FEC30S6ABC Frigidaire Cooktop - Instructions

VERY IMPORTANT! kill the circuit breaker to the unit and/or unplugged it! 2 screws hold the ceramic glass top to the lip @ top of oven--remove them and the top can be lifted up to expose all the burner elements and wiring--remove the 2 end screws that hold the retainer bracket for the burners - then remove the 2 screws that hold the burner in question to the bracket-there's also a retainer pin that needs a bit of fussing with to completely free the burner--once totally free remove the wires from the bad unit to the good unit exactly as they are situated --install new unit onto bracket with screws and bracket back to its original location on the ceramic top-put top back down and replace both anchor screws--initiate power back to unit and yeeehahh--You just saved yourself lottsa money from repair bills!!!

FIRST I UNPLUGGED THE GLASS TOP RANGE. While locating the part on the PartSelect diagram I was also able to determine how to access the burned out element. It was very simply to remove three phillips head screws in the front top( above the oven)area of the range, slide the topof the range forwardand lift it up, remove one screw holding the metal bar under the element, replace the element by usinga a pair of pliers to remove the electrical wires and then reversed the process. I saved a tidy amount doing the job myself.

killed the 50 amp power. removed 3 screws from above oven door slid out cook top, dropped brace holding 2 front burners. The connector corroded off had to look for a high heat connector to connect to the element, after that just screwed everything back together.

All of a sudden, one element in our glasstop range would not light and heat up. My wife and I were not sure what to do. Looked it up on the internet, found that you can do it yourself as others desribed the process of accessing the elements below. We decided to do that. It takes two people as one is holding up the glass because it opens like a car hood. While we diagnosed it was not a wiring issue (found a burnt wire, rewired the burnt wires (after mending the non burnt portions) to another element. The element that was not working before still did not turn on. Decided to purchase an element. While many online places sell elements, PartSelect actually allowed searching by brand with exploded views of the range to select the exact parts. This lessened the worry of purchasing a wrong element. When the part came (almost one day later), the repair was less than five minutes. Thank you PartSelect. I feel I saved a lot of money and aggravation.

I went all the way around the unit and removed screws holding top of unit in place. Removed knobs holding front panel in place. Remove control panel. top should come off. Remove screws attaching element top and metal frame. Undo bracket and remove element. Disconnect wires. Remember where they were attached.
Replace element and reverse steps.

no problem slightly different shape than original but labels for wires matched up mounting screws aligned perfectly works great

Disconnected power. Removed hold down fasteners for stove top. Fortunately, I did not flue down or use the double back tape to secure stovetop to counter. If this adhesive were used, it is possible I would have had great difficulty in removing range. I did not disconnect the wiring, but turned the range top over to access the cover. I removed the cover and easily removed the failed burner and installed the new ones. I had to pull 4 wires from the terminal strip and reattach them. The hold down strap for the burner was reinstalled. Range top turned back over and fastened down. Back in service.

Followed the instruction printed on the page, while ordering the part.

Don't be put off when you first get the new switch. It's not an exact duplicate to the one your replacing. You will notice that the new switch has 5 electrical connectors and you'll see 6 wires on the old one. start by removing the L1 wire(s) off the old switch, you will see that it actually has 2 wires connected to the same connector. Now connect to the L1 position on the new switch. Continuie with taking one wire at a time off the old switch and connect to the corresponding connector on the new switch (all the connectors are coded the same, ex. L1, P, etc....) Once complete the switch and burner worked perfectly

repair it

First you must disconnect power by throwing the circuit breaker off.You need to pull knobs from cook top. check underside to see if it is mounted to counter top, mine was not. Then raise the cook top and support bottom with 2x2's. Mine had three main screws in front, one on the sides and two in the back. The other thing you need to do is loosen the metal plates that have two screws on each plate. Three plates in front, two on each side and three in back. Once these are loosen, you can lift the stove top up to reveal the indicator lights. I found it was easier to support the top with a pan or something while working on it. Replace your indicator light and put everything back together.. It really wasn't to bad.

Turn power off to the stove! Opened the oven door, removed 3 screws holding the top down. Lift the top up. (Take a picture first of where exactly the wires go and where the prongs go) I unplugged the 4 wires from the element. Use a screwdriver and pry the prongs through the metal brace. Remove the prongs from the old element because they are a separate part and don't come with a new element. If you wish to continue to use the stove, tape the ends of the wires up, because they will be hot when you turn any other burner on.

took out 2 screws and disconnected wires .

Followed the procedure used in replacing the previous switches. The part came without a bushing needed to adjust the height of the knob sticking above the surface of controls. Fortunately, I could use the bushing from the previous part. I suggest a bushing should be included with this part.

1. I cut off the circuit breaker for the stovetop and removed items on the shelf directly under the cooktop
2. I looked under the cooktop and unscrewed the two screws holding the panel under the switch controls and removed the panel.
3. I pulled the knob up off of the bad cooktop control switch.
4 I unscrewed the two screws holding the bad cooktop switch control.
5. I looked under the cooktop and pulled the bad cooktop control switch down so I could remove the wires connected to it.
6. I got the new switch control and put the wires from the old control onto the new control, one-at-a-time, to the same labelled connection on the new control, which was a somewhat different arrangement.
7. I worked the new control up through the wires and put the knob shaft up through the hole in the cooktop.
8. Back on top, I installed the two screws I had removed from the old switch control to hold the new control to the stovetop.
9. I reinstalled the control knob onto the control.
10. I turned back on the circuit breaker for the stovetop and checked out the operation of the new switch control. It worked fine.
11. I turned the circuit breaker back off and reinstalled the panel cover under the switch controls, with the two screws I had removed earlier.
12. I turned back on the circuit breaker for the stovetop.
13 I put the items back onto the shelf directly under the stovetop.
14. Job done!