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F6858^0
F6858^0 Whirlpool Range - Overview
Sections of the F6858^0
[Viewing 8 of 8]
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Lid Switch
PartSelect #: PS11723153
Manufacturer #: W10820036
This 3 prong lid switch is used for washing machines that do not have a tub light.
$23.69
In Stock
Round Carborundum Oven Igniter
PartSelect #: PS360921
Manufacturer #: 4342528
This round style gas oven igniter, or also known as a broil or bake igniter, has an amperage range between 2.5 and 3.0. It glows white hot to ignite the gas for the oven. The igniter does this by attr...
$51.37
In Stock
Hex Nut
PartSelect #: PS11738304
Manufacturer #: WP112432
This 10-32-inch hex nut works with multiple appliances in your home as a fastener. This specific model is sold individually. Hex nuts usually have 6 even sides and together they are used with bolts an...
$8.04
In Stock
SERVICE MOTOR-60 CYCLE (PRODUCTION MOTORS 296086, 295976 OR 295977)
PartSelect #: PS334960
Manufacturer #: 299761
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for F6858^0
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Common Symptoms of the F6858^0
[Viewing 7 of 7]Will Not Start
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Little to no heat when baking
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Will not drain
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Will not agitate
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Gas igniter glows, but will not light
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Element will not heat
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Won’t Start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
The lower burner would not ignite.
First I removed the oven racks. Then I loosened the two screws in the back of the oven floor and figured out how to remove it. Then I loosened the two screws at the front of the diverter and, with some pushing and pulling and twisting, was able to get that to come out, too. Then I tried lighting the oven and noticed that the igniter wa
... Read more
s not glowing. When I saw that the upper (broiler) burner was working fine, I hoped that the problem was the lower igniter itself. I checked the wires and they seemed fine. I saw that two bolts held the igniter onto its bracket, so with a socket wrench (which size I got right on the first guess!) I removed those bolts and the igniter came loose. I found the connecter for the wires when I removed the drawer under the oven and was able to pull it apart easily. The igniter came out completely. There was nothing unusual about it, but I decided to take a chance and order a new one, hoping that replacing it would solve the problem. I put the rest of the oven together and waited. About three days later the part arrived (it was sent on a holiday; FedEx is soooo much better than USPS). I retraced the steps of taking the oven apart, put the two bolts into the new igniter to attach it to the bracket, and went back underneath behind the drawer to connect the wires. Then came the moment of truth: I tried turing on the oven. I held the button down to keep the light off, and after a few seconds I saw it: IT GLOWED!! It worked!! After yelling a satisfying "YEAH!!," I turned it off, put back the drawer, the diverter (more pulling and pushing and twisting), and the oven floor. Now it's all working perfectly and it took a very short time to fix. And a little luck that the problem was with such a simple part.
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Parts Used:
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Mark from Rego Park, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
80 of 86 people
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Lid closes, switch wouldn't turn on machine.
Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams.
... Read more
Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.
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Parts Used:
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Kenneth from Wilmington, IL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
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Washer would fill up, wash, then stop
I deduced the lid switch was the problem.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed ... Read more it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed ... Read more it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.
The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.
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Parts Used:
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Glen from Plano, TX
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
22 of 30 people
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