EDW6100N20BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

In replacing the upper rack in our dishwasher, I struggled and broke one of the end caps (see previous tale of woe. With the new end caps, I finished the job in less than two minutes with no tools. BUY END CAPS when you order a rack!

Replaced wax motor and soap dispenser (all one piece). Only problem was the plastic seal on the very bottom of door had come unseated, and therefore was leaking. You need to check that it is snapped all the way in, and then the leak ceased. Took me a few tries, which made a ten minute repair into an hour long one.

After finding significant water on the floor, misdiagnosed as sump/drainage leak. Replaced inlet sump and pump connector which requires unit to be tipped on side. Otherwise straightforward. Problem was actually a failure to drain. Drain pump running, but water not removed. Each successive step in the cycle added more water, and it eventually overflowed. Had to reinstall unit to determine this, so did that twice. All drain pipes clear. Found small piece of old sump 'latex' blocking drain pump flap valve which I could have looked for when I took it out to replace the sump. Removed blockage and reinstalled. Test drain OK with small bucket of water and rinse only cycle (with water off) just in case. Alignment of the various passages while tightening clamps is important as motor weight can distort rubber parts. I tied the motor up while reassembling.

I unscrewed the screws in the door of the dishwasher. Then pulled the inside part of the door up and unscrewed the 6 screws that held the dispenser. I am not sure the correct name of the part but it is on the backside of the dispenser and is red and it is where the wires connect to it, that was probably the most difficult part, disconnecting the plastic covers from the old dispenser. I used a butter knife to pop it out and then was able to get a better grip to pull them off. I pushed the wires on the new red thing and then put the new dispenser in place. You have to make sure that the dispenser is in the right spot and the brace on the underside of the inside part of the door, is in the correct place, otherwise, you will have a leak. Which is what happened to me. I just unscrewed and opened it again and screwed the screws tighter and it was fine.

Bottom rack has 8 wheels to roll it in and out of the dishwasher for loading. Due to age and wear the wheels kept falling off when the rack was rolled. Snapped off the old wheels by hand, removed the original axle/stud and replaced with the new improved design. Just pushed it into the existing wheels and snapped back onto the rack and worked perfectly. Great inexpensive fix for an annoying problem in less than 5 minutes.

Just took off old wheels and replaced with new wheels and studs. Very simple and news wheels work great.

Using a screw driver I unlatched the door allowing it to open. Removing the 12 or so screws on the inside panel of the door allowed access to the latching mechanism. Removing the broken door latch handle, I replaced it and the new spring. Reattaching the back panel by replacing the screws the job was done.

1. Pulled the dishwasher out. 2. Removed old element fasteners and leads. 3. Installed new element and reattached fasteners and leads. 4. Pushed back in. Very simple. More work getting the dishwasher out to be able to access than actually replacing the part. The dishwasher is running great again and saved me at least 100 dollars for a service call. . Your service was just outstanding. Received multiple emails on status of shipment and a nice video for replacing. Just outstanding customer service from Part Select.

Replaced the wheel locking mechanism on all eight wheels on the lower rack, no more wheels falling off. Real easy.

It was amazingly easy repair. I just order the correct parts from “PartSelect” and installed them and done. It was fixed.

I took the old rack out of the dishwasher, took the new one out of the box it was shipped in and slid it into place. Works great. Need top one soon, but will wait until there's some extra money to order it!!!! Thanks for everything!!

Open dishwasher. Remove the screws on plastic cover of door. To cover off back of plunger replaced with new one. Reinstalled screws in door and everything worked

My dishwasher being 12 years old had accumulated a fair amount of debris/muck in the sump area located near the back beneath a plastic cage. I removed the cage and cleaned out the sump area. That solved the standing water issue for about two months and then it returned but this time the water depth was about 4 inches compared to an inch. I then changed out the "piston and nut assembly" which is a very easy repair but in my case didn't fix the problem. I then replaced the "check flapper valve" (ie check valve) located in the back and underneath where the drain line connects. That solved the problem and it is working better than it has for years. In doing this repair, one must disconnect the drain line. In so doing, I noticed the drain line was completely clogged for a distance of 12-18 inches where it connects to the garbage disposal. It took me 20 minutes to clean out the drain line. So there were probably several issues, all involving debris/muck buildup and a failed check valve that caused the standing water problem. My advice, since parts are relatively cheap, is to purchase the 1) piston and nut assembly, 2) flapper check valve, and 3) drain line if your dishwasher is fairly old or is used hard. You also will need to clean out the sump area by removing the trash rack cage. Replacing the flapper check valve is the most involved, so you may want to do the other things first to see if they solve the problem and then tackle replacement of the flapper check valve and drain line. By the way, GE parts blow-up diagrams don't even show or list the flapper check valve part. I won't have known about it if it wasn't for a post by someone else on this website. My flapper check valve was slightly torn at the hinge preventing it from seating properly. NOTE that the replacement valve was a bit oversized (it did not have the same diameter as the old valve)for the drain line opening for my particular model and it took some careful finesse to get it to stay in position while replacing the threaded cap that holds it into place. So don't be discouraged if it takes a few attempts to get it to stay in place and oriented properly when replacing the cap. The hinge should be at the top and the word "OUT" shown on the valve being visible (facing away from the dishwasher). This particular fix would be very much helped by an instructional video by this website. I am mechanically inclined so it was easy for me to figure it out but that might not be the case with others.

removed front panel and replaced new part. Timer did not work because plug kept disconnecting. Called GE service and watched him remove panel without removing control panel. Plug for timer can be installed easily and front panel replaced without disturbing cable.

Removed back of door, installed two switches, installed new soap dispenser and reinstalled back of door