Burner would consistantly go to high no matter where the dial was positioned.
First I unplugged the stove.Removed the upper control panel back (10 phillips screws). Removed the plastic dial( pulls straight off). Removed the 2 screws behind the dial that is holding the switch in the control panel. Took one wire at a time off the old switch and put them on the new switch according to each electrical spade marking. L1, L2, H1, H2 and P. Installed the new switch in the control panel securing it with the 2 screws. Installed the dial, installed the upper back panel using the old screws. Plugged the stove back in and tested it. Note: My new switches shaft was 1/8 of an inch longer so it does put the dial a little further away from the control panel. Wife says: It's OK, don't worry about it.
was more of a job of splicing wires together than anything else. Loved the heat shrink electrical tubing to put over the wires for insulation. used a hair dryer. must buy more of that amazing stuff
I simply removed the old drip pans and inserted the new ones which matched and fit perfectly. I'm glad I found you on line. Your service was fast and the whole transaction was easy!! Thanks.
Block terminal burnt out, hot plate not working, needed to replace the terminal block
This should take approx 15-30 mins. It took me 1.5 hours as I pushed the terminals into the wrong end of the block. It's very difficult to get them out when you do that... However, there are no easy instructions on the block or in the instructions to tell you which end to push the terminals into!!! So, with a 50:50 chance of getting it right, I got it wrong. I think most people would need to buy a new part if they do this. It would be very much easier if the block, had an arrow that simply said IN here so that this type of simple mistake is less easy to do... If you get that right, the fix is quite and straight forward. Good luck.
Pulled the heating elements out took the bowels out that didn’t fit, threw them away and replaced them with the perfectly fitting bowels from this site and replaced the heating elements.
The range, (1988 Tappan) was givin to the church by one of our members. While using it, --after a period of time-- the wire burnt off to one of the burners. Since the couple gave us a brand new top for the stove that was still in the box, we decided to fix the stove up. Now, with new wiring to all four burners, new shiney drip pans and,,,,a new top, we have a very new looking stove for in our church kitchen. The parts I ordered from PartsSelect, came in just a few days of placing the order, This is one site that I have wrote down in my address book for any future parts to items we may need.
One of the switches on my stove had quit exept for High. every level on the switch was high.
First I removed the 2 screws that held it in place. Then I took te screws out of the backguard cover and pulled it down so that I would get to it. Then I unplugged the wires, and replugged them on the new switch, then screwed it back in to the range, then put all the screws back in backguard cover, and plugged the range back up and put it back in its place. It was real easy.
I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing. Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening. The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block. I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight. The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions. Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.
Pretty easy installation; you lift the top plate up and snip the wires maybe four inches away from the burner. Leave more wire than you think you need; once you get into it you'll realize you need more wire length than you think.
Then strip the remaining ends, twist them together with the provided caps, and use the heat shrink to hold it together. Remove the old terminal, replace it with the new ones, and you're good to go!
Remember to check that the wires are tight in the cap before heat shrinking, though. I had to get more shrink wrap in order to finish.