E30EW7CGSS3 Electrolux Wall Oven - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

This was the first time replacing the fan. It is a lot easier to work in the oven compartment with the oven door removed, only two screws on the door and the hinges were released. I found that a couple of the screws were either rusted or stripped so I used a pair of pliers to remove the screws that were holding the diffuser in place. Once there was access to the fan I found that the fan was warped and that the blades were scraping against the back wall of the oven. The next challenge was to remove the retaining nut. I used a sheet metal screw to secure the warped fan to keep it from spinning. once I figured out that you have to turn the retaining nut to the right to loosen, it came off easily. 1/2" socket with extension. When I replace the fan I used two washers for spacers to make sure that the fan would not scrape the wall of the oven. Its been tested many times and the oven does not make that horrible sound anymore.

Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.

Wife was cooking our thanks giving turkey, when an oder of burning was noticed. I walked over to the oven and smelled the area of oven light, it was bad. I turned off and unpluged oven. Got a screw driver, unscrewed 4 screws then noticed the burned switch from under the oven top. removed 3 wires, covered w/ elec. tape, and pulled oven light switch out front. looked at part number and ordered online. We were able to cook our turkey and enjoyed our meal.

I searched the web for a replacement and Parts Select had a picture and part number for the exact same probe. I ordered the probe and it arrived very quickly. The problem was that the probe I received didn't match the picture as shown on the web site. Instead I received a probe that was a different color and the actual probe was about 2" shorter than the one I was replacing. I called customer service and was told that the probe I received was the new version that the older version was discontinued. If they had updated their pictures on the web site I would not have ordered the probe. Parts Select customer service did apologize for the issue and offered to have me return for a refund.

I will order from Parts Select but I will call first to verify that the item pictured is the actual item being shipped. Parts Select please update the part pictures to show the actual items being sold.

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Troubleshoot element by disconnecting the element leads from relay board and test for acceptable resistance across leads. In my case the element had tested open with no resistance.

******You may not need to remove oven depending on how the framing under the oven is constructed.

**** Before you begin, disconnect power from the oven.

1.Remove two screws under oven, directly below rear of element door, and remove the metal piece the screws held in place. This will free up the back of the element access door panel.
2.Remove front trim strip on front bottom of oven, this will expose two screws directly behind trim strip. Remove the two screws behind the trim strip. This will free up the front of the element access door.
3. Lower element access door. If you can open the element door enough to disconnect the element wire leads and get the element out, you can swap out the element now and will not need to pull your oven out of the wall. If you can't open the access panel to fully access and replace element, slide the oven out until you can get the access door open and prop the front of the oven up on something sturdy you have laying around. In my case it was the good old yeti cooler. I would seriously consider removing the oven doors before you slide the oven out. It will make the oven alot less tippy by removing the weight from the front off the appliance. The element wires are short, you may need to disconnect them to get the element access door all the way open.
4. Install the new element and reassemble using these instructions in reverse order.
5. Reconnect power.
6. Make a batch of cookies.

on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have

Remove two screws in back to release the top.
Lift the top from the back and pull backwards to remove.
Open washer door and unscrew two screws to release the switch.
Reach down inside from the front and remove the switch.
Unplug the switch and replace with the new one. Reverse the process to install.
I found it easier to have someone hold the switch while I screwed it back in.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Took 3 panels off to get to the electric block. Replaced electrical block and put it back together. Still no change.

I found the part online with a diagram of the oven with the broken part listed as a replaceable item. I ordered the part and in two days my oven was back cooking like new. Thanks