EI30DS5CJS1 Electrolux Range - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.

Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven light switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Was easy...I pulled oven out from the wall so I could get to the back.i used a nut driver to remove small silver cover.matched up wires to the never module and re installed.pluged oven back in and burners lit perfectly

Replaced the ingintion module, still did not work, replaced the burner complete with new ingiter , it now works but another one quit . the front right one has 5 ohms resistance ,replaced with new one with 0 ohms, the back left has 2 ohms resistance and now it does not work , will need to replace that burner allso. too bad you can't buy just the spark module for the burner.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

First, I watched a lot of videos on YouTube. All of them were very similar, and had similar repair instructions, doing all the work at the site of the regulator location. The gas supply flex line was easily detached, as well as the line that exited the regulator to feed the stove. The gas inlet nipple, however, was not willing to unscrew. My regulator was held on by Phillips head sheet metal screws, which were easy enough to unscrew, so I just removed the regulator, still attached to the gas connection nipple. I went to my shop and placed the regulator in a vise, careful to clamp either end, not the regulator valve itself, and used a deep socket over the nipple, and had to use a Breaker Bar to loosen the nipple. I cleaned the nipple where Pipe Dope had been used, and applied new sealant, then screwed it back on the the Regulator, once again using the socket and bar. Then I threaded the new regulator body with the sheet metal screws while it was clamped in the vise. (The new regulator was not threaded, and I had to use vise grips to hold the screws while turning them in) After that, installation of the new regulator was relatively easy. I wish Frigidaire had used hex head screws instead of the Phillips. After install, range worked perfectly. PartSelect delivered correct part in a timely manner.

on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have