Models > FDB1050REC2 > Instructions

FDB1050REC2 Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for FDB1050REC2 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the FDB1050REC2
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Dishwasher was leaking

  • Customer: Nejla from Chicago IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 28 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!

Water in dishwasher did not heat up. Dishes came out dirty and greasy. Some fungus started to grow in dishwasher.

  • Customer: Ewout from Bozeman MT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 25 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.

Dishwasher wouldn't turn on - Wash Light Blinking

  • Customer: Daniel from Burgettstown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 24 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
The "Wash" light on my dishwasher began blinking continuously. I tried to reset it by turning off the power for 5 minutes. No change. I tried the "test" sequence per the dishwasher service booklet. No luck. Knowing it was either the control panel (expensive) or the door latch assembly (cheap), I first tested the door latch. With a multi-meter, I was able to determine that the door latch assembly was not functional. This gave the dishwasher a false signal that the door was always open.
To change door latch assembly:
1: Open dishwasher door and remove all the screws holding the front door faceplate on.
2: Remove the front door faceplate as well as the control panel.
3: Locate and remove the (2) torx screws holding the door latch assembly on.
4: Take note of the placement of the four electrical connectors on the old latch assembly. ( I simply removed them one by one from the old assembly and re-connected with the new one to eliminate confusion)
5. Once electrical connectors are completed, simply reverse the process.

Done! Very happy wife afterwards!

Dishwasher racks were chipped and starting to corrode.

  • Customer: David from Harrisburg PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
First I just rolled out the lower rack assembly, and rolled the new one in. Then I moved onto the upper rack. I started by sliding the off the rail cap lock at the end of the rack. The entire cap does not come off, just the bottom slotted piece. This is done by simply edging out the bottom of the cap, toward the front of the dishwasher, until the bottom slides out of the slot, and lifts out of the way. Then the upper rack was released to roll freely out of the support rail. The next step was to pry off the top of the water diverter. Next was to unscrew the wand assembly from the water diverter that is attached to the upper rack assembly. There are no water lines attached to this, it just directs the jetted water from the top of the dishwasher. Then simply pop the mount from the upper rack. And reassemble the way it came off. This was a simple fix to make the dishwasher like new inside again. The racks purchased from Parts Select fit perfectly with no modifications or trouble. This operation took less than ten minutes. Anyone should be able to handle this operation. If you are afraid to disassemble the upper rack, take a few digital pictures to refer to, and delete them later. This is a tip that has been priceless to me in the past on other projects. Thank you Parts Select.

The dishwasher would not spray to middle or top rack and detergent would not dissolve.

  • Customer: Kurt from Corrales NM
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled off the cover inside the sump area. Then pulled the washer out from the counter and turned it on it's side. I took the old pump out and crimped a new wire harness on. It was a simple repair for a DIYer.

Before pushing the dishwasher back, I tested the dishwasher with it pulled out from the counter. It was easy to see water was flowing forcefully through the upper tubing now. Success.

Troubleshooting this faulty pump was harder because it was functioning, but it did not have enough force to push the water up to the top rack. I convinced myself that the pump was the problem by plugging the lower rack with a cork. The spray was still too weak to rotate the upper spray arm. I also ruled out the timer with a stop watch. This unit alternates upper and lower racks by pausing either 0.6 seconds or 3 seconds. This controlls a ball that diverts water to the upper or lower rack.

No water to dishwasher on any cycle

  • Customer: David from Las Cruces NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dishwasher, pulled it out. Unclamped hose and unscrewed water source to inlet valve, removed wiring harness, unscrewed bracket and reinstalled new valve. Now have a functioning dishwasher.

Dishwasher door practically fell open

  • Customer: Daniel from Fremont NE
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
All I had to do was replace the spring and retainer on the side of the dishwasher which amounted to pulling it out far enough to reach the eyelet that the hook went into and then stretching it to the retainer attached on the other end. I really like partselect, I have done some things in the past and they are very helpful on the site and on the phone and I would recommend them to anyone and I would not normally do that unless it has been an excellent experience.

high limit thermostat was open

  • Customer: Robert from Huntingtown MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Disconnected power to the unit at the circuit breaker. Removed the bottom panel of the dishwasher. Used a stubby Phillip screwdriver to remove the single retaining screw holding the high limit thermostat against the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Not only was the thermostat burned out, one of it's electrical connectors was also destroyed. Removed the tape holding the cable bundle together so that I could work on the quick disconnect plug outside of the unit. One end of the quick disconnect plug was completely burned through and needed to be replaced. After doing the necessary electrical repairs and assembling the new thermostat into position I applied power and everything worked fine. It helped having a picture on your website that I could use to identify the correct replacement part.

