FAFS4272LN0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

1. Unplug unit.
2. Unscrew 2 nuts holding top in place in rear of unit using phillips head screwdriver.
3.Slide top back and remove.
4. Open door of washer and unscrew 2 screws holding in door lock unit.
5.Pull out unit from the top and install new unit reconnecting the 3 wire connections.

remove top of machine by removing 3 screws along the top edge in the back of your machine and then sliding the top back and up. Then loosen the screws holding on the control panel enough to get to the 2 screws at the top of the door panel. Next remove bottom panel by removing 2 screws along bottom edge then pulling it free from snaps. Then along the outside lip of the bellow, just inside the door, is a wire clip that is easily removed by prying it past rubber lip with a screw driver and lifting it away. Remove the door panel by removing the 2 screws you exposed by loosening the control panel and 2 more along the bottom that were exposed when removing bottom panel. After the door panel is removed and the bellow is completely exposed, you will find that it is held in place by a circular spring which wraps the whole way around the drum opening. Again it can be removed by prying it out away from the groove in which it sits with a screw driver. Now your machine is broken down as far as it needs to be. From here you can follow the directions included in your new bellow kit and put it back together by following these instructions in reverse.

Door lock takes a beating due to flimsy washer door which does not align well and subsequently gets slammed each time which causes lock to malfunction telling the washer that it is not locked. Due to safety the washer will not go into the spin mode. Remove top lid (2 screws) open washer door and loosed the 2 screws holding the lock assembly in place. Reach down into the washer and unsnap the 3 wire harnesses. Reverse to reinstall. Very easy.

Removed the screws holding the door. (One was stuck a little so used an air drill with Phillips head to get the torque needed but someone with a strong grip could have done it as it came out very easily). I removed most of the screws holding the front to back of door to exchange the hinge. There was a problem with the old hinge slopping around and not allowing the door to align properly when shutting it. The new hinge works better. See note*** below on doorframe. I pretty much was able to get the door back together and make it work. I then exchanged the door striker with no problem. It has a built in key so you cannot attach it incorrectly. The next thing was to just reattach the door to the machine and it worked right off the bat. ------------- *** Unfortunately, there were two screw mounts in the Outer Door Frame - Chrome Part Number: PS3495258 that were broken. This doorframe is listed as a $200+ chrome part whereas it is actually a plastic material that is extremely over priced for what it is. Like I mentioned two of the screw mounts had broken off so those screws are just "decoration" now. (These are screws that basically hold the back cover to the front cover). If this becomes a problem, I will simply modify what I have and make the screws fit before I spend $200+ on that part. (It looks like this could be drilled out and a long screw and nut run through to make it work. TELL THE WASHER OPERATOR… just be careful opening and closing the unit (don't slam the door but carefully close it) and it should work a lot longer. I might investigate the make up of a washer the next time I buy one … but the chrome vs. plastic is a hard one to spot. I hope this helps.

Using a screw driver I removed the spring loaded band from around the rubber boot inside the door. You only need to remove the band and then pull the boot from the bottom around to the side. You do not need to fully remove boot. Unscrew locking mechanism. Slide out to be able to see connections. Remove connections. Replace mechanism, reattaching connections into appropriate spots. Replace mechanism and rescrew in. Replace rubber boot by pulling gently out and working rubber V of boot under the metal slot. Once the boot is replaced, replace the metal band making sure the spring is at the bottom of the boot. Wahlah!!! Washer is working perfectly.

The door striker of the my front loading washing machine is plastic and breaks very easy. The small store I brought it from is now closed and I can't get the part and the last time I did order the part it took a least two weeks for it to arrive and my wash pile was huge. I ordred your part and in two days I had it! Much easier than the 65 dollars charge to have the repairman walk through the door to fix it and the long wait for it to arrive.

I just removed the 2 screws, removed the old striker and replaced it with the new one. The entire project took 3 minutes.

Great advice on your site.
Repairman "found bad motor control board" and gave me an estimate of $316.00 to repair. I figured that the $80 gamble was worth a shot. Took the top screws off, slid the top back and in less than 15 min. I had a fully functioning washer. Thank you.

took out door lock and switch assembly replace with a new one and it work

I read the input of others who had this problem with this washer and how they had replaced the door lock and switch assembly. I figured it was worth the $70-$80 part versus the $540 repair or purchasing a new machine. I was really happy with the machine until this problem occurred.
When I got the new part.....I unplugged the machine. Took out two screws in the back of the top panel. Removed the top of the machine. Took out two screws in the front of the machine that hold the door lock ans switch assembly into place. I unplugged the three wires from the old part (be careful not to drop the old or new part....if you choose to do this by reaching in from the top like I did for this repair.....easier than removing the entire front of the machine.)
I plugged the three wires into the new part and positioned the new part in the door lock position. Replaced the two screws. Put the cover back on the top and replaced the two screws that hold the top cover on the machine.
I was thrilled when it worked perfectly. What a relief!
Sure glad I looked at this website and tried this! The repairman really didn't know enough about my machine....obviously. I'd like to call him and tell what was really wrong so next time he'll know.

After viewing the installation video, I decided not to attempt this and caled a repairman. He cautioned me not to replace the rubber if the only reason is the moldy smell. He said that the mold will reappear in a couple of years and that regular cleaning will help combat the problem. He said that replacing the bellows should be limited to necessity such as leaking.

Watched video which was very helpful

first I remove two screws then hold the part in place.

Simply removed several screws around inner glass Then part set right into place. replaced all the screws and was completed.

The previous posts made it dead easy - remove screws at the back holding top in place; slide top back; remove screws holding door latch assembly; disconnect three plugs, and connect new part. Replace fastenings, done! Throw up hands and wait for the official time;)