EER3001H01SS General Electric Range - Instructions

Disconnect the range from the mains. Open the door. Remove the single screw holding the temperature sensor - this is located on the back wall on center and is screwed to the broiler mounting plate. Remove the four screws holding the boiler element and allow it to hang down on the wire; this exposes a space to feed the wire through later. Now move to the back of the range and remove the six screws that hold the central cover plate. Now push the insulation to up out of the way and you can disconnect the temperature sensor, pull it out through front, insert the new one and connect it. Reassemble in the reverse order. Mine worked perfectly!

I took a picture of the setup and damage . I then disconnected the burnt wires and replaced the wires . Then I installed the new terminal block and connected the wires to the proper positions. The reason for the failure was that the delivery people didn't tighten the cord when they installed the stove . I would check the connections periodically as to avoid another situation like this .

After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I had viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws

I found a video on Youtube with a similar circuit board repair and decided that I could probably do it. First and most important is to be certain the range is disconnected from its electric circuit. I did this by turning off the breaker at the electrical panel and then unplugging the range. Second, I removed a panel (four screws) on the back of my stove to expose the circuit board, Next I removed the board (four screws) without disconnecting the wiring. Then I removed the flexible plastic covering from the board which has the control button identities on it. This was the most difficult part because the glue was very sticky and I did not want to tear the cover. After removal, I stuck the plastic covering (still sticky) onto the new circuit board and made sure the buttons were in the correct position. Then, I unplugged the wires one at a time from the old circuit board and made sure I plugged them into the new board in the correct position. Finally, I reattached the new board and the back panel on the stove. This repair was easy and no problem for the average "do it yourself" type.

Unplugged from wall outlet, then opened oven front door. Reached in and removed two screws. Pulled oven sensor threw and detached electrical connector from old sensor. Plugged in new oven sensor and reversed removal procedure. No more Flashing F2 and oven temperature came to ready. Very easy.

Simply removed drawer and lined up the newsupports. Made sure the guide pin was lined up and installed with single screw

My husband pulled out the bake element with no thought about the connection wires. They totally disappeared. He couldn't find them anywhere. Of course, he started this little project at 6:00 PM, I said forget it, I need to use the stove for dinner. The next day I attempted to find the wires & couldn't. I pulled the stove out, took off the panel on the back, found the wires, pushed them through & used clothespins to hold them in place. I put the new element in, attached it loosely so I could put the insulation back in, used a socket wrench(if that's what it is called)tightened it up, went behind the stove & did a good cleaning, put the panel back on with the same socket wrench, pushed the stove back, turned the electric back on, turned on the oven & it worked perfectly. I called my husband & he said "don't turn the oven on until I check what you have done to make sure it is right". I said "it is already on & is working just fine, thank you!" If I would have done this myself in the first place, I would have said easy, 30 minutes(even if I had to pull the stove out)& it sure beats paying for a GE service repairman to do the job, which is what my husband originally wanted to do. I forgot to mention, make sure you turn the circuit breaker off before you start. I used directions that I found on your site from other customers that installed the same bake element & it was easy. They were such a big help. I was also very happy with PartSelect & how quickly I received my order. Sorry to write a book, but I thought that someone might get a laugh out of this story!

Directtions were by diagram only, no written instructions. Drawing was small and difficult to follow but the repair itself was easy.

I found that installing my element was far easier when I found this link it is a video on how to install this part It made it far easier to install correctly.

turned power off, loosing the to screws, left up and pull front, removed the two connection.placed new element inside oven fsten the two wires. push elemen, back in place, allaing screw holes tighten screw, turn power back on. Stove(oveb) working just like new.

My husband took care if it, very simple...took him less than 10 mins.

removed old element--had read warnings about wiring would go back into insulation--pliers slipped and one wire "jumped" back into insulation--had to take back off stove to retrieve the connection--other than that incident, the connection was simple--suggestion--make sure you have needle nosed vise grip pliers to prevent wire from becoming lost in the insulation---could not find my pliers so had to use regular pliers.

Removed old lower bake element on the inside by removing nuts at the back of inside of stove which holds element in place. Then removed metal guard panel on the outside back of stove to disconnect old terminals. Then from the inside of oven removed the old element and reconnected the new element terminals.

Easy to install replacement parts using the screws provided.

Unplugged the old and plugged the new one. replaced the covers and turned the power back on. No problems!!