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FDB1050REC2 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for FDB1050REC2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FDB1050REC2
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high limit thermostat was open

  • Customer: Robert from Huntingtown MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

Heater High-Limit Thermostat Failed

  • Customer: Scott from Hermitage TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.

The dishwasher would not spray to middle or top rack and detergent would not dissolve.

  • Customer: Kurt from Corrales NM
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled off the cover inside the sump area. Then pulled the washer out from the counter and turned it on it's side. I took the old pump out and crimped a new wire harness on. It was a simple repair for a DIYer.

Before pushing the dishwasher back, I tested the dishwasher with it pulled out from the counter. It was easy to see water was flowing forcefully through the upper tubing now. Success.

Troubleshooting this faulty pump was harder because it was functioning, but it did not have enough force to push the water up to the top rack. I convinced myself that the pump was the problem by plugging the lower rack with a cork. The spray was still too weak to rotate the upper spray arm. I also ruled out the timer with a stop watch. This unit alternates upper and lower racks by pausing either 0.6 seconds or 3 seconds. This controlls a ball that diverts water to the upper or lower rack.

Dishwasher was leaking at the lower left side of the door.

  • Customer: John from Hummelstown PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Probably the easiest repair job that you could encounter. I removed the old gasket from the door frame. Cut the new gasket to length and pushed it into the door frame.

Water leak solved...

Dishwasher was growing mold on inside lid door. Also the glasses were not looking clean. Appeared as if they were not getting rinsed well enough.

  • Customer: Matt from Bowling Green OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the lower front cover of the dishwasher to get under the dishwasher. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then opened the dishwasher door and removed the old element and replaced it with the new element. I closed the dishwasher door and reconnected the two wires making sure that I put the proper wire on the proper post. I then put the two screws back on the element to hold it in place Next I replaed the cover on the front and tested the dishwasher for heat by running it empty.

Drain hose was missing

  • Customer: John from Carthage MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
My friend bought a used dishwasher at a garage sale, the previous owner had thrown away the drain hose because it was "nasty" they said....remember it could have been cleaned. When I went to install it, I removed the old washer, and discovered that the old hose would not fit on the replacement dishwasher. I went to the local repair shop, armed with the model and serial #'s. they searched and searched their books and could not find the hose part number. they said "good luck" when I left...I went home and looked up the model on your web site, ordered the hose, and in 3 days had the dishwasher installed and running in about 30 minutes...thanks for prompt shipping.. I couldn't believe it arrived so soon...Mowerman

Frigidaire dishwasher main pump failed

  • Customer: jeff from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
10 year old stainless steel faced Frigidaire dishwasher. The motor assembly part fixed my problem. This was the second part required to fix the dishwasher. A week prior I replaced the inlet water solenoid switch to correct the "no water filling issue". I think that the main motor assembly pump ran dry and caused it to fail, so it is critical NEVER to run this part dry. The repair was relatively easy, I will say it would be great to have some instructions with the parts, however the kit came with everything. you essentially slide the dishwasher out disconnecting power and water ( i left the discharge connected since the service loop was long). you disconnect all the main pump electrical and water connections, labeling made it easy. you take the motor assembly out thru the inside tub. Once the internal sump assembly is out you can clean the sump and remove the old pump. Pull it out straight and dont wiggle it. The kit comes with new O rings that i put a light smear of vaseline on for a good seal. You reinstall the sump and make connections. Since my dishwasher is old, the original Molex power connector to the motor is different on the new motor. The kit comes with a new style connector, what you have to do is snip off your old connector and the kit comes with a new connector with crimps on the ends, you slide the provided heat shrink over each wire and then crimp your dishwashers wires to the new connector. I then used a butane lighter to shrink the heat shrink. The heat shrink is not absolutely necessary since the crimps are insulated, but since the kit came with two perfectly cut pieces of heat shrink I felt obligated to use it. This sounds all complicated but it really wasn't and much cheaper than a new dishwasher! Interestingly and this only maybe in my case but the dishwasher seems to clean better than it ever did.. for now we are not pre-rinsing!

