Models > FEP310BW1 > Instructions

FEP310BW1 Roper Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for FEP310BW1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FEP310BW1
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The old switch broke off.

  • Customer: Bruce from Pasadena MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Removed two screws that held the unit in then pulled out a few inches so I could see where the 5 wires were. Then I replaced one at a time till done. then replaced the retaining screws.

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Burner was not heating up

  • Customer: Gary from Hellertown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Puled out the electical plug . Removed the back panel. Pulled off the switch knob. Removed the 2 screws holding the switch. Took the wires off of the old switch and placed them on the corespondig connector on the new switch. Put everything back in reverse order.

One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot

  • Customer: Phillip from Pekin IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

Burnt out broiler element

  • Customer: Starla from Vashon WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off power to range because I was scared. Unscrewed broiler element, pulled part forward and pulled off wires that were attached to the back, attached wires to new element, pushed it back in place, screwed it back on to oven. Cooked my bruchette!

Electric burner on stove would not work

  • Customer: Ronald from Fresno CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

1 had 2 large burners not working at all, and was cooking everything on the 2 smaller burners

  • Customer: Mary from Lebanon CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
It was so simple to repair - all I had to do was slide the older burners out and slide the new ones in - it took less than 10 min to complete the whole job! No tools used at all.

Burner was arching or not heating up.

  • Customer: Scott from Pleasant Valley CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions on removing the existing burner, recepticle, and section of wire. Then followed same instructions for reinstalling above new parts. The instructions were simple and straight forward. The only gluich was that I had to drill out the rivets holding in the old hold down clips. I drilled these out with an 1/8" bit on the burner side off the opening.

Baking Element burned out.

  • Customer: Rick from Pineville MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Turn Off Breaker.

Removed oven racks....

Removed two screws holding element in place...

Disconnect spade lug connectors from old heating element.

Connected spade lug connectors to new heating element.

Reinstall 2 screws holding element.....

Replace oven racks.

Turn Breakers back On.

Done 10 Min. Install

Heating Element broken

  • Customer: PATRICIA from VACAVILLE CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
My husband wanted me to call a repair man but I had read online how easy it was. I received my element in one day from Fresno, CA and followed the instructions given by others on line. I couldn't believe how easy it was. The most difficult was removing the connectors because they were stuck. I used needle nose pliers as someone suggested. Saved the cost of a repair man.

bottom heating element was bad

  • Customer: glenn from greenwood DE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Two screws held the element in place, removed the screws and pulled the piece out.
Back of piece has two wires attached, unplug them then attach the new element and replace the two screws to remount.
First make sure the breaker to the range is turned off before starting the repair.

Oven wouldn't heat

  • Customer: Michael from Wichita KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered element and received it the next day. Removed two screws that holds element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 or 4 inches and disconnected the two wires. Put new element in connected the wires mounted element in place with the two screws. Now works great!

did not heat properly

  • Customer: Ronald from Powhatan VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires, Removed the old element and installed the new one

Incoming power hot lead broke loose from mounting block and short-circuited

  • Customer: Heather from Pittsburgh PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I turned off power at the service panel. Then, I pulled out the range and tried to remove the access panel. The screw which held the black lead from the incoming power to the range wiring terminal had broken loose from the mounting block. It had welded itself to the panel, so I had to pry it loose. I tried to reattach it to the mounting block, but the block was cracked.

I turned on power at the service panel and used my digital multimeter to test the AC voltage of the receptacle to make sure it fell within the correct limits.

When the new mounting block and power cord arrived, I removed the screw that held the broken mounting block to the back of the range. Then, I used a screwdriver to remove the leads that attached the old power cord to the broken mounting block and range wiring terminals. The screw and nuts which held the old black lead and range wiring terminal to the block were welded together. This was the most difficult part of the repair. I was able to back them off a little bit, but not enough to remove the range wiring terminal. While holding one end of the screw in the pliers, my Dad used the heavy duty cut off wheel on my Dremel tool to cut the screw in half and free the terminal.

Then, we reversed the process to attach the new wiring block to the back of the range, incoming power cord to wiring terminals and range wiring. We plugged it back in and had it working before my dinner party.

The drip bowls were all caked and corroded.

  • Customer: Terry from Mountain City TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
This wasn't a "repair", but I got an email asking for my story, so here it is. :-)

I followed the owner's manual instructions by pulling out the burner elements, lifting up the old drip bowls, setting in the new ones, replacing the elements.
All Instructions for the FEP310BW1
16-30 of 333