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ED5LTAXVL00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for ED5LTAXVL00 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the ED5LTAXVL00
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Ice crusher dispenser motor burnt out

  • Customer: David from Corinth TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 32 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
If you've ever replaced a computer hard drive - you can do this too. I didn't even unload the freezer. It really is about 10-15 minutes of work. I ordered the recommended replacement part - which was a newer part#. It's best to remove the shelf barrier under the ice dispenser assembly (pops off) for ease of access - the motor hatch is a bit awkwardly placed. Removing 2 x 1/4" screw nuts pops off the lower hatch on the underside of the ice dispenser assembly.
Inside, remove the wire connector + 4 x 1/4 nut driver screws and the whole motor is released, while the hex drive shaft remains attached to the dispenser assembly. No sweat so far. The new motor pops in the same way the old one came out - you might need to give the top of the hex drive shaft a twist to align. A powered nut-driver is recommended to do all of this yoga 2 feet off the floor with only 2 hands. Secure the 4 nut screws and reconnect the wire connector and you're almost done. But wait - read the directions and you notice that there's a rubber washer that has been introduced to prevent water leeching into the motor. @$%^ - didn't see that little thing in the shipping box - ok so I get to do this twice... don't make the same mistake. Attach that rubber washer to the hex shaft. Then, reattach the panel with 2 more nut screws and you really are done. Now dispense some fresh ice into that rum & coke. Ahhh.

my icemaker stopped working. I think the motor was too weak to release the cubes

  • Customer: Keith from St. Peters MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 30 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
Removed two screws and popped loose the ice door. Disconnected the single electrical connector. Slid out the old, slide in the new. It worked like a charm. - Still dissappointed that the whirlpool icemaker broke after only 2 years, but the new one works great!

Ice maker quit working

  • Customer: James from Puyallup WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
First called the Sears repairman out (big mistake). I was worried it was something with the water line, but he ran some diagnostics and got it working. It did make one batch of ice. Cost $140 for the visit. The "fix" was short lived, since it immediately quit working again. After doing lots of reading online, all I could gather was that the main wheel inside was out of alignment/sync. Sears has a 90-day warranty on repairs, so we called them back. Of course, their warranty only covers their previous repair only, but at least we wouldn't get charged the $55 fee just to have them come out. Second repairman said there was a broken part inside the icemaker assembly, and it would cost over $320 to fix this time ($230 for the part, $70 for labor, plus tax). We politely declined. Found a whole new icemaker assembly from PartSelect for $68. Once it arrived, it was literally just three screws/bolts holding in the entire assembly, unplug the wire chassis, just like a computer motherboard, insert new assembly, plug in wire assembly, put screws back in. Works like a champ...

refrigerator stopped cooling, otherwise fine

  • Customer: Roger from Bethesda MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
Well first of all, I was afraid that the compressor was shot and I'd need a whole new refrigerator (ack $1000!!!). After googling/reading, I figured out that the starter relay mounted on the compressor was burned out. (loud click as thermal cutout shuts down compressor.) So, I ordered a replacement part, overnight shipping. Unfortunately, this was on a Friday night, so I had to figure out how to keep the fridge cold all weekend (til Tuesday). I'd already moved frozen stuff to a chest freezer, but the inside of the fridge compartment was now nearly warm at this point, so I got 10 lb of dry ice. That got things cooled down initially. Well, turns out that with a short piece of wire, you can momentarily jump across the terminals of the relay and kick start the compressor. It then runs until either the defrost cycle stops it or the thermostat kicks it off. Anyway, all weekend, every six hours or so, I turned off the fridge for a minute to cool down the overheated, stalled compressor, then turned it on and jumped the terminals to start it up. Kind of a pain, but saved lots of food. Overall, the $30+$30 (shipping) for the part saved me from having to get a new refrigerator, so I'm quite pleased. I've used Part Select many times now. Very fast service and shipping, great website/database. I shop around and every time end up buying from them again.

