EF36IWFSSS1 Dacor Refrigerator - Instructions

After lots of internet exploring and diagnosis, the icemaker comes right out, and with three screws out and in, the job is all but done. Don't pay anyone for this repair!!!!!

I called the installer of my filter unit and he told me that often, thhe fridge filter is the problem. Like magic it worked

just like the video showed, removed the cover parts inside the fridge, disconnected the water tube inside and pulled out from the top of fridge, then inserted new water tube.

I pulled the ils gasket out of track and replaced with the new one. Instructions ncluded state to be very careful with new gasket as the magnets may break. Total time 2 minutes with no tools required.

Could not figure out why this was happening suddenly. Then remembered I had recently changed the lid to one I had stored for over two years in the garage. They had sent me a replacement lid when the unit was less than a year old because the origianl had a crack in the clear section. Noticed it seemed a little warped. Thought I would replace it to see if that solved the
problem.
We had to replace the side panel of the draawer because the warped lid had broken the peg off of one side. I didn't want that to happen again.
The new lid did the job....This company is the only one I will use in the future for my appliances. Very easy to find parts and the pricing was better.

1. removed both bottom crisper drawers
2. removed glass shelf under crisper drawers
3. removed shelf support pieces
4. removeded snack drawer
5. removed left slide rail using phillips screwdriver (2 screws)
6. removed LH end cap using socket wrench (3 screws)
7. attached new LH end cap
8. attached slide rail
9. installed glas shelf supports
10. installed glas shelf
11. install bottom crisper drawers
12. install snack drawer
13. install snack drawer top

total time was less than 15 minutes

The front had to be removed from old drawer a put on new one

The replacement part provided was not an exact replacement. The part did not include a water reservoir. Instead, it had a 25 ft long water line that ran from the water filter to the water connection behind the fridge. The long water line was difficult to deal with, did not fit easily into the space provided for the water reservoir, and is coiled up behind my fridge. The part did work, but I'm unhappy with not having the resevoir.

Reviewed replacement instructions video on your website. Just followed the easy instructions to pop out old cover and pop in new cover. I would not have tried to replace it myself had I not seen your video. Super easy.

i had used your web site before and i read several problems that your readers had. i went to the back of the unit, removed the bottom cover and right there the i found the run capacitor and i chaged it. since i had only ordered this part to save money i went back and ordered the Start Device which when i took it off it was completely burned. the replacement part came labeled with 2 different compressor #, so i picked the one that i had and unpluged each wire. the part may differ from the one that it's in the unit but it worked when i pluged everything back on. it also helps to take a picture of everything before removing the wires in case you have to leave it and come back later. i hope to use this refrigerator another 10 years. thank you all for your help.

replaced the poorly designed "duck bill" drain with this P trap. Very simple repair done by accessing through the back of the refrigerator. The video on this website walked me right through the repair. It did however fail to mention that the ice has to be removed from the inside. I had to remove the drawer face and pull outs. Then the ice maker and back panel are removed. I used a heat gun and screwdriver to chip and melt the ice build up. If one had the luxury of having another refrigerator to move food in to you could just unplug the unit until the ice melts.

The other instructions and the video provided by Parts Direct are pretty good with instructions, but they omit two steps. First, if you have an ice maker, you will need to unplug the connector on the back side of the panel you remove at the back of the refrigerator to access the drain tube. Just unplug it and you can move the removed panel to the side without disconnecting any of the water lines. Second, the instructions say to just reconnect the "bottom end" of the new p-trap drain to the drain pan at the bottom of the refrigerator. They don't tell you there are two places to connect the new p-trap to the drain pan. The original tube/trough connected to the one at the back of the drain pan on the left (viewed from the rear of the refrigerator). At first, it looks like the new p-trap won't reach to it for the connection, but if you look closer, there is another connector to the right of the original one that the p-trap connects to properly. Replacing the drain trough with the new p-trap was actually pretty easy and would only take about a half hour. Add another half hour to give the refrigerator coils a good cleaning as they will need it now that you can reach them. The real time consumer, 3 to 4 hours, is needed to use a hair dryer to melt and clear the ice from the condenser at the back of the freezer so the water can drain. Just take your time and all the ice will eventually melt and drain out so the new p-trap will work properly.

Pulled the broken pantry door off, and snapped the new door in place. Vry simple.

The troubleshooting time takes about 20 to 30 minutes. After checking out the solenoid (valve water), the water line, and the electronic board (emitter/receiver) are working fine. The only thing left is the ice module. I called Partselect and talked to a sale rep to make sure I get the right part, and the lady was so helpful by sendind the picture of the part so I can review before ordering it. I received the part in 3 days ( normal shipping) and did the folowings:
1) Unplugged the power cord from refrigerator.
2) Removed the ice module by removed a 1/4" screw from under the right side of the icemaker that retains the icemaker and a “U” plastic clamp and then pull out the whole unit it from the track.
3) Unplugged the cable connected to the ice maker.
4) Using the phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws. Carefully pulled out the ice module and installed the new ice module.
5) Put the ice maker back to the freezer, plug the cable back to the ice maker and put the clamp and tighten the nut.
6) Plugged the power cable back to the wall.

The first ice I got in an hour and a full bucket of ice in less than 24 hours. I spent less than $80 for the whole thing. Thank you so much Partselect for the great service and the stories posted, it really helped me to get it done.

Uncurl new gaskets (set out on a table or countertop) and let them get to room temperature so they straighten out. Use hands to pull off old door gaskets. Starting at corners, use hands to push gasket into the groove on the door. Make sure gasket is properly seated all the way around the door. If some part is still wrinkled or bent, carefully use a hairdryer to heat it a bit and smooth it out.