Models > E23CS75DSS5 > Instructions

E23CS75DSS5 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for E23CS75DSS5 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the E23CS75DSS5
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Broken water actuater

  • Customer: Daniel from Apollo Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the other instruction listed.

1. Took off the outer cover and water drip tray.
2. Took off the outer circuit board (DID NOT DISCONNECT it)
3. Disconnected the black paddle holder, but DID NOT DISCONNECT the water tube.
4. As I did not disconnect the water tube I had to very slightly east it PARTIALLY out.
5. There are two screws that hold the sides of the paddle legs in. To rempve these screws I used a phillips screwdriver.
6. After removing these two screws you can remove the broken water actuator.
7. There is a small plastic aligning tip on the left hand side wher the metal covers sit on the actuator fiengers. NOTE THIS NEEDS TO BE REMOVED as I could not get the left actuator fienger to pop over it. I removed it with a needle nose pliers. After removing the tip the actuator poped right into its slot.
8. You cannot hold the two screws and the covers so I used a little piece of chewing gum to hold the cover to the screw and the screw to the screwdriver. It worked great.
9. Then I put the unit back together in reverse order... it functioned better than before.

WATER WASN'T FILLING ICE TRAY TO MAKE ICE.

  • Customer: Linda from Belmont OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
UNPLUGED THE ITEM. TURNED OFF THE WATER SOURCE. REMOVED THE CARD BOARD COVER. DIS-CONNECTED THE WATER HOSES. UNPLUGED THE CONNETORS. MATCHED UP THE COLORES AND PUT IT BACK TOGETHER, VERY EASY. EVERYTHINGS WAS COLOR CODED.

No water flow to in-door water/ice dispenser

  • Customer: Richard from St. Louis MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
Unscrewed the water line cover. Removed the platic case around the water filter base. Everything went well until I tried to remove the two water hoses. After I finally figured out that I had to push in the release washer while pulling the hoses out, things went well. Unfortunately it took several hours of wasted time and several searches on the internet to finally figure this part out. From there on out it went smoothly. Old base came out with two screws. Reversed process for reinstall of new base. Water hoses just slipped back into place and locked themselves in. Just takes a little patience.

Water coming out of the ice maker when dispensing water from the door.

  • Customer: kyle from Palo Alto CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 22 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
This issue was noted in the advice area as being a filter, or valve assembly. But it turned out to be a diode kit that was causing this issue. I don't know why I could not find this issue anywhere on line? When I received the diode kit there was instructions that noted exactly the problem I was having.
The fix was easy just a few wires cut and spliced and viola fixed.

Water leak

  • Customer: Russell from Jacksonville AR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 18 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug turn water off
Removed two screws with nut driver loosen one
Disconnected three solenoid valves
Disconnected four water lines
Plug tubing in, tighten one flare fitting
Reattach wires to solenoids
Slide under loose screw, replace two screws
Turn water on check for leaks plug in get a drink of water

ice maker cycling properly but not getting water on fill cycle

  • Customer: Terrance from Orland Park IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
1.Unplugged appliance. Removed rear access panel, turned off water supply valve, removed two screws holding water valve assembly in place.
2. Removed and drained all water lines.
3. Removed three electric solenoid wiring connections.
4.Cut and marked all water lines to facilitate new connecting procedure (instructions provided with the new valve assembly).
5. Inserted the water lines into the new valve by applying a bit of vaseline on tubing end prior to pushing lines into O-ring fittings.
6. Clean the embarassing dust from under the appliance!!!

Note: All lines, wiring, and valves were color-coded to prevent connecting to wrong lines and electric solenoids.

Note: Be sure to remove water inlet supply trough to rear of ice-maker. This tube may freeze solid and prevent water from filling freeze tray. This is done by turning the inlet pipe on the back of the cabinet 1/4 turn and retracting from cabinet.

The ice chute door didn't close all the timed

  • Customer: Shelby from Clinton IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.

Ice Maker quit making ice

  • Customer: Mike from Maineville OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
This could not have been easier. I came to this website looking to see how much the part was before i called a repairman to come do it. I saw everyones instructions and decided to try it myself. To replace the ice maker you basically unscrew 2 screws, unplug the broken one and remove it. Plug in the new and tighten the screws to hold it in place. I would have been REALLY unhappy if i had called a repairman and saw that was how it was done.
Could not have been easier

ice maker would not rotate out cube or crushed ice.

  • Customer: David from Ponca City OK
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
1. Remove outer plastic face cover (4) screws.

2. Revove (1) U type nut keeper & (1) metal washer.

3. Remove (1) plastic nut on end of metal auger.

4. Remove inner plastic cover (4) screws and disconnect control rod. (Note postion of control rod befor disconnecting)

5. Note position and order of metal blades and plastic spacers on auger before siding off the end of auger to reposition them upon re-assembly.

