EDW4000G03BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

At first, I found a metal band that was rusted and loose, replaced it but still had a leak. I went to the diagnosis section and identified another area of problem, ordered the part and got super quick delivery. With the help my wife I was able to pull apart, repair and get the unit to run and stay dry. Wife is happy because she loves the décor of our old but now dry dishwasher.

1. Pulled the dishwasher out. 2. Removed old element fasteners and leads. 3. Installed new element and reattached fasteners and leads. 4. Pushed back in. Very simple. More work getting the dishwasher out to be able to access than actually replacing the part. The dishwasher is running great again and saved me at least 100 dollars for a service call. . Your service was just outstanding. Received multiple emails on status of shipment and a nice video for replacing. Just outstanding customer service from Part Select.

Replaced the wheel locking mechanism on all eight wheels on the lower rack, no more wheels falling off. Real easy.

It was amazingly easy repair. I just order the correct parts from “PartSelect” and installed them and done. It was fixed.

Prior to starting, make sure power is off at unit by turning off breaker. Opened dishwasher and removed screws from back of door panel exposing switch. Remove screws holding switch in place. Removed electrical connections from switch and installed in reverse order of removal on new switch. Re-attached door panel and ran dishwasher cycle.

Unscrewed the face plate. Unscrewed the soap dispenser, unplugged each wire from back of broken part(using pliers) and plugged into the new part. Screwed new part back on. Attached the face plate, did some cleaning around the door gasket since I was on my knees and gave it a practice run (empty)to see if soap door would open (it did). I would use this parts service again, they had what I needed and parts arrived promptly and were correct.

drain pump change use screw drivers took me 15 minutes and save 100 bucks thanks for your instruccions

I took the old rack out of the dishwasher, took the new one out of the box it was shipped in and slid it into place. Works great. Need top one soon, but will wait until there's some extra money to order it!!!! Thanks for everything!!

My dishwasher being 12 years old had accumulated a fair amount of debris/muck in the sump area located near the back beneath a plastic cage. I removed the cage and cleaned out the sump area. That solved the standing water issue for about two months and then it returned but this time the water depth was about 4 inches compared to an inch. I then changed out the "piston and nut assembly" which is a very easy repair but in my case didn't fix the problem. I then replaced the "check flapper valve" (ie check valve) located in the back and underneath where the drain line connects. That solved the problem and it is working better than it has for years. In doing this repair, one must disconnect the drain line. In so doing, I noticed the drain line was completely clogged for a distance of 12-18 inches where it connects to the garbage disposal. It took me 20 minutes to clean out the drain line. So there were probably several issues, all involving debris/muck buildup and a failed check valve that caused the standing water problem. My advice, since parts are relatively cheap, is to purchase the 1) piston and nut assembly, 2) flapper check valve, and 3) drain line if your dishwasher is fairly old or is used hard. You also will need to clean out the sump area by removing the trash rack cage. Replacing the flapper check valve is the most involved, so you may want to do the other things first to see if they solve the problem and then tackle replacement of the flapper check valve and drain line. By the way, GE parts blow-up diagrams don't even show or list the flapper check valve part. I won't have known about it if it wasn't for a post by someone else on this website. My flapper check valve was slightly torn at the hinge preventing it from seating properly. NOTE that the replacement valve was a bit oversized (it did not have the same diameter as the old valve)for the drain line opening for my particular model and it took some careful finesse to get it to stay in position while replacing the threaded cap that holds it into place. So don't be discouraged if it takes a few attempts to get it to stay in place and oriented properly when replacing the cap. The hinge should be at the top and the word "OUT" shown on the valve being visible (facing away from the dishwasher). This particular fix would be very much helped by an instructional video by this website. I am mechanically inclined so it was easy for me to figure it out but that might not be the case with others.

removed front panel and replaced new part. Timer did not work because plug kept disconnecting. Called GE service and watched him remove panel without removing control panel. Plug for timer can be installed easily and front panel replaced without disturbing cable.

The quiet power 3 has the heating element in the back, so remove the screws holding the unit in place. Remove the bottom cover and disconnect the water inlet pipe, (after turning off the water of course). Discard the copper tubing if applicable, and pull dishwasher out until you can tilt it forward. Unsrew the plastic nuts and remove the wires for the element. Test the old one to make sure that you need to replace it. When sure of the problem reinstall in the reverse order. Replace the copper with stainless steel braided line and test.

Repairs do not get any easier than this. Remove 12 screws to disassemble door panel (be careful not to let front panel of assembly to drop or bend when screws release it). Remove 6 screws to remove old detergent dispenser. Unplug cable from old dispenser. Connect cable to new dispenser. Install new dispenser into door with 6 screws and then reassemble door panel with 12 screws making sure to keep all wiring free from pressure points.

Simply screwed in the new rinse aid cap to replace the old one

The initial problem was that the top rack was difficult to slide out. I purchased a new set of upper rollers. In order to remove the roller you must slide it off the rail. To do this, you must first remove the end cap. I broke the end original end cap trying to do this. The new roller installation was simple. So was the installation of the new end cap. Simply press it on.

Snapped axle into wheel. Slid wheel onto wheel peg of lower dishrack. Snapped wheel onto rack. No tools required. Like these wheels better than original.