Models > FDE336RES2 > Instructions

FDE336RES2 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for FDE336RES2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FDE336RES2
76-90 of 448
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Dryer kept eating clothes

  • Customer: Hua from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Took apart the dryer, definitely a two person job. Cleaned up a bag full of lint that collected in the dryer (can't believe it didn't start a fire!), removed the old glides and seals, sandpapered off the old adhesive, applied fresh adhesive, attached the glide and seals, waited for the adhesive to dry, reassembled the dryer. Now it's working like a charm!

Dryer leaving brown streaks on clothing

  • Customer: Michael from Snellville GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy and straight forward repair.

Unplug the dryer and move it to a location that offers some room to work.

Use flathead screw driver to pop the front side top of the dryer up then lift the top of the dryer up to expose the drum.

Use phillips head screw driver to remove the two screws from the access panel on the rear of the dryer. Reach into the access area and remove the drum belt from the tensioner assembly. It's spring loaded so watch your fingers.

Disconnect the wiring harness at the right front of the dryer.

Remove the two screws that secure the front of the dryer to the sides.

Remove the front panel of the dryer by pulling the panel forward then up and off the two tabs at the bottom.

The felt strips and glides (which are worn off if you are doing this repair) are glued to the front panel of the dryer and now need to be removed. Removing the old felt will take some time and is the most difficult part of this whole repair.

Use some goof off or similar solvent adhesive remover to ease the removal of the felt. A putty knife will likely be helpful too.

Once the felt is off, wipe off any excess solvent and make sure the area to be re-felted is clean and dry.

Apply small serpentine bead of provided adhesive to the felt strips and glue the new strips on to the dryer. There is more than enough glue in the tube provided to get the job done. After applying felt strips, let them sit for about 30 minutes before reassembling dryer. You may want to use some light duty clamps to hold the felt in place while the glue sets but that's probably not necessary since the glue sets rapidly. Follow the directions on the glue tube.

Reassemble in opposite order.

Take the opportunity to vacuum out your dryer and give it a good inspection while you have it cracked open. You just might find those socks that disappeared.

Here are some "while your at it" ideas:

Replace both upper and lower felt strips.
Vacuum out entire dryer cabinet and the foam seal on the air box.
Replace drive belt.
Replace light bulb.
Replace bearing ball on rear of drum or apply some lubricant to the bearing.

I'm not saying do all these things, I'm just suggesting these items as things to consider based on the age and usage of your dryer.

This is an easy one person repair that requires no experience or special tools. Don't pay the repair man. Do it yourself.

Clothes getting stuck and burned

  • Customer: Eric from Millbury MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Follwed all the other comments real easy

Clothing was getting caught between drum and front panel

  • Customer: Michael from Cumberland RI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First unplugged the dryer took off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Scraped and cleaned old drum glide and lower basket seal. glued new seals on replaced lightbulb while I had it apart then reassembled. It was an easy job and the wife is now happy again.. Thanks to Partselect.
Mike

Brown stains on clothes.

  • Customer: John from Palm Desert CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Followed your website repair guides and the great belt replacement video.

Other parts used were; front lower basket seal, dryer seal, and dryer drum belt.

Had no problems except for keeping the drum belt idler pulley tension spring in place. Used the rear access panel to solve this issue.

John H.
Palm Desert, CA

dryer made loud scrape noise and quit drying

  • Customer: Curtis from Littleton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I took the repair video in with me and set my lap-top on top of the washer.
My dryer did not match the type on the video exactly (mine has the controls in the front instead of on top and in the back) - however - the parts replacement for the rear drum bearing itself was the same.
After getting the front apart and releasing the drum the rest was pretty easy. Didn't really need instructions for the heating element - that was an obvious change out.
The tips on the video changing the rear drum assembly were very helpful.
Just watch the vid and do it! It took me exactly two hours since I was also changing out the heating element and I did it on a Friday night while having a couple tasty beers.
One tip I would give is the old grease in the bearing is very messy and I got it all over my shirt and pants - and when changing that stuff out don't lean on the front of the frame - I did and bent it out of whack a bit.
The dryer runs like new now that it's done!

howling dryer. Wolves in the area would howl back!

