EDW6000L00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

extremely easy, as parts were already assembled. Just put it in.

Immediately shut off water supply to the washer. After ordering and receipt ot part: Removed base panel, turned off power, disconnected wire, water supply line and screws attaching washer to kitchen counter. Pulled the washer out and turned it on its side with the valve on top. Removed and replaced the valve, returned the washer to the upright position, pushed it back under the counter, reconnected all services, screws to counter and base panel, turned on the water and power. Took two hours since I needed take a trip to the hardware store to replace a right angle water fitting .

Removed the screws at the inside door edges and lowered front panel. Identified placement of old part, unsnapped it from its mounting, unpluged the ribbon cable and removed the part. Installed the new part in the reverse order.

Before you due anything else...remove the water inlet valve, remove the 4 screws holding the water inlet coupling to the valve housing, remove the nylon filter (tight fit), and clean the debris from the filter. Re insert the filter, reassemble the valve housing and check for leaks. Clears most water flow problems.

Ordered the part from you and it was easy to replace.

In replacing the upper rack in our dishwasher, I struggled and broke one of the end caps (see previous tale of woe. With the new end caps, I finished the job in less than two minutes with no tools. BUY END CAPS when you order a rack!

Replaced wax motor and soap dispenser (all one piece). Only problem was the plastic seal on the very bottom of door had come unseated, and therefore was leaking. You need to check that it is snapped all the way in, and then the leak ceased. Took me a few tries, which made a ten minute repair into an hour long one.

After finding significant water on the floor, misdiagnosed as sump/drainage leak. Replaced inlet sump and pump connector which requires unit to be tipped on side. Otherwise straightforward. Problem was actually a failure to drain. Drain pump running, but water not removed. Each successive step in the cycle added more water, and it eventually overflowed. Had to reinstall unit to determine this, so did that twice. All drain pipes clear. Found small piece of old sump 'latex' blocking drain pump flap valve which I could have looked for when I took it out to replace the sump. Removed blockage and reinstalled. Test drain OK with small bucket of water and rinse only cycle (with water off) just in case. Alignment of the various passages while tightening clamps is important as motor weight can distort rubber parts. I tied the motor up while reassembling.

I unscrewed the screws in the door of the dishwasher. Then pulled the inside part of the door up and unscrewed the 6 screws that held the dispenser. I am not sure the correct name of the part but it is on the backside of the dispenser and is red and it is where the wires connect to it, that was probably the most difficult part, disconnecting the plastic covers from the old dispenser. I used a butter knife to pop it out and then was able to get a better grip to pull them off. I pushed the wires on the new red thing and then put the new dispenser in place. You have to make sure that the dispenser is in the right spot and the brace on the underside of the inside part of the door, is in the correct place, otherwise, you will have a leak. Which is what happened to me. I just unscrewed and opened it again and screwed the screws tighter and it was fine.

after checking all the list of possible causes, i took it outdoors and hooked it up to the hose and plugged it in, checking for leaks, etc.........noticed the discharge pump was heating up too hot to lay hand on it. decided that was the problem. order part, got it next day, installed in a few minutes and then reinstalled dishwasher under counter. being an amateur, i piddled around several hours before diagnosing the problem. was happy that the new motor solved it. my wife thinks i'm a hero now.

Using a screw driver I unlatched the door allowing it to open. Removing the 12 or so screws on the inside panel of the door allowed access to the latching mechanism. Removing the broken door latch handle, I replaced it and the new spring. Reattaching the back panel by replacing the screws the job was done.

Turned unit over making sure to put towels down after vacuuming up all water that I could. After that I Released two clamps and simply inserted the drain assembly tubing. Turned everything together put everything back and it worked like a charm

It was amazingly easy repair. I just order the correct parts from “PartSelect” and installed them and done. It was fixed.

took out the old rack and put the new one in.

Open dishwasher. Remove the screws on plastic cover of door. To cover off back of plunger replaced with new one. Reinstalled screws in door and everything worked