EDW5100N00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

After powering off and shutting off valves, removed dishwasher from cabinet area, laid machine onto front face, removed and replaced inlet sump and drain pump assembly and re-installed. Inlet sump a bit tricky due to the configuration and alignment of integral port. Once in place this was secured very simply. I did use a zip tie to hold the drain pump assembly in a more secure arrangement for moving the dishwasher. Rack wheels were very simple to install.

Using a screw driver I unlatched the door allowing it to open. Removing the 12 or so screws on the inside panel of the door allowed access to the latching mechanism. Removing the broken door latch handle, I replaced it and the new spring. Reattaching the back panel by replacing the screws the job was done.

Turned unit over making sure to put towels down after vacuuming up all water that I could. After that I Released two clamps and simply inserted the drain assembly tubing. Turned everything together put everything back and it worked like a charm

It was amazingly easy repair. I just order the correct parts from “PartSelect” and installed them and done. It was fixed.

Unscrewed the face plate. Unscrewed the soap dispenser, unplugged each wire from back of broken part(using pliers) and plugged into the new part. Screwed new part back on. Attached the face plate, did some cleaning around the door gasket since I was on my knees and gave it a practice run (empty)to see if soap door would open (it did). I would use this parts service again, they had what I needed and parts arrived promptly and were correct.

took out the old rack and put the new one in.

Open dishwasher. Remove the screws on plastic cover of door. To cover off back of plunger replaced with new one. Reinstalled screws in door and everything worked

My dishwasher being 12 years old had accumulated a fair amount of debris/muck in the sump area located near the back beneath a plastic cage. I removed the cage and cleaned out the sump area. That solved the standing water issue for about two months and then it returned but this time the water depth was about 4 inches compared to an inch. I then changed out the "piston and nut assembly" which is a very easy repair but in my case didn't fix the problem. I then replaced the "check flapper valve" (ie check valve) located in the back and underneath where the drain line connects. That solved the problem and it is working better than it has for years. In doing this repair, one must disconnect the drain line. In so doing, I noticed the drain line was completely clogged for a distance of 12-18 inches where it connects to the garbage disposal. It took me 20 minutes to clean out the drain line. So there were probably several issues, all involving debris/muck buildup and a failed check valve that caused the standing water problem. My advice, since parts are relatively cheap, is to purchase the 1) piston and nut assembly, 2) flapper check valve, and 3) drain line if your dishwasher is fairly old or is used hard. You also will need to clean out the sump area by removing the trash rack cage. Replacing the flapper check valve is the most involved, so you may want to do the other things first to see if they solve the problem and then tackle replacement of the flapper check valve and drain line. By the way, GE parts blow-up diagrams don't even show or list the flapper check valve part. I won't have known about it if it wasn't for a post by someone else on this website. My flapper check valve was slightly torn at the hinge preventing it from seating properly. NOTE that the replacement valve was a bit oversized (it did not have the same diameter as the old valve)for the drain line opening for my particular model and it took some careful finesse to get it to stay in position while replacing the threaded cap that holds it into place. So don't be discouraged if it takes a few attempts to get it to stay in place and oriented properly when replacing the cap. The hinge should be at the top and the word "OUT" shown on the valve being visible (facing away from the dishwasher). This particular fix would be very much helped by an instructional video by this website. I am mechanically inclined so it was easy for me to figure it out but that might not be the case with others.

removed front panel and replaced new part. Timer did not work because plug kept disconnecting. Called GE service and watched him remove panel without removing control panel. Plug for timer can be installed easily and front panel replaced without disturbing cable.

Removed back of door, installed two switches, installed new soap dispenser and reinstalled back of door

The quiet power 3 has the heating element in the back, so remove the screws holding the unit in place. Remove the bottom cover and disconnect the water inlet pipe, (after turning off the water of course). Discard the copper tubing if applicable, and pull dishwasher out until you can tilt it forward. Unsrew the plastic nuts and remove the wires for the element. Test the old one to make sure that you need to replace it. When sure of the problem reinstall in the reverse order. Replace the copper with stainless steel braided line and test.

Repairs do not get any easier than this. Remove 12 screws to disassemble door panel (be careful not to let front panel of assembly to drop or bend when screws release it). Remove 6 screws to remove old detergent dispenser. Unplug cable from old dispenser. Connect cable to new dispenser. Install new dispenser into door with 6 screws and then reassemble door panel with 12 screws making sure to keep all wiring free from pressure points.

The first thing I did was checked to make sure that it was receiving power. Once that was verified, I started a little troubleshooting for the problem I was having, and discovered the problem was more than likely the switch on the door. I followed the excellent instructions on the website -- which I really needed. I removed the 8-10 screws on the door, removed the old parts and replaced with the new ones in less than 30 min total. I am certain that I saved myself well over $100 with this quick, easy, do-it-yourself approach.

The initial problem was that the top rack was difficult to slide out. I purchased a new set of upper rollers. In order to remove the roller you must slide it off the rail. To do this, you must first remove the end cap. I broke the end original end cap trying to do this. The new roller installation was simple. So was the installation of the new end cap. Simply press it on.

I removed the eight screws around the door. Slid the inside of the door up just a little ways pulled the rubber gasket straight out to the right of the door, watched to see what direction it was attached slid the other one in on the track you can't get it wrong. Put the panel to the door in place and put the screws back. Very easy!! Thank You, Sandra Salyards