EDW4060G02SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

First, I took off all the pipe clamps and retaining brackets. Then, I pried it out of there. One of the tabs holding one of the other bits to the body got busted, but it didn't matter, as it is held on very well just by the pipe clamp connection. I stuck the new one in and re-attached all the hoses. The GIANT complication was that a new floor had been installed over the old floor, right up against the kick plate- so in order to remove the dishwasher, I had to slice open the counter, as the new floor prevented sliding it out. To prevent the problem recurring, I spray painted over the sump inlet to make it taste worse. This is the downside of a cat door.

The repair went smoothly. There were actually instructions included with the parts, so that was nice. The only "gotcha" I found was that . . . after you take off the old food-chopper, you have unscrew the old impeller from the motor shaft. This was a bit difficult and you'll want some good pliers to do it. Don't worry about stripping where the food chopper screwed on-to, that part is attached to the impeller and there is a new one on the new impeller. When I re-installed everything onto the dishwasher, it rattled the first couple of times while the wear-ring was finding it's seat. Don't worry, that's normal. It went away by the third wash. I think I still have a small crack in the pump housing, though. The pump housing is two halves of molded plastic fused together along a seam, and I think the seam is starting to leak. It's about one drop every 45 seconds. I'm thinking JB Weld will fix it.

The repair was really easy. I ordered the part needed after looking at this website. I figured out the problem by looking into the forums. I ordered the part. It came within several days. I got home from work and after dinner pulled the dishwasher from under the kitchen counter. It was easy to do. I flipped the dishwasher on its side. Then removed the old part. It had a water inlet that required a fitting to be loosened with a wrench. It also had a flexible water fill that was attached with a cable clamp. (Remember to turn your water supply off first!) The wiring was disconnected by a simple harness. Four bolts had to be removed to pull the part off of the dishwasher body.

Installation was the reverse of this process. Have been using for a week now and the problem is corrected. Doing business with Parts Select is awesome. I know that over the last several years I have saved tons of money and learned that I can fix nearly any appliance by viewing this website.

Everything snapped on quite easily. I was releaved to not have to replace "everything."

I pulled the dishwasher out and detached the drain hose. I attached the new drain hose after cleaning out the connection to the garbage disposal.

Now my dishwasher doesn't stink anymore!

I found that the supplied part did not have threads to receive the bolts that were used in the original part. I had to locate thin nuts and bolts and very awkwardly fit those in behind the part. The orignal part would have just bolted on from the front. I almost returned the part as unsatifactory, but decided to make do. Otherwise it would have been a 10 min job.

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10

Old cap was already off and had string on it. Cut the string. Placed end cap over. Used needle nose pliers to open metal rail a little and put in new cap. Locked right in. That was easy. Thanks again.

I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

My son found a water leak and cut the water supply off. He then pulled the machine from under the counter at which time I examined the valve under pressure and saw the leak. We cut the water off again and after tripping the circuit breaker we pulled the electrical connector and undid the mounting bracket which made getting the lines off the valve much simpler. New valve in hand I attached the lines and did a test then remounted the bracket and attached the electric. Easy as pie!

At first I found some water on my hardwood floor by the dishwasher, I thought that I might spilled't the day before, then it hapened again, so I remover the front lower cover for the dishwasher and I found water under the dishwasher, then I turned on the machine and I found a pin hall water leak from the water inlet valve. I turned the machine off, then I closed the water valve under the sink, then I disconected the power plug from the valve, the diconected the water supply copper pipe, then diconected the house from the valve to dishwasher, then got the part# from the valve sticker and the model# for the dishwasher from inside of the door. after that I went online and I got the valve. make sure to try more than one website because they all have differant prices, and Parts Select was the lowest one.

Took off old funnel fill and put in funnel fill gasket and new funnel fill just to have a new one.

Removed the dishwasher from the cabinet. Turned it on it's top side. Removed the exit hose from the pump with a nut driver and replaced the flapper. Reconnected the hose to the pump.

This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!

(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)

Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.

I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.

Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.

Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.

You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.

Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.