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EDW1500J00CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

All Instructions for the EDW1500J00CC
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Small leak at the bottom of dishwasher
Removed existing gasket seal on door. Cleaned really well with a household cleaner around the gasket crease. Installed new gasket seal around door. Started with small notch in the middle of the gasket to center on top and then slowly fastened into door edge and slowly snug around bottom edge where the deal is notched and the the difficult part was to feel the seam again on the bottom to re attach seal after notch from corner. Rupert this on the other side of door.
Parts Used:
Door Gasket - White
  • Harry from Bayside, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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multiple rust spots on the old rack
Original part no longer made. Substitute too small by a half an inch. Corrected the problem by removing the 4 corner wheels from the old rack and put them on the new one. Now, it fits and works perfectly.
Parts Used:
Silverware Basket (Grey)
  • Clifford from Saint Louis,, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Rollers wore out
I followed the video instructions..I was concerned that the end pieces would be a problem, so I purchased replacements also, but they came off with no problem - thanks to the video.They only cost about $2.50, so I will keep them in stock in case I need them at a later date.Without the video, it probably would have driven me nuts trying to figure out how to remove the end pieces, but when you see it done, it was simple.....Thanks Loads.
Parts Used:
Upper Roller and Axle - Kit of 4 RACK SLIDE END CAP
  • Joe from Langhorne, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Dishwasher would not drain.
I cleaned all the drains in the dishwasher and the drain in the garbage disposal that leads from the dishwasher. I also removed the piston and nut assembly and tried cleaning it but the dishwasher still did not drain. I was using a wet vac to empty the standing water after the cycle completed. I bought the new piston and nut assembly. It arrived in 24 hours. I unscrewed the 4 screws in the back of the dishwasher that held the screen that covered the assembly, used my hand to unscrew the piston and nut assembly, screwed in the new part and replaced the screen and 4 screws. It completely fixed the problem.
Parts Used:
Piston and Nut Assembly
  • Jo from Herndon, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Roller axles worn down
Removed rack by twisting and pulling off the plastic ends of the upper roller tracks. Removed old wheels from track and discarded. Removed old wheel assemblies from rack with fingernail. Replaced wheel assemblies on rack with the new ones. Alligned rack with tracks and pushed back into the dishwasher. Replaced plastic track ends with opposite action required for removal. Job completed.
Parts Used:
Upper Roller and Axle - Kit of 4
  • Dean from Mountain Home, AR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Pump was leaking from the shaft seal
Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.
Parts Used:
Impeller and Seal Kit
  • Anthony from Mechanicville, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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spray arm clips were broken that held it in place.
easy......unscrew the old one...clean the threads make sure there is no broken piece of part where its installs....take new part screw it in.....hand tight....check it for clearance......and thats it.....
Parts Used:
Lower Spray Arm with Tower
  • Karen from Bowie, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dishwasher was leaking behind the door
First open the door and look at the corner tub baffles. They are in the bottom corners where the door seals with the tub and they look alike. Remove and replace one at a time making note of the orientation. Make sure they are firmly seated in the bottom and close the door and enjoy.
Parts Used:
Corner Tub Baffle - Lower Left Corner Tub Baffle - Lower Right
  • Teddy from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Rubber piston on check valve was almost completely gone. Water backed up finally to the point of overflowing on kitchen floor.
Simply followed the instructions for the part on the part page. One thing that helped taking out some screws was to remove a couple of the brackets that hold the heating element and move it slightly. I would suggest cleaning all of the gunk out of drains and clean all holes in the screens using a toothpick, etc. Be careful not to overtighten the nut for the next time you have to do this!
Parts Used:
Piston and Nut Assembly
  • Ken from Central Square, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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Water leaking under dishwasher.
I first shut off the power to dishwasher, then shut off water and disconnected the water supply line. Then pulled the washer out from under counter and layed it face down. Undid the hose clamp from sump housing and clamp for wash arm rubber connector. Disconnected screw for the motor brace. Motor swung out of way. Pulled out sump housing and cleaned the edges of the hole. Pushed housing threw bottom and got it to seat in the groove inside the washer. I then unscrewed the rubber for the wash arm and cleaned those areas too. Screwed the new connector on and made it tight, old one was loose. Moved the motor back and reconnected hose clamps and reattached the motor support bracket. Stood washer back up and pushed it back under the counter. Reconnect water line and turned water back on to make sure it was not leaking. Turned power back on to washer. Then poured a large pot of water into washer and turned on and kept checking for leaks but there were none. Finished putting cover plates back on and the washer was done. Then I had to replaced some of the flooring that was damaged from the leaking of these two parts.
Parts Used:
Pump To Wash Arm Rubber Connector Sump Housing
  • Louis from Dover, DE
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Broken clips
Clipped in new wheels and clips
Parts Used:
Lower Front Dishrack Wheel
  • Michael from Novi, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Tub leaking at base of door
Really simple. Remove old corner baffles by just lifting out and replace with new. Close door to insure the door seal aligns with the new baffles and good to go.
Parts Used:
Corner Tub Baffle - Lower Left Corner Tub Baffle - Lower Right
  • David from Parish, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dishes cloudy, spotting
Unscrew old stripped out one and put in new one ..wala!! Easy repair for this old lady...
Parts Used:
Rinse Aid Fill Cap
  • David from Bradenton, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Hing arm broke
Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...
Parts Used:
Hinge Arm Link
  • Peter from Davenport, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Water leaking on floor from valve base where it mounts to bracket.
Turned off power and water to dishwasher, removed kick plate to dishwasher, removed mounting bracket from frame rail of dishwasher, unplugged valve then used pliers to remove spring clamp on rubber line and used box wrench to remove water line attached to brass connection. There was a lot of calcium build up around screen and rubber O-ring and cleaning that may have fixed it but pulled off anyhow. One problem I had is that the old part would not come apart where the L-joint screwed into the collar that attaches to valve on old setup to allow new one to be bolted to it. So I looked at putting new valve on the old mounting bracket. That did not work after I got it apart as the new bracket is flat while the old is counter sunk...and the new valve has a larger footprint and would not fit flush to seal. So back to work bench and put valve in vise as the threads had plumbers pipe cement it looked like and they were tight. Got the two joints apart...cleaned with wire brush...sanded down mouth of brass collar that fits against O-Ring of new valve to make sure clean. Put teflon tape on all threads and tightened it all back up. Reconnected, plugged in, mounted to dishwasher and ran a full cycle with dishwasher pulled out so I could monitor any leakage from beginning. All is good...so slid back under sink and ran load with dishes...noticed water on floor. Freaked out...pulled it all out and valve was dry. I forgot to clean up the little bit of water that came out of lines when disconnected first time for repair... :) All is good now.
Parts Used:
Water Inlet Valve
  • Ronald from Charleston, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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All Instructions for the EDW1500J00CC
721 - 735 of 778