EER2002M02BS General Electric Range - Instructions

1 Turn oven off. 2 Turn oven light on. 3 Remove 2 1/4" screw holding element in place. 4 tip front of element up and the back of the element down and pull gently down and out. 5 remove 2 1/4" electrical connectors from the element. 6 discard old element. 7 install new element in reverse order of above steps.

Removed two screws and lifted up the top of the stove to replace the broken handle with the new one.

Shut power off to stove. Removed two screws with a 1/4" nut driver. Extracted the old element. Discovered one of the two solderless connections was not connected. Pulled the stove out and removed the back panel, only 4 screws, and exposed the wiring to the element. Discovered a wire connection had burned out. This was most likely due to a loose connection. I installed the new element and made the good connection. After cleaning up the burnt wire end on the other wire, I installed a new crimp terminal and connected it to the element. These crimp connections need to be tight. Replaced back panel and plugged stove back in and tested it. All worked fine. Put stove back in place. About 30 minutes. I am an electrician but do not normally do appliances. Good luck.

Man..this was easy. I'm no Mr Fix-it, and had actually left a message with a repair guy to come and replace the fried oven(bake) coil. After doing a Google search, and seeing the video by the PartSelect guy, I said, "hey I can do this". I ordered the part, it came wrapped better than my first born child, and it was a breeze to install. My wife is still in shock that I did it!

Unpluged the unit from the electrical outlet,unscrewed the unit from the back wall. I used electrical tape to hold the wires so they wouldn't go back inside the stove. Replaced the unit with the new one. Pushed the prones into the unit,put the screwes back and in now time i was finished.Quick and easy job for a lady.

Remove light bail, glass cover held by two nut screws. Pull socket, removed clips in back, replaced wire connectors, placed new socket in, then glass cover and bail. Wire connected in back, cover plate replaced.

installed new burner control w/knob. about 30 min. stove back in place. working fine

I had read some accounts of the terminal wires pulling back into the insulation, and, sure enough, one of them did before I could clip it. Even at that, pulling the stove out and removing the four nuts that held the shield in place only added another five minutes, tops. The whole thing took less than 15 minutes to change. One nut driver removes the two nuts that secure the bake element to the back of the oven, and also fits the four nuts on the shield on the back of the stove. Very easy repair, thanks to the advice given by others on this site. Thanks.

1. Pull range out from wall and disconnect power cord from outlet. 2. Remove 5 screws to remove panel on back side of range to expose the bake element connections. 3. Pull push-on terminals from element. 4. On inside of oven, remove two screws and remove old element. 5. Insert contacts end of new element through the holes in oven back wall. 6. Reverse the disassembly steps to complete the installation.

This was the second replacement glass I've bought, but I'm unsure if the first one was from PartsSelect or GE directly. It was a couple years ago when I purchased the first one. The first one popped in rather easily. I scraped out the rust and debris that had built up within the lower metal track and then inserted the glass. By pulling upwards on the door handle I had just enough room to pop it into the upper plastic tabs. The second door I bought was harder. I truly feel the second was larger. I tried the original procedure, but there was significantly more glass at the top, and I couldn't push up on the handle to even clear the handle itself. I removed the glass to re-cleaned the lower track, but it was clear of debris, so that wasn't the problem. I had to completely dismantle the outside plastic frame, insert the window and put it back together. It did fit after that, but now the door scrapes at the top ever so slightly when you shut it. Overall I'm very satisfied, since the oven is older now, but looks great again.

Disconnected power supply. Removed damaged element by releasing retainer clips and unplugging wire contacts. Replaced with new element.

Installation instructions on the partsdirect site were great. Unscrewed the (2) hex head screws that hold the element and used clamps to hold the terminal ends from recoiling back into the insulation of the oven cabinet. Put the push on terminal ends on the new element, tightened screws and done. The $50. Part fixed the problem and delayed another range purchase.

We emptied the bottom drawer and pulled out the stove, unplugged it and my wonderful son came over and installed the part in about 15 - 20 minutes. The part came without instructions, so we were glad he was around. I am glad we were able to find your service. Thanks.

After reading on the website of others doing repairs I was able to fix my oven easily. I removed the two screws on the back wall of the oven. I carefully pulled the element forward bringing with it the connector wires. Before sliding them off of the old element I made sure that they were pulled out far enough so not to loose them in the insulation. I removed the old element. Slid the connector wires on to the element. Carefully slid the element back into the back of the oven. Put the screws back in and I was done.

Removed 4 screws from back panel, disconnected small electricsl connector from sensor, removed one mounting screw from sensor inside oven,pulled wires through and removed old sensor. Fed wires for new sensor through and connected electrical connector, installed panel, installed mounting screw on sensor and checked oven, worked like a champ. Took 5 minutes.