulled the wires away from the connections of the old element and connected the new element. Reinstalled the screws holding the element to the back of the oven. Easiest repair I've ever done! Replaced the drip pans on the cook top and installed the new clock knobs. Good as new!

Needed to replace chrome drip bowls and replace one of the hold down clip since previous owner used incorrect drip bowls and put pressure on the hold down clip.

  • Customer: Donna from Petaluma CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 206 of 405 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled out the electric element from the range, replaced the new drip bowl on three of the burners and then replaced the electric element pushing it into the hold down clip. On the fourth burner, I removed the electric outlet, the previous incorrect drip bowl and had to drill out the broke off hold down clip that was no longer there. Next I placed the new hold down clip in position, alligned and fed the little screw through the hold down clip. I used a vice grip to hold the nut in place and with a screw driver tighened the nut. I placed the drip bowl in place, attached the electric element and slipped it into the new hold down clip. Everything went smoothly and I experienced an excellent repair job. We received prompt service and had no problems. I just hope the used appliance that we bought works now. It looks great. It is for a rental unit.

We needed new drip pans and no one carried the model we needed

  • Customer: sylvia from ventnor city NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 65 of 65 people found this instruction helpful
we removed the old pans after first removing the electric heating element and simply inserted tne new pans

Uneven heating, red spot on element

  • Customer: Tim from Tigard OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 87 of 151 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the two screws that held the old element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires This was challenging; the element uses blade connectors that are difficult to grab, and I didn't want to damage the connectors with pliers. Strenuous wiggling eventually worked. After that, I just reconnected the blade connectors to the new element, pushed the wires back in, and tightened the two screws.

It was fortunate that I saw a red spot on the element. When I removed it, I noticed a hole had been eaten part way through the old element. I was probably weeks away from a fire.

8 inch burner wouldn't come on. Wires shorted out

  • Customer: Jonathan from Lilburn GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 34 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).

The burner would keep heating after turning off the switch

  • Customer: RON from KAUFMAN TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 30 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
Start by turning off the power to the range.
It was fairly easy to take the "Control Deck" off the top of the range by removing about 8 screws. I leaned the deck forward without removing any wires except a green ground that was held on by one of the screws.
There are two small screws under the switch knob holding the Infinite Switch to the panel. I removed these and let the switch hang on the wires. To avoid missplacing or crossing the wires... I moved one wire at a time to the new switch, then attached the switch to the panel and put it all back together.
Whole job was done in about 15 minutes

Burners were working intermittenly. Sockets arching.

  • Customer: Raymond from Rome PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
First, I pulled the stove away from the wall and unplugged it from the wall outlet. I then removed all of the burners and pans. I removed the upper part of the back cover on the stove to reveal the wiring harness, from the reostats to the burners. I made sure that the length of the new harrness was the same as the old one. I then checked the color of the wires to make sure they corrosponded with the old ones.
( Before removing the wires, I used a sharpie permanent black marker and wrote the color of each wire next to where it connected.) Then I removed all of the wires from the connectors on the reostats.
I then removed the screws from the bracket that holds the wire harness to the stove and the one from the short green grounding wire. This way you can remove the top of the stove by raising it and sliding it to the left. I then removed the screws from the burner sockets and removed the harness. I then installed the new harness in reverse. As with the grounding wire and the wire connections on the reastats.
The only problem I incurred was that the steel bracket that hold the burner socket to the stove top was to long. The burner would not plug into the socket far enough to make a good connection. So I replaced them with the ones in "The Newer Style Plug-in Block Kit". ( I had purchased these not realizing that the sockets came on the wire harness). So it all worked out in the end. Overall It is a pretty simple job with one philips head screw driver and a little muscle to move the stove.
All Instructions for the FEP330BL0
1-15 of 339