Dishwasher leaking

  • Customer: matthew from west river MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

LOCK DOWN ON STEM STRIPPED

  • Customer: Ronnie from Elberfeld IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVE 3 SCREWS FROM STEM ASSEMBLY. SWAPPED THE OLD FOR THE NEW, REPLACE SCREWS. INSTALLED AND LOCK LOWER WASH WAND. FIXED IN 5 MIN. GREAT SERVICE AND PRICES. MY WIFE THANKS YOU. (HAD TO HAND WASH DISHES FOR A FEW DAYS)
THANKS

old valve leaked

  • Customer: Ron from Billings MT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I will make a few additions to the other instructions, which are great and let me see that the job was doable. To the tools needed, add pipe tape.
1. Shut off water supply.
2. Removed inlet water hose where it connects to the valve assembly. (This was a pain on my machine—too little room for the wrench, you may have a better tool—but I did get it out, slowly.)
3. Removed the two bracket screws holding the assembly to the frame, and detached the electrical connection (Look for your red and blue wires on the connector, my red was to the top of the solenoid, and reattach with the same grounding) from the solenoid. (This step was a great bit of information; It allowed me to see that I could do the following steps with ease, That is, the unit dropped down where you could work on it.)
4. Removed the inlet hose adapter connection from old valve and installed into new valve.
5. Attached electrical connection to new valve solenoid.
6. Remounted assembly to the frame.
7. Re-attached the inlet water hose to the hose adapter connection on the valve. (I had to take off the L shaped connector at the bottom of the old valve and add it to the new valve. This was an extra step that required two bigger wrenches to hold the old assembly and unscrew the L joint. I just needed the extra leverage to get the old off and the new on. I am referring to the copper connection that connects to you water supply)
(8) The new valve had a slightly different configuration than my old. The rack it sits on was about an inch or so longer. This meant that I had to readjust my copper pipe just a bit to match up when it was reassembled. No big deal, I had lots of pipe length to work with. Actually, moving the valve a bit further back made more room for the wrench to work—very happy about that. In addition, the hose attachment went from a left exit to a back exit. Doesn’t seem to matter.
(9) Turned on the water, washed some dishes. (Took me about an hour, mostly because of the difficulty with the wrenches. Otherwise—piece of cake)

heater element burnt out (black spot)

  • Customer: Wendell from Madisonville TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 11 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Make sure power is off. Remove metal toe kick with fillips screw driver. Reach under dishwasher with 1/2" open
end wrench and completly unscrew brass nuts from element ends. Then open door and pull element ends straight up. Note: As you pull element ends up (inside washer) you are also forcing the element end wire connectors to come off underneath. The electricial connectors are very hard to get off any other way.

Wendell Hensley
Madiso0nville, Tn

Lower spray arm heat shield melted

  • Customer: Ashley from Littleton CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Electrolux part number PS1524955, lower spray arm.

Problem. Dishwasher was spraying water out the bottom of the door. The spray arm was damaged when the heat shield overheated, causing the shield to contact the heating element. This resulted in the spray arm melting, causing water to be sprayed out the small gap between the dishwasher door, and the dishwasher bottom pan.

Repair
Lower spray arm is easy to remove. Release the arm clips at the center of the spray arm. When the clips are released, lift and remove damaged arm. Replacement arm is attached by pressing down on the center of the spray arm. The new unit has smaller heat shields so it will be less prone to overheating.

Thanks for the fast shipping. Part was recieved in a few days. For just a few dollars, the handwashing is over.

Heating coil went bad

  • Customer: Ryan from Alton IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I had to remove the dishwasher from under the counter. I then had to unscrew (from the bottom) the bolts that held the heater in place. After that I ran into a problem of disconnecting the wires that ran to the heater. I did not want to "force" the wires off and I was unsure how exactly to remove them. I figured out that they are really hard to pull off but there are no clips holding them on, so you won't break anything off. Once I got the wires off, I was able to screw the nuts onto the new heater and put it back into place.

No water to dish washer

  • Customer: steve from virginia beach VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
After figuring out the problem wasn't the water inlet switch, I replaced the switch assembly for the water level float. Cut off supply water to dishwasher, removed the 2 screws holding switch assembly, and installed new switch. 15 minutes, very easy job.

Diswasher would not drain with a staticky sound.

  • Customer: Brenda from Orem UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled the dishwasher out and laid it on its back. From under the dishwasher I unscrewed three screws and freed the drain pump from some sort of frame. Then with the pliers loosed the orange clamp that held the black hose to it. Then unscrewed the clamp that held the white hose to it. Then pulled out the purple and white fuse wires. These wires were very tight I used pliers to get them off. The pump was free. Be sure to have a bowl to catch all the water. There wasn't a lot but it stinks. Then put it all together the way I took it apart. The dishwasher works perfectly now.
All Instructions for the FDB1050REC2
16-30 of 414