EER3001K02SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Shut power off to stove. Removed two screws with a 1/4" nut driver. Extracted the old element. Discovered one of the two solderless connections was not connected. Pulled the stove out and removed the back panel, only 4 screws, and exposed the wiring to the element. Discovered a wire connection had burned out. This was most likely due to a loose connection. I installed the new element and made the good connection. After cleaning up the burnt wire end on the other wire, I installed a new crimp terminal and connected it to the element. These crimp connections need to be tight. Replaced back panel and plugged stove back in and tested it. All worked fine. Put stove back in place. About 30 minutes. I am an electrician but do not normally do appliances. Good luck.

Man..this was easy. I'm no Mr Fix-it, and had actually left a message with a repair guy to come and replace the fried oven(bake) coil. After doing a Google search, and seeing the video by the PartSelect guy, I said, "hey I can do this". I ordered the part, it came wrapped better than my first born child, and it was a breeze to install. My wife is still in shock that I did it!

Changed out the burner with a new replacement and it still didn't work. The socket on the old burner had a burn mark on it. The infinite switch operated sloppy not crisp like the other burners.Ordered a replacement online. Moved the range away from wall and cabinet and shut off electric at panel box. Removed upper back panel. removed switch knob and 2 screws holding switch. Compared electrical connections of both switches and saw that they were different. Read instructions which were included with new switch and found diagram for connecting old lead to new lead correctly. After all leads were connected, remounted new switch powered up and tested OK.

Unpluged the unit from the electrical outlet,unscrewed the unit from the back wall. I used electrical tape to hold the wires so they wouldn't go back inside the stove. Replaced the unit with the new one. Pushed the prones into the unit,put the screwes back and in now time i was finished.Quick and easy job for a lady.

Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.

Never did a repair like that. Had to ask store clerk what you call that thing you take off bolts with. But repair went great. Very satisfied. Part arrived very quickly and saved our Christmas dinner. THANK YOU!

I had read some accounts of the terminal wires pulling back into the insulation, and, sure enough, one of them did before I could clip it. Even at that, pulling the stove out and removing the four nuts that held the shield in place only added another five minutes, tops. The whole thing took less than 15 minutes to change. One nut driver removes the two nuts that secure the bake element to the back of the oven, and also fits the four nuts on the shield on the back of the stove. Very easy repair, thanks to the advice given by others on this site. Thanks.

1. Pull range out from wall and disconnect power cord from outlet. 2. Remove 5 screws to remove panel on back side of range to expose the bake element connections. 3. Pull push-on terminals from element. 4. On inside of oven, remove two screws and remove old element. 5. Insert contacts end of new element through the holes in oven back wall. 6. Reverse the disassembly steps to complete the installation.

I watched your video on the subject and followed it exactly. It explained everything I needed to know. The hardest part was CLEANING under the stove once I pulled it out from the wall!

After searching the internet for a cause for the burner not getting hot it looked as though it was the burner switch. I ordered the switch and installed it. Behold it still did not work. I then ordered the burner, installed it and it worked. So I had a 50/50 chance as to which part was the problem. This was my first stove repair and I found it easy to do. Finding something to hold up the ceramic cooktop took the most time. I cut a piece of wood to prop it up while I replaced the burner.

Installation instructions on the partsdirect site were great. Unscrewed the (2) hex head screws that hold the element and used clamps to hold the terminal ends from recoiling back into the insulation of the oven cabinet. Put the push on terminal ends on the new element, tightened screws and done. The $50. Part fixed the problem and delayed another range purchase.

Pulled the top back panel off, pulled off burner control knob, removed 2 screws which released switch, removed 5 wires from switch and connected them to new switch (pulled off faily easily). Reconnected the 2 screws to range and pushed knob back on. Replaced panel and reconnect the electric. Now works as it should.

Pull knob. Pull wires. Pull two screws. Replace switch

We emptied the bottom drawer and pulled out the stove, unplugged it and my wonderful son came over and installed the part in about 15 - 20 minutes. The part came without instructions, so we were glad he was around. I am glad we were able to find your service. Thanks.

After reading on the website of others doing repairs I was able to fix my oven easily. I removed the two screws on the back wall of the oven. I carefully pulled the element forward bringing with it the connector wires. Before sliding them off of the old element I made sure that they were pulled out far enough so not to loose them in the insulation. I removed the old element. Slid the connector wires on to the element. Carefully slid the element back into the back of the oven. Put the screws back in and I was done.