EDW4060G02SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Open the door and go along entire edge of door and use Philipps to unscrew the front panel of the door from the inside panel of the door. Once unscrewed open carefully. There are screws in the dispenser cup. Undo those and then there are two plugs to be undone. There is also the main black computer component that has to be unplugged from its cord. Just remove and screw everything back the way it was. This was my first time and I am a female age 58 years old. It was simple. If I had to do it again I could do it in less than half the time.

Replaced the water-fill solenoid valve.

Could not be easier. Pull out the old gasket, clean out the track and insert the new one. Very easy.

Pieces just snapped together. Simple an quick. Part select was wonderful in assisting.

The dishwasher repair man was here for another problem with dishwasher. He actually attached the wheels.

Hand snapped new studs into new wheels and hand snapped onto lower rack in just a few minutes. This Company had reasonable prices and delivered a head of schedule....highly recommend this Company.

Easily screwed on this part and used it for the door of the dishwasher to properly open and close

First, I wanted to insure that the drain inside the dishwasher itself was not clogged. So, I removed the lower rack, the lower spray arm, then the fine particle filter, and finally the screen over the drain. I used a small wet-dry shop vacuum to remove as much of the water as possible. Once the water was removed, I could feel that the drain was clogged with all sorts of debris. I could feel that the soft food impeller was wrapped with hair (somehow from our cat?) and other nasty stuff. I spent approximately 15 minutes cleaning the drain and the impeller. I re-installed all the components and started the wash cycle. After a minute or so, I pressed the "start" button to "cancel and drain". I could hear the drain pump come on - but no water drained from the base of the dishwasher. So while the drain and impeller needed cleaning - it was not the issue preventing the water from draining out of the tub. So, I consulted the PartSelect trouble shooting guide and read that more than likely - that the check valve flapper was the problem. So, I ordered the part and had it shipped. Once it I arrived, it used the shop vacuum to remove all the water from the base of the dishwasher. I turned off the AC power at the circuit breaker panel and shut the water off (to the dishwasher) as well. Then I had to disconnect the 3/8" diameter copper tubing feeding the inlet to the dishwasher. Also, disconnected the drain hose from the disposal. Having old bathroom towels on hand is a very good idea. There was not enough slack in the AC power line - so I did disconnect it from the dishwasher. Once these three connections were removed, I slid the dishwasher out of its space and into the center of the kitchen floor. At this point, I had a large moving blanket and placed the dishwasher on it. I then switched on the PartSelect video and watched how the check valve flapper was removed. I removed the two electrical connections (and its a good idea to mark the white receptacle with "wht" and "red/wht" as to remove any confusion when reconnecting. Then removed the two mounting screws and then the clamp. When I accessed the check valve - it did have some debris - but otherwise it didn't looked damaged. So at this point I really began to wonder if this will really solve the issue. But I continued on - I replaced the valve and then began to re-assemble the dishwasher. I re-installed the dishwasher and re-conencted the AC power line, the copper tubing inlet supply, and then the drain hose. I turned the AC power and then the water. I ran a cycle and then hot "start" to "cancel and drain". The water in the base of the dishwasher emptied immediately! So it was the check valve flapper after all.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

Online video instructions (Youtube) were clear and easy to follow with the exception of the fact that my control panel was not detachable but still fairly accessible.I needed to remove all of the scews that attached the outer door to the conrol panel and inner door panel to facilitate the replacement. Also, it takes a bit of work to make sure and maneuver around the spring loaded switch that tells the dishwasher when the handle is properly closed and latched, but it's no big deal. All in all, a good 10 to 15 minute repair.

While the information email provide both instructions and examples I did what most people might do and "attacked" it on my own. Removing parts was not difficult but the reassembly required that things be done in a specific order. Rather than simply removing the end cap on the back of the rail I removed the guide wheels. Also, I put on the back end cap before inserting it back into the guide wheels which required me to remove it. Even so, the reassembly took less than 15 minutes for a unit that is over 12 years old. Next, I will replace the baskets that have started to rust where supports have broken. Part Select has renewed my faith in my ability to fix it rather than replace it.

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

no tools needed. followed your online info. A+ on the complete transaction

Turned off power and water to dishwasher, removed kick plate to dishwasher, removed mounting bracket from frame rail of dishwasher, unplugged valve then used pliers to remove spring clamp on rubber line and used box wrench to remove water line attached to brass connection. There was a lot of calcium build up around screen and rubber O-ring and cleaning that may have fixed it but pulled off anyhow. One problem I had is that the old part would not come apart where the L-joint screwed into the collar that attaches to valve on old setup to allow new one to be bolted to it. So I looked at putting new valve on the old mounting bracket. That did not work after I got it apart as the new bracket is flat while the old is counter sunk...and the new valve has a larger footprint and would not fit flush to seal. So back to work bench and put valve in vise as the threads had plumbers pipe cement it looked like and they were tight. Got the two joints apart...cleaned with wire brush...sanded down mouth of brass collar that fits against O-Ring of new valve to make sure clean. Put teflon tape on all threads and tightened it all back up. Reconnected, plugged in, mounted to dishwasher and ran a full cycle with dishwasher pulled out so I could monitor any leakage from beginning. All is good...so slid back under sink and ran load with dishes...noticed water on floor. Freaked out...pulled it all out and valve was dry. I forgot to clean up the little bit of water that came out of lines when disconnected first time for repair... :) All is good now.

I now need to order the retainer.