6. Remove metal support panel from end of ice bucket (4) screws.

7. Remove auger & plastic cylinder from ice bucket.

8. Remove - slide drive blade off auger.

9. Drive blade replaced.

10. Re-assembled other items removed in reverse order

Refrigerator would not go into Defrost

  • Customer: Robert from North Chesterfield VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
When I first noticed that my refrigerator coil was iced up, I read a little bit about the defrost cycle of a refrigerator. I decided to try replacing the least expensive parts first. First I tried the defrost themostat, it was a very easy repair. My coil still froze up after a couple of days. Then I learned how to force my fridge into a defrost mode (on a frigidaire you just click the light button in the fridge 5 times in under 6 seconds). Then I noticed that the defrost heater was not heating up...this repair was more difficult. You have to first remove the two shelves, bin, and tracks. Then you remove the back panel...4 screws. Then you have to take out a couple of screws and drill out one rivet on the drain pan and pull the drain pan out so you can get the defrost heater which snakes up through the coil from the bottom of the coil. Be careful, as the drain pan and coil fins are very sharp, I sliced a couple fingers messing around with these parts. The defrost heater itself is relatively easy to put in once the coil is in the right position (there are videos on youtube on how to do this). After I put in the new heating element, and buttoned everything back up, I was excited to check my work...I forced the fridge into defrost by clicking the light switch 5 times, and the heater still didn't come on! It dawned on me that this problem started about 5 days after a major power outage (hurricane Irene)...When the power came on, it must have surged, and zapped the defrost control board...Long story short, I replaced the control board (about $75.00 from partselect.com) and my problem is fixed...at least I have a 100% brand new defrost system now...Of course it won't be too long until my wife wants another fridge to match her Stainless Steel applicances...oh well, this one will do fine in the garage.

The plastic lever of the "in door" water despenser broke off

  • Customer: Nathan from Beaverton OR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The tray at the bottome of the "in door" unit pulls straight out. I then removed the 3 screws at the bottom, shifted the cover upwards...and removed it from the fridge door. You then have to remove the green circuit board to get at the actuator. The tricky part is the water line feed...there's not much slack at all and it's hard to get at. I ended up removing the entire assembly to put the new actuator on. When it came time to reassemble...I disconnected the 4 wire connectors (two brown, an orange, and I forget the other) so I could have enough room for my fingers to grab the water line and insert it back. The connectors were easy to reconnet w/ needle nose plyers. (make sure you diagram them before you remove...so they can be reattached correctly). Putting it back together was pretty easy. It all works...lights, buttons, etc. so I must have done it right.

Ice Maker overflowing water

  • Customer: Richard from Marco Island FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
When the ice maker is over filling, either the valve is defective or clogged, or the ice maker is at fault signaling the valve to stay open too long. My problem was the latter. I had already replaced the valve, thinking that being only 2 years old, how could the ice maker be faulty. I was wrong. Ice maker unplugs and comes out with 2 screws. A quick swap with the new ice maker and all is well. Simple

Ice maker quit making ice

  • Customer: Warren from Ottumwa IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
turned off water supply at water line to fridge. removed two hex head screws @ bottom of rear of appliance that hold the water valve in place.
Simply moved color coded elect. plugs from old one to new one, same with water lines. Only difference is, the replacement one I got uses push in water lines and my original was compression fit. No problem though, just cut the nipple off of original line going into new valve and you are good to go. Might want to have an extra 1/'4" brass compression washer though for the one remaining line. Whole process I did on my lunch break at home less than 30 minutes.
Only problem though was nothing changed. Spoke with service man over the phone and he said MOST of the time it is water freezing up in the inlet tube top of machine, inside. Remove water line from rear outside on top behind freezer and with a straw try to blow through, if it is froze it will not go through. Mine did not go through. Used hair dryer inside freezer in back on incoming line 5-10 minutes,thawed out, makes ice. Go figure. Changing valves was easy and well described as stated, just not necessary in my case, but now I know. Thanks, Warren in Iowa

The radiator was not defrosting.

  • Customer: Alfredo from Mount Pleasant SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.

Refrig door would not close automatically

  • Customer: Michael from Lithia FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the plastic/nylon piece on the door. First, I remove the door hinge cover by unscrewing the one bolt. Second, unbolted the two bolts that hold the door in place. Third, lifted the door off the bottom hinge. Four, remove the bottom plate that is held in place by 3 screws. Five, using pliers move the old plastic piece from the bottom of the door. Six, press into place the replacement part. Seven, re-install the bottom plate. Eight, rehang the door on the bottom hinge. Nine, restall the top hinge and rebolt the two bolts that hold the hinge in place. Ten, reinstall the top cover. Finished.
All Instructions for the E23CS75DSS5
16-30 of 398