FEF366ECD Frigidaire Range - Instructions

1. Removed two screws, pulled out the element, voltage tested the element and determined it was an open circuit (bad element).
2. Ordered the part from partselect.com
3. Disconnected element, connected the new one, and screwed it back in.

Shut off circuit breaker to stove and collected the tool from the basement. Turned on flashlight. Unscrewed the two hex nuts from the old element/back of the oven. Slid the old element prongs out of the back, exposing the connecting wires. Pulled the connecting wires off of the old element, carefully, so that the connections wouldn't come off of the wires. Threw the old element pieces in the garbage. Connected the new element to the connecting wires and re-fastened the hex nuts. My husband had wanted to call the repair man, but it didn't look too difficult, so I decided to try it on my own. Boy was he surprised when I fixed it, and for a fraction of the cost of hiring a repairman! Ladies, we can do this ourselves!!! :) Thank you for being there for us to order our part from, Parts Select, we had our new part in less than 24 hours, so the shipping was blazing fast!!! Keep up the good work!!! :)

removed screws pulled element out. removed wire from old element replaced with new element.very easy

My husband called our one and only parts store and got a price of $50 for the element. I used a search engine over the weekend and found the same thing for almost half the price. I received an email that said the element was shipped out on Monday, and it arrived on Tuesday afternoon! So my husband removed the two screws that hold the element in place, then replaced it with a new one. I am back in business for the holidays!

The element is attached to the back of the oven by two small screws. After unplugging the electricity to the oven and removing the attaching screws with a socket set (6.5 mm), you are able to pull the element several inches out from the back of the oven. Doing so exposes where the wiring is connected to the ends of the baking element. The element disconnects from the wiring with a light tug, after which the new element can be connected. I leave the "real" fix-it jobs to the pros ... this was a simple repair that anyone can do.

We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!

FIRST THING! UNPLUG THE OVEN! After I made sure there was no residual charge left in the oven I took a 1/4 inch socket wrench and attached to an interchangable screwdriver and crawled in the oven. I removed both screws and gently pulled on the element until the wire leads came thru. I then unplugged the leads and replaced the element with the new element and plugged them in. Then gently slipped the leads back into the oven and replaced the screws. Turned on the oven and WHA LA!! We had our oven back and running and had chocolate chips cookies in a flash! It was fast and easy and saved me a fortune!

Cut off power at fuse panel. pulled stove out from wall went behind stove removed back panels in area of sensor that I could see from the front side, inside oven. Located sensor from rear & unpluged senser from wiring bundle reached inside oven & removed screws from sensor. Pulled sensor out & threaded wire through hole. Took old & new sensors to bench in shop. Plug on new not the same as old. Had to change plug Cut and stripped wires. Wire is very small, need to use a good stripper. Twisted wire together & soldered connection, used shrink wrap to insulate wire. Took part inside and reinstalled in reverse order. Used 1/4 inch nutdriver on total job start to finish.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the different sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.

First thing I did was to turn off the range supply breaker. There were two screws, one on each side, that held the lower element into place. I used a phillips head screw driver to remove the screws and pulled the element out for access to the wires. I pulled the connectors off of the element and remove it from the oven. I them put the new element into place, attached the wires, replaced the screws and turned on the breaker. It was an easy fix.

Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.

Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range