Ice door was broken

  • Customer: Ray from San Antonio TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
1) At bottom of ice maker trim there are two small slots at right and left ; use screw driver to pry away from door; lift trim upward away from door 2)using 1/4" nutdriver remove screws from 4 corners, 3) remove 2 screws from control panel 4) disconnect all wires/cables and set exterior panel aside. 5) locate 2" pin that runs through door spring and use needle nose pliers to remove round clip on left end of pin don't lose this clip 6) while pushing ice maker lever (where you would push with your glass) use needle nose to pull the long pin out to the right 7) Remove all remaining parts by hand (i.e. the pin, the dash pot and white lever and the ice door) 8)slide new control lever into slots on exterior side of the new door 9) -tricky part- using needle nose, push pin back through the right hinge point, the new lever, the new door, the new spring and the left hinge point (note the new door has no electric wire connector) 10) using the needle nose, carefully replace the little round clip on the left end of the metal pin. 11) reconnect all the wires (don't worry about the wire that had been connected to the door wire, just fold it aside) 12) replace two screws screws in control panel and four screws at corners of exterior panel 13) snap outer trim panel back in place.

Drawer Broke

  • Customer: Brian from Fort Collins CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 24 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I first opened a beer to gain some liquid courage. The crowd (dog and 2yr old) were anxiously watching while I first grabbed hold of the refrigerator door. The door swung open with a mighty roar exposing the huge gaping whole where the previous crisper pan once shelved itself in glory. I took aim, and slid that new crisper pan in like it was meant to be. The crowd went nuts...but probably because the tv commercial was over and Sesame Street was back on. Thanks partselect!

REFRIGERATOR WASN'T COOLING,EVAPORATER COIL FREEZING UP

  • Customer: Robert from Doral FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
I have a side by side so in order to access the bi-metal switch I first had to empty out the freezer. The switch is clipped on to the top of the evaporator coil. I had to remove 8 screws to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment.
The bi-metal switch was right there in plain view. There are two colored wires that come out of the switch. I tried pulling them out of the socket they were plugged into but gave up for fear of breaking something. I ended up cutting the wires and splicing them together. I used the plastic twist caps. I made sure when I closed everything back up that the open end of the caps were pointing down so no water can accumulate in them. It has been 3 days now and so far so good

KITCHEN AID SIDE-BY-SIDE REFRIGERATOR ICE-MAKER stopped working due to a broken motor assembly.

  • Customer: ANDREW from DURANGO CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Changing the KITCHENAID MOTOR ASSEMBLY TO THE ICE-MAKER was fairly straightforward. The hardest part was figuring out WHAT was broken and how to fix it. I was determined to save myself hundreds of dollars by doing it myself and avoiding a visit by the 'repairman'.

1.) Went to KitchenAid website to look at Parts List for my side-by-side refrigerator and ice maker assembly (a PDF file, easily downloadable) . The illustrations helped me visualize the assembly and various parts involved.
2.) Removed cover on front of ice maker.
3.) Removed hex-head screw on undersurface of icemaker on the right, which stablilizes a plastic cover for the electrical connector to the ice maker. Once this is off, it's then possible to slide the ice maker out.
4.) Slide the ice maker out from it's 'shelf' in the freezer. You won't be able to completely remove it until you disconnect the power supply.
5.) Disconnect the multi-pin power connector. (It's probably safest to unplug the refrigerator altogether before doing this, but I did not. No exposed metal wiring or connectors. No problems when I did it this way.)
6.) Once the ice-maker was out, remove the white cover from the motor assembly (on the left side of the unit).
7.) Remove the three screws from the black housing of the motor assembly. (This is where I discovered that the connector between the motor and drive-train was broken and needed to be replaced.)
8.) Remove and replace the drive system for the ice cube ejector.
9.) Then reverse the steps to reassemble.

This may seem a bit vague, but it's really quite straightforward once the ice maker is out of the freezer. The replacement motor assembly includes the motor, the motor housing, the drive-train, and the ice-cube ejector. Very easy to re-asemble.

Shopping for and ordering the part took some time since there are so many different after-market parts dealers. In all honesty, I'm glad I decided on PartSelect.com. They had a decent price, safe checkout, and timely delivery. All the essentials of a good online store.

Thanks, and good luck to the next guy who has to deal with a KitchenAid snafu.

No Ice, Water did not fill icemaker

  • Customer: Barbara from Davenport IA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 28 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
We weren't sure if the problem was in the Water Inlet Valve or in the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. The water in the door did work. We removed the Water Inlet Valve & tested it with an Ohm Meter. It tested good so we put it back in. We then ordered the Icemaker Control & Motor Assembly. When it arrived we installed it and waited a few hours but the icemaker still did not fill with water. We telephoned a parts store and were told the problem could be the thermostat or we could replace the whole icemaker. We replaced the whole icemaker.

