Models > F9257W0 > Instructions

F9257W0 Roper Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for F9257W0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the F9257W0
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F3 Error message

  • Customer: Charles from Brecksville OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 85 of 109 people found this instruction helpful
Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the string still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!

8 inch burner wouldn't come on. Wires shorted out

  • Customer: Jonathan from Lilburn GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 36 of 43 people found this instruction helpful
One screw holds the block onto the stove top. Had to clean out fitting for phillips screwdriver or screw would have stripped because it was old with lots of buildup. Even cleaned out, this screw required great force with phillips screwdriver to keep from stripping. Caution! If you strip it, you'll have to drill it out! The rest was a snap. Cut the old wires leading to the old block (not too close to where wires disappear into back of stove, though!). Strip insulation off both wires and attach with the connectors that came in the kit. Then push the wires into the block, and finally, attach the block back to the stove top (new screw is supplied). Restore power and everything should be fine. One problem: Roper/Whirlpool built their appliance in such a way that when the connector block shorts out, it usually takes the infinite switch with it. So I ended up having to go back and purchase that switch as well (which just so happens to cost twice to three times as much!). If you put it all back together and it still doesn't work, that's probably what happened, so go ahead and remove the knob panel and check that switch (it's right behind the control knobs on the front). You will probably find a burned connector at the back top left or the switch. Don't forget to write down which wire goes where (or just take a picture of it).

Burner would not heat

  • Customer: Edward from Malvern AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
First i shut off the power since this is an electric cook top/range. I then removed the knob and the two screws that hold the burner switch in place. I removed the wires one at a time and connected each to the new switch. I then reattached the screws to the switch. The most difficult part to me was breaking off the switch stem at the right level. I got that done and finally selected the appropriate adapter for the stem/knob fit.

One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot

  • Customer: Phillip from Pekin IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

The switch had shorted

  • Customer: Stephen from COlleyville TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I reviewed the schematic. Removed the outer casing. Pulled out the existing wires and replaced them exactly on the new switch. Snipped out off the control stem to match the others. There was a small metal piece on the old stem which holds on the knob. I removed it from the old stem and put it on the new stem and Eureka.

burner quite heating discovered switch was the problem

  • Customer: Ronald from McClelland IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
lifted hood top unscrewed 4 small screws opening lid to switch housing took out 2 small screws that held the switch and then transfered wires to new switch replaced new switch with 2 new screws and back to working again walla! Time spent less than 30 minutes very simple as the instructions were very self explainatory.

Electric burner on stove would not work

  • Customer: Ronald from Fresno CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

Loose terminal caused block to overheat and break

  • Customer: Dana from Black Mountain NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Removed all terminals and block mounting screws. Repaired one burnt terminal and reassembled. Replacement part was an exact fit and reassembly whnet very well.

Replacing the bulb in the freezer side

  • Customer: Yafa (and David) from Bothell WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Electric burners where consistently intermittently working right. Sometimes they would work on High but not able to adjust to low heat. Sometimes they would just not want to come on at all. Occasionally there was a spark at the connection. If I jiggled the element just right it may or may not wo

  • Customer: JOAN from Pickford MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

I snapped a bolt on the main power terminal block when connecting the pigtail.

  • Customer: Frank from Palm Coast FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the small metal panel covering the main power terminal in back of the electric range. Removed the nuts holding the red, white and black electrical wires from the range using the appropriate socket (there will be two nuts on each bolt end). Removed the two screws holding the main power terminal block with appropriate screw driver. Connect the new main power terminal block to the range using the two screws. Reconnect the red, black and white electrical wires coming from the range using one nut for each wire. IMPORTANT: do no over tighten the nuts because the bolts could snap. Reconnect the pigtail and secure the small metal panel covering the main power panel.

Sparks emitted at burner connection and burner does not work.

  • Customer: Doug from Puyallup WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. Turn off circuit breaker, pull out element and remove reflector pan.
2. Unfasten terminal block mounting screw and remove terminal block from casing.
3. Cut wires as close to defective terminal block as possible (not as per instructions) since you will need the maximum possible length of wire.
4. Slip on heat shrink sleeves, strip stove wires and connect to new terminal block per instructions.
5. Heat shrink sleeves per instructions.

FRONT BURNER WOULD NOT HEAT

  • Customer: GAIL from ORCHARD PARK NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I CUT THE POWER TO THE CIRCUIT. REMOVED THE BURNER AND THEN UNSCREWED THE OLD ALUMINUM PLATE ATTACHED TO THE RANGE TOP COVER. OPENED THE TOPCOVER TO ACCESS THE WIRES. I CUT THE TWO WIRES BEING SURE THAT I LEFT ENOUGH LENGTH. I THEN SLIPPED THE TWO NEW WIRES WITH THE BRASS CONTACTS INTO THE NEW BLACK PLASTIC HOLDER UNTIL IT LOCKED. REATTACHED THE NEW METAL PLATE TO THE RANGE COVER, FED THE WIRES THROUGH AND SNAPPED THE NEW PLASTIC HOLDER INTO THE ALUMINUM PLATE. SECURED WIRE ENDS WITH THE CERAMIC WIRE NUTS. TOTAL TIME ABOUT 30 MINUTES.

Sparking Burner

  • Customer: Patti from Burbana IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Followed instructions from previous repair story!!
Pulled old burner out. Unscrewed plug element. Cut old wires back about 6 inches from plug. Attached new part with wire nuts provided and covered with shrink sleeves provided. Attached plug with provided screw and slipped in new element. Works great!!
I want to thank the previous posters for posting their detailed repair stories....without reading those, I may have called a repair service and paid big bucks. Thanks to all previous posters for the detailed information they provided!! PS...The parts arrived in amazingly quick!!

Electric stove burners working intermitantly.

  • Customer: Michael from St. Louis MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).
All Instructions for the F9257W0
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