This refrigerator defrost thermostat is a genuine OEM part and is sourced directly from the manufacturer. Located on the back wall of the freezer section in the refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is...
The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer s...
This is a 120 volt defrost timer manufactured for refrigerators. The defrost timer manages the automatic defrost systemin the unit. It acts like a clock by switching between activating the cooling cyc...
This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes ...
This is white touch up paint for refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, dryers, and freezers. It is used to cover, or touch up, nicks and scratches on the appliance from wear and tear. It is an 18ml bottl...
This is a switch for your refrigerator, but you may also know it as a door switch or a plunger light switch. This part turns your appliance light on and off as the door is opened and closed. If your c...
A filter-drier in a refrigerator has two essential functions. The first is to absorb system contaminants, such as water, which can create acids. The second is to provide physical filtration. This mean...
$12.10
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1. Unhooked a retaining wire that secures the controller to the compressor terminal box. 2. removed destroyed part. 3. Got the model and serial numbers and got online. 4. Ordered part 5. Waited a couple of weeks to get part 6. Found that the manufacturer had daisy chained a bunch of components together with some funny deep socket plugs t
... Read morehat by themselves are not routinely found so rather than buy a laundry list of unnecessary parts to get the aforementioned plus and make my customer wait a couple of more weeks I chose to connect the wires to a couple of high temperature female stainless steel quick connectors and feed the wires directly into the controller. Fortunately the controller had the polarity marked on the housing. (L for Line was the hot lead and C was for common the neutral lead) Failure to follow proper polarity will damage the part and could kill the compressors's start wimding.
After silencing the alarm, it seemed to be running as normal without any unusual noises, but food was starting to thaw from the top shelf on down and condensation was dripping from the roof. We were able to place most of the food in 2 large ice chests and then the rest in the freezer compartments of 2 fridges we have in the house. I the
... Read moren turned down the temp dial to the coldest setting and let it run for an hour or so; no change.
After researching on the internet, it sounded like our symptoms could be pointing to a defrost timer issue. I pulled the freezer away from the wall, located the timer and used a large screwdriver to slowly advance it. While doing this, at one point I could hear the compressor kick in. I pushed the quick freeze button and let it run for a while. When I checked it in a few hours, the alarm light had gone out and water that I had placed inside was frozen. We took a chance and put the food we placed in the ice chests back in the freezer. Everything was fine several hours later.
I ordered a new defrost timer, it arrived in a couple of days, and replaced the old one with it in a matter of minutes by disconnecting the wire harness from the old timer, removing the 2 screws holding it onto the bracket, screwing the new timer to the bracket, reconnecting the wires harness, and done. It's been a week or so and no problems.
slid freezer away from wall - - bottom left hand corner was the frost timer - - removed two philip head screws - - unpluged timer and installed new timer - - turned timer past first click to a little past second click (freeze cycle) - - slid freezer back FINISHED - - YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST WITH YOUR WEB PAGE AND HELP!!!!! Next day freeze
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