FDB636GFS0 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove the bottom cover plate. Disconnect the water inlet and black rubber hose. Remove 2 mounting screws. Pull out electrical connector. Reverse order. Be sure to get the brass inlet connector really tight so it won't leak. I did the final tightning after the part is mounted. Not a bad repair at all. The only problem was that it leaked in the first place and messed up my subfloor and laminate flooring.

Took the roller out of the package, snapped it into place. Less than 15 seconds. Works good as new.

I have had to keep replacing the spray arm on the bottom of my dishwasher which takes like 2 seconds to do.. First you open the dishwasher and than pull the bottom basked forward and reach down and pull the spray arm up and pop the bottom of the spray arm off and put it on the new spray arm and slip it back into the dishwasher over the thing that makes it spin around.. but the tricky part is and I didn't know this and this is why my dishwasher spray arm kept falling over and melting on the heating element.. you have to turn it till it clicks in.. and your done..

I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.

1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the vavle assembly.
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection from the solinoid.
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solinoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve.
8. Turned on the water, washed some dishes.

It was amazing, the items were shipped within days of placing the order. They arrived ready for installation. My husband had the new racks in place in 10 minutes. He removed the wheels from the old racks and placed the wheel on the new racks which required no tools. Then we slid the new racks into place, a perfect fit!

First I removed and replaced the gasket around the tub. It didn't require any tools and took about 2 minutes to complete. I didn't really need to replace the gasket but it came with the latch kit so I went ahead and replaced it anyway. Than I removed only the top door panel (6 screws) and supported it while I removed the broken latch (2 Torx screws). I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the wires off the old latch (keeping track of where each wire came from) then plugged the wires onto the new latch and screwed it back to the door. Put the door panel back in place with the 6 screws I had removed earlier and I was done. it all took about 15 minutes and the wife is so glade she is not doing dishes by hand anymore that she left me alone for the rest of the night.

The tub perforations at the heater leaked and water dripped onto the fastening nuts and the electrical connections. I ordered a new heater element and it did not have the necessary nuts to fasten it to the tub. I had to go back and order them separately. The original nuts are very unique and cannot be substituted for.The manufacturer should send them with every heater element because this leaking problem is very prevalent on these machines.

Reading the instructions posted, I realized that I only needed to remove the two lower screws on the inside of the dishwasher door. The lower front panel then came off easily. I unplugged the power to the dishwasher. I then removed the six screws holding the dispenser in place, and when loose I unplugged the two wires (I used a flat blade screwdrive to pry them a bit then they slid off -- note the red one was inside, lighter one outside). I put the new part in, put in all but the left screw with the hook. I then plugged the wires in, and fastened the left screw with the hook positioned around the wires. I put the panel back on, fastenet the two screws that hold it in, and plugged the dishwasher back in. It's working beautifully. All in all it was about 20 minutes.

I looked under and found that 2 brass nuts that secured the heater element through the base housing of the dishwasher has split down each side of the nut and no longer was tight enough to keep water from leaking around either end of the heater element. I powered down the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and then reached under the dishwasher and pulled away the 2 wires that were attached to each side of the heater element. I removed the two nuts and replaced them with the parts I ordered from partselect.com. I then put the appropriate wires back at the end of the heater element and ran the dishwasher to check for leaks. No leaks... it was fixed.

It required no tools. It took less than one minute to connect the spray arm to the bottom of the unit. Our dishwasher is working perfectly now.

It was simple, I do have extended warranty from AHS, but they charge me a trip charge of $55 per repair, and then all parts and labor is covered. But when I checked with Parts Select the parts costed me about $10, so I decided to do it myself.

While I was at it, I also bought other parts and updated my dishwasher with some upgrades.

Good place to buy any parts from, they are very helpful, if you do not know your parts. They even had drawings of my dishwasher, and this actually helped me find what kind of other parts I could buy to upgrade my dishwasher.

Parts select is on my favorites list and pass it on to all my friends.

Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

First, I had to remove a small metal paper clip that somehow ended up in the bottom of the dishwasher, which jammed the spray arm. The spray arm wasn't able to spin around, so it melted onto the heater. I removed the spray arm, and replaced it with the new one.

First I just rolled out the lower rack assembly, and rolled the new one in. Then I moved onto the upper rack. I started by sliding the off the rail cap lock at the end of the rack. The entire cap does not come off, just the bottom slotted piece. This is done by simply edging out the bottom of the cap, toward the front of the dishwasher, until the bottom slides out of the slot, and lifts out of the way. Then the upper rack was released to roll freely out of the support rail. The next step was to pry off the top of the water diverter. Next was to unscrew the wand assembly from the water diverter that is attached to the upper rack assembly. There are no water lines attached to this, it just directs the jetted water from the top of the dishwasher. Then simply pop the mount from the upper rack. And reassemble the way it came off. This was a simple fix to make the dishwasher like new inside again. The racks purchased from Parts Select fit perfectly with no modifications or trouble. This operation took less than ten minutes. Anyone should be able to handle this operation. If you are afraid to disassemble the upper rack, take a few digital pictures to refer to, and delete them later. This is a tip that has been priceless to me in the past on other projects. Thank you Parts Select.