Dishwasher leaking

  • Customer: matthew from west river MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Thought the problem was a faulty door gasket (there was a gap in the middle of it) so I ordered new(new one had a gap also) replaced it anyway - maybe it was worn out? Still leaked! Had to sit and stare at it and cycle it through. finally realized the spray arm had a hole in the end that was spraying directly into the gap in the door gasket. Hot glued the hole and it stopped so I bought a new spray arm - no leaky!

Leaking from the bottom of the door

  • Customer: beth from green bay WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
With the door wide open and lower dishtray out, I pulled the old gasket out of its channel. I cleaned the channel with a rag and replaced it with the new gasket. It needed to be trimmed about an inch in order to get the door to close properly. Took me about 5 minutes. Then I removed the old bottom door gasket. Just grasped the plastic edge showing while the door is completely open. Pull outward with fingers moving toward the heating element. Cleaned this area also. Took the new gasket with notch on the right hand side of the dishwasher and pushed it into place. If you get down and look closely, you can see where the notch hooks up. The rest of the piece just slides in after that. Hasn't leaked since! No leaks AND no service call fee. Parts came super fast! So glad I found this website. I'm a housewife, you can do this!

Lower spray arm heat shield melted

  • Customer: Ashley from Littleton CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Electrolux part number PS1524955, lower spray arm.

Problem. Dishwasher was spraying water out the bottom of the door. The spray arm was damaged when the heat shield overheated, causing the shield to contact the heating element. This resulted in the spray arm melting, causing water to be sprayed out the small gap between the dishwasher door, and the dishwasher bottom pan.

Repair
Lower spray arm is easy to remove. Release the arm clips at the center of the spray arm. When the clips are released, lift and remove damaged arm. Replacement arm is attached by pressing down on the center of the spray arm. The new unit has smaller heat shields so it will be less prone to overheating.

Thanks for the fast shipping. Part was recieved in a few days. For just a few dollars, the handwashing is over.

Heater High-Limit Thermostat Failed

  • Customer: Scott from Hermitage TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
As another poster had written, on terminal on the thermostat was burned off, most likely due to poor contact by the female spade connector on the end of one of the wires. Removed the DW, tipped it back to gain access, removed the failed thermostat, installed the new one, crimped a new terminal on the end of the wire, and re-installed the DW. Tested all cycles with the heat on and everything worked as designed. Very simple repair, took more time to get the DW out and put it back in than to replace the part and repair the wire.

Frigidaire dishwasher main pump failed

  • Customer: jeff from Orlando FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
10 year old stainless steel faced Frigidaire dishwasher. The motor assembly part fixed my problem. This was the second part required to fix the dishwasher. A week prior I replaced the inlet water solenoid switch to correct the "no water filling issue". I think that the main motor assembly pump ran dry and caused it to fail, so it is critical NEVER to run this part dry. The repair was relatively easy, I will say it would be great to have some instructions with the parts, however the kit came with everything. you essentially slide the dishwasher out disconnecting power and water ( i left the discharge connected since the service loop was long). you disconnect all the main pump electrical and water connections, labeling made it easy. you take the motor assembly out thru the inside tub. Once the internal sump assembly is out you can clean the sump and remove the old pump. Pull it out straight and dont wiggle it. The kit comes with new O rings that i put a light smear of vaseline on for a good seal. You reinstall the sump and make connections. Since my dishwasher is old, the original Molex power connector to the motor is different on the new motor. The kit comes with a new style connector, what you have to do is snip off your old connector and the kit comes with a new connector with crimps on the ends, you slide the provided heat shrink over each wire and then crimp your dishwashers wires to the new connector. I then used a butane lighter to shrink the heat shrink. The heat shrink is not absolutely necessary since the crimps are insulated, but since the kit came with two perfectly cut pieces of heat shrink I felt obligated to use it. This sounds all complicated but it really wasn't and much cheaper than a new dishwasher! Interestingly and this only maybe in my case but the dishwasher seems to clean better than it ever did.. for now we are not pre-rinsing!

Dishwasher was growing mold on inside lid door. Also the glasses were not looking clean. Appeared as if they were not getting rinsed well enough.

  • Customer: Matt from Bowling Green OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the lower front cover of the dishwasher to get under the dishwasher. Then I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then opened the dishwasher door and removed the old element and replaced it with the new element. I closed the dishwasher door and reconnected the two wires making sure that I put the proper wire on the proper post. I then put the two screws back on the element to hold it in place Next I replaed the cover on the front and tested the dishwasher for heat by running it empty.

dishasher Soap/Rinse Dispenser

  • Customer: George from Fond Du Lac WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
The latch on the soap dispenser got worn out over the past few years on the dishwasher. I tried just puting the detergent into it and running it as usual. The detergent was added Immediatley.. missing the proper timing that would normally dispense it properly. As a result the dishes were not coming out clean and lacked the shiny clean quality we were accustomed to . I ordered the right part, got it quickly and put it in..and were back to doing dishes and having them come out the right way...spotless and clean like they should.
All Instructions for the FDB1050REC2
16-30 of 463