EV160NZTQ00 Whirlpool Freezer - Instructions

I used a flat-head screwdriver to pop out the old light rocker switch. Then, I unplugged the wires, plugged them into the new light rocker switch, and then popped the new switch into the hole. That's it! Lights began working again.

Removed shelves from inside freezer then removed 4 screws holding cover panel. Pulled panel up and slightly pulled forward to remove. Removed wiring connections then removed two screws that held the motor & fan assembly. Removed the support bracket from the old motor and installed same on the support bracket. Reversed removal procedures for installation. Cover panel is a little bit of a problem when trying to reinstall. Put in panel as high as you can and then slide down. You must then exert a little pressure on the bottom portion to get it to seat correctly. Install four remaing screws and you are done. I had this repaired previously by a professional repairman and noticed from the pictures you folks provided that he had installed the screws on the support bracket incorrectly. That was the reason for the fan blade to rip apart.

First I removed the old lightbulb from the socket and replaced it with a new one to confirm that the bulb was not the problem. I then pryed the socket out with a flat-head screwdriver. I could tell that the socket was anchored in its hole with clips so it was relatively easy to pry it out. Once the socket was out, I disconnected the lead wires and ordered a replacement socket kit from Partselect. When the new one arrived, I reconnected the lead wires to it, snapped it back into its hole, screwed in a new lightbulb, and presto!! The light was back on with no further problem. Thank you, Partselect!! A $15.00 part saved me what probably would have been at least a $100. service call and heaven knows what the technician would have told me I needed!!!

An easy job for smaller hands. Removed the two bolts holding the light cover. Removed two electrical connections from the old switch by pinching the retaining clip,removed the switch, snapped in the new one and re-attached the connectors. Your online illustrations helped me to know that the plastic housing for the light switch would only swing down so far and was not intended to be removed. Saved me from breaking that plastic cover's tabs. This home repair saved me more than 5 times the cost of hiring a professional to do it. Very happy homeowner.

This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

The first thing I observed was the bolts that attach the motor to the mounting bracket were installed backwards at the factory. This caused the fan to catch on the bolt ends which resulted in the motor burning up. When I installed the new motor, I reversed the bolt direction. There is no way the fan will catch. The freezer works great !

Once I saw the replacement part I understood how to pry out the switch with a small screwdriver. Then just unplug the old one, plug in the new one and pop it into place.

The PartSelect site made it easy to correctly identify the correct part, it was inexpensive, and the shipping was fast.

I'm very pleased!

Turn off power to freezer. Removed two shelves, removed four phillip screws and cover. Used 5/16 nutdriver to remove two fan motor bracket bolts. Did not disconnect wiring, had enough room to flip motor over and remove broken fan blade and attach new fan blade. After reading remarks from another home tech, I reversed the bolts holding motor to bracket, so nuts would not come in contact with fan blades again. Still not sure why fan would of slipped down to break. Running good now!

tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok

After observing defrost timer go into (and out of), defrost cycle, I checked continuity of heating element. Since heater coil was intact (79 Ohms of resistance), I figured the defrost thermostat (aka bi-metal therm.), had to be at fault. The new part ($17.00), proved my suspicions correct. As I sought to determine if everything worked, I had to wait for the temp. to drop below the defrost therm. set point before I would see the heater coil get hot.
To avoid the costly failure in future, I bought a Chaney wireless therometer with two remote sensors. Sensors require lithium batteries. $30.00 for both are a cheap insurance system.

plastic warped in ,spaced out and, the socket snapped back in place.

Just replaced the switch, but unfortunately that was not the problem; nor was it the bulb....so I am back to square one.
But Parts Select is a great place to order from. Thank you.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

It was so easy!

Thanks for the rush to my home on the part.

I just unscrewed the plate that locks in the light switch (screwdriver) and unplugged the old faulty part and plugged in the new switch, screwed the cover back on and I was done!

Easy!

And I am not Mr. Fix-it!

Used a screw driver to pull old switch. Pulled one wire at a time, only two wires. After wires instlled to new switch push new one back in place where the old one was.