Models > EHS335

EHS335 Caloric Range - Overview

Get Parts and Repair Help for EHS335

If you know the range repair part you need, you can browse the list of all parts on the EHS335, or you can search by name or part description. You can also find your part by where it is located on the EHS335 by selecting a section below. If you’re not sure which part you need, you can narrow your search by selecting a common symptom and we’ll show you the repair parts most likely to fix your range. Installation instructions provided by other do-it-yourselfers will help guide you through your repair.

$4.26

Chrome Drip Bowl - 8"

This part has been substituted by the manufacturer and has a hole in the center. It no longer has a solid bottom. Sold individually.

$8.22

Surface Burner Plug-In Block Kit

This newer-style terminal block kit includes two metal brackets, two pre-crimped wires with terminals, two ceramic wire nuts, a heat shrinking tube, and a mounting screw.

$107.16

Electric Oven Thermostat

This part establishes and maintains the internal temperature of the oven cavity. The temperature of this thermostat ranges from 150 degrees Fahrenheit to 550 degrees Fahrenheit.

$37.32

Bake Element

The terminals are twenty-one inches apart and have a depth of two inches.

$26.09

Oven Seal - Top or Bottom

This piece of oven door seal has a metal hook on each end. This seal is compatible with the top and the bottom of the oven door window.

$43.52

BROIL ELEMENT

This electric oven broil element is 8-1/2 inches wide and 16 inches long. The terminal depth is 1-3/8 inches. Use this broil element for your Amana brand electric range or oven.

$18.62

Oven Sides Seal

It is made of black rubber and has a metal hook in each end.

$3.71

SPRING, OVEN DOOR, L.

OVEN RACK

GLASS, BACKGUARD

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Oven seals got dried and cracked

  • Customer: Brent from Goleta CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
The top seal was too long (my fault, ordered wrong length seal) so I had to cut it and high-temp epoxy the metal hook into the end. Overall pretty easy fix. read more

One burner didn't work all the time the other would go red hot

  • Customer: Phillip from Pekin IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves o... read more

Electric burner on stove would not work

  • Customer: Ronald from Fresno CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of th... read more