Ice dispenser would not dispense ice through the door

  • Customer: Larry from Garner NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the frig, and turned offed the water and ice dispenser using the on/off panel switch. I removed the panel by inserting a small flat blade screwdriver at the bottom of the panel where the plastic studs locked the panel in place. By inserting a little upward pressure, the panel popped right ouff. The Micro Switch was very easy to remove and replace. Just make sure that the plunger on the ice dispenser makes solid contact with the switch when depressed.

Ice maker not initiating harvest cycle (not making ice)

  • Customer: John from Elgin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
My troubleshooting narrowed down the problem to either the control assembly or the thermostat, so I bought both just in case. The motor assembly fixed the problem and I didn't need to install the thermostat.

The main thing I want to tell others who are doing this repair, however, relates to the thermostat. If you do indeed need to replace the thermostat (#PS380941) there is something you will need that is not included with the part or mentioned anywhere on this site. The instructions with the thermostat indicate you need to apply something called "Aluminastic" to the thermostat when installing it. I don't know about you, but that isn't something I have around the house, so be sure to order a tube of it when you get the thermostat so you don't have to take a trip to the store to get it to finish the repair.

Our Refrigerator and freezer stopped working

  • Customer: Anna from Lincoln RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I had read on a fix it site that the start device for the compressor on this particular model was known to fail after 3-5 years. When we received the part it looked like something that just plugged into the compressor. My husband unscrewed the panel in the back of the fridge and saw the part on the compressor. He first removed the three wires that it was connected to, and the wires were inside a plug so all he had to do was remove the plug from the start device. He then removed the old start device from the compressor. Plugged in the wire plug into the new start device, and pushed in the new start device into the compressor. There was also another black part plugged into the old start device that he plugged inot the new start device that connected to the compressor. Our freezer and refrigerator starting working. Within a couple of hours our freezer had made ice.

freezer freezes but refridge is warm

  • Customer: Richard from owasso OK
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 21 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
refridge never cooled good,replaced termostat and circuit board, works great probably over kill but better than waiting on parts. Very easy job, drop over head control panel , remove thermo very carefully after unhooking linkage to freezer vent to fridge, be carefull not to bend linkage, you will also have to remove 2 covers that shield thermo conduit for thermo that go to back of fridge. Board is very easily replaced when sitting on table but 1 plug gave me problems trying to release the plug, {hint} move side to side instead of moving up and down . The themo stat sencing tube install is kind of trickie too , just straighten the tube totally before trying to remove or reinstall the new sencing tube, you can form it during restlall in the fridge . It was good to see that fridge cooling back down to 34 degrees on less than mid setting. YAHOOOOOO

food freezing in the refrigerator

  • Customer: Garry from Ochelata OK
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the front panel strip where the temperature adjustment lights show, use a thin screw driver to pot the strip out along the top. Use a nut driver to remove the control panel which contains the light, two bolts on the under side, two bolts on the front after the panel strip was removed. The control panel will hang down enough with the wires attached to allow access to the thermostat. Use a Phillips screw driver to remove the side cover where the temperature probe runs along the left hand side to the unit, one screw. You will find the temperature probe inside plastic tubing running to the back of the unit where it is wrapped around a Styrofoam holder with three plastic retainer clips on the top and bottom. Unplug the thermostat from its electrical connection. You may want to unplug the unit’s wall plus as this is 110 volt connection. Remove the two screws holding the thermostat to the plastic control panel; remove the fiber optic connection to the light strip that runs across the top of the thermostat. Remove the temperature probe from the 6 clips and pull the entire unit out. Remove the plastic tube from the old temperature probe and slide it over the probe from the new thermostat. The probe is approximately 26 inches long and you must take care not to crimp it as you slide it in the plastic tubing(warm the plastic tube with a hair dryer to reduce stiffness at the bend). Plug the wires into the new thermostat and reassemble.

plastic gear broke off - cubes not getting kicked out

  • Customer: Laurence from Middleton WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
removed the three screw holding the broken unit - pulled off the old module.

Before I could install new module I had to loosen some fasteners on ice maker so I could turn shaft to align with new module.

Then push on new unit and three screws. Had tumbling ice in about an hour. My wife thinks I'm a hero. (I am)
All Instructions for the ED5LTAXVL00
31-45 of 1228