  • Customer: David A from Deer River MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Waited only 2 days for part. That was with REGULAR delivery. It usually takes weeks to get out to REMOTE northern Minnesota.
Unstacked the dryer took off the top. 2 screws to open front. Pulled 3 drum mounting screws. Pulled the drum. Removed the pivot. Cleaned (blowed and vacuumed everywhere). Cleaned the pivot receptacle. Relubed the pivot with high temp lube. Removed 2 motor assy mounting screws. Screwed off the squirrel cage. Swapped the motor. Remounted new motor assy. Looped belt over drum. Remounted the drum. Closed the front. Closed the top. Opened the belt access plate on the rear. Looped new belt over the tensioner. Closed the access plate. Restacked dryer. Turned it on. Sounds like brand new. Less than 2 hours. Saved more than $800. More than I generally make an hour! Actually I saved a lot more than $800 because I probably would have had to buy both the washer and dryer stack so it could have been around $2500.
Everything I ordered arrived in 1 box and all parts are right!
Now in my spare time I need to replace the bearings on the old motor and I'll be ready for the next time, in another 10 years!

female part of door clasp broke

  • Customer: Tammy from St. Peters MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
All I did was push the new part into the machine! So easy!

Missing power cable cover/damaged terminal block

  • Customer: Glenn from Universal City TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
While changing power cable from 3 prong to 4 prong connection on a recently purchased used dryer I found the terminal block partially melted due to improper connectors which overheated. The bracket and cover were also missing which presented a shock hazard for anyone touching the exposed connections and there was no way to connect the strain relief. I disconnected the old 3 prong cable, removed the old terminal block, installed the new terminal block (required opening the dryer top for access), threaded power cable through bracket and fastened with strain relief leaving loose, attached the neutral/ground wires to middle terminal connection point, red to red wire in terminal block and black to black wire also in terminal block and tightened bracket and added cover.

Lound noise inside dryer

  • Customer: Joseph from little Egg Harbour NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.

Dryer squeak during tumbling, worn front drum glide

  • Customer: Robert from Portsmouth RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

Heating Element broke

  • Customer: brad from oklahoma city OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
much as described earler,
1. Removed 2 screws on back at the top and 2 on the chrome vent to access the belt and pulley.
2. Disconnected spring from pulley assembly and removed belt from pulley and motor.
3. Removed top of dryer.
4. Removed control panel.
5. Removed screws from inside dryer tumbler (all of them)
6. Removed bottom kick plate.
7. Removed 2 screws from inside panel (near tumbler) and 2 screws from bottom of front panel. Removed front panel.
8. Removed tumbler housing.
9. Removed heating element cover.
10. Removed heating element pan. (wires first)
11. Removed "bearing" by lifing it up (snaps in)
12. Cleaned and regreased "bearing"
Assembled in reverse order.

Latch on dryer no longer worked

  • Customer: chris from dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

squeaking dryer driving insane

  • Customer: greg from great cacapon WV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
First removed the top of the dryer, then the front of the dryer. Took the plate off the back left of the dryer to disengage the belt off the pulley.
Took the three screws out that hold the drum in place, of course the third screw stripped and had to use a screw remover, which didn't work, but the adjustable pliers did so then lifted the drum out of the plastic reservoir in which the bearing laid. Next unscrewed the two bolts holding the plastic reservoir which also loosened the small metal piece on the back of the dryer where a small bearing is located. Put the new parts in, but instead of putting the larger bearing that fits in the plastic reservoir, I decided to put it on the drum first and guide it into the reservoir all at once, this worked well . Prior to that I put the new plastic piece on the inside and taped it there while holding that piece put the small metal piece with the small bearing on the back of the dryer. I'm sure it is alot easier with two people doing this part, but it worked and I didn't lose the small bearing. Next put the front of the dryer back on and then put the belt back on the pulley, then the top.
It definitely helped immensely to read how someone did this, just follow the instructions given and there you go, no more annoying squeak and also a feeling of accomplishment and thanks to the person who wrote the story on how to do this job, appreciate it.

Loud squealing

  • Customer: John from Avis PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)
All Instructions for the FDE336RES2
76-90 of 448