EMO3000HCC04 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I removed the glass tray and pulled up the coupler.I then put in the new one but it would not go down all the way down. I then noticed a piece of plastic podruding from the side of the shaft. I removed it and it fit perfectly. Job done.

As a gentlemen before-just removed broken item and inserted the new coupler. Placed glass tray and started our microwave. It could not have been any easier.

ordered new turntable coupler. When it came I had to file the little nubbin down to fit in the hole and on the shaft. Works great now.

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Removed the one phillips screw that holds the light lens in place, drop the lens down for access to the burned out bulb, screw in the new bulb, replace the lens.

I disconnected all power to the microwave. I removed the five screws from the bottom panel. Disconnected the motor. I removed the two screws from the motor. I then switched the old motor for the new motor and reversed the process. Very easy. Maybe 10 min. Definitely beat buying a new microwave! Thanks

replace socket

Removed 5 phillip screws from bottom plate of microwave oven to lower the plate and gain access to the socket. Then, removed screw(s) attaching socket to the oven. Installed socket, and secured the bottom plate of the oven with screws removed previously.

Followed suggestion by previous poster to remove bottom panel...facilitated process well

Unplug, Put Towel on cooktop. Took out screws on bottom and lowered. Removed two screws holding motor in place, Attach new motor to leads and screwed in place, Put up bottom and screwed in place. Easy, fast and works great.

I read about this problem on google-E How? The instructions said to break gently off the hook and let the inside fall down. I did try to bring entire hook out, but the way the hook is designed. It did not come out out of hole. I then gently placed new hooks into hole. part number WBO6X10224, PS227935, PS227934. Then I popped a popcorn bag and Presto!.

Very easy to replace the light socket. Unscrew screws under microwave to lower the base. remove screw at rear of light socket. Unplug power to socket. Plug wire into new socket. Replace new socket into base and replace serew. Hold base plate up to microwave and replace all screws. Do yourself a favor, if replacing one of the lights, go ahead and do both. Shipping cost is the same for 1 or 2 bulb sockets.

Used my hands, fitted coupler in place-it only fits one way, pushed until it snapped into place. I was unable to access the piece that broke off as it had fallen through the hole. I left it there. The turn table is now working as designed. This repair took less than five minutes. Buying the part, even with the shipping and handling, and replacing it myself was a much less expensive than buying a new microwave.