E23CS75DSS4 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

most importantly on the page with the necessary part..cripser support for the refrigerator--- there was a brief insructional video on how to properly dislodge the broken part and replace it with the new showing the simple tools needed. I am not handy at all but it took me all of two minutes thanks to the helpful video.

- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig
- Disconnected elect wires
- Reconnected elect wires to new light socket
- Snapped new socket in place
- Done in less than 2 min.

I checked the dampener, it worked. The compressor and fan worked. I knew because my freezer was still hovering around 10 degrees. Coils were clean. Thermistor was the only thing it could be. Took all my shelves out. Removed four screws. Took the back panel off. The thermistor sits tucked in on the side. I piped it out, in clipped it. Used my multimeter to test the numbers. Numbers were off just a bit. Ordered the part. Crossed my fingers.,took less then 5 minutes to put the part in. Plugged in the fridge. It was sitting at 33 degrees in about an hour and a half. I can’t believe I fixed it. I knew NOTHING about refrigerators. For how big my fridge is, it would have cost 3,000 and up to get a new one with the same cu ft size. Instead, it cost me $44. That includes shipping. Thank you Parts Select!! Made it so easy to pick the correct part for my model fridge!

Removed the trim screw on top of the door then removed the two hinge bracket bolts. lifted the door
off placed on the table. Remove the two screws on
holding the bearing bracket on the bottom of the door.
removed the bearing and replace with the new one.
Reinstalled in reverse order.

Most of the time was spent removing frozen food and removing the plastic clip holding one of the shelves in place. Removal of bottom panel took less than a minute. Thermostat easy to find, clipped wires a the unit and removed unit. Used included wire jackets, but not white shrink wrap. This did NOT fix the problem. This was the attempt at a 'cheap' fix. My refrigerator required the 'control box' to be replaced.

Simply slid glass into frame & it fit perfectly.

The shelving brackets are install much like a blind rivet. I simply used a punch and gently pushed in the plastic center pin / mandrel. I then used a butter knife as a wedge to pull out the shelving supports enough to grab them with a pair of pliers. Simple to do!

First removed the drip tray with a firm tug, Then removed the 2 screws to remove the trim, had to remove the board to get get to the connector. (there is a clip that holds the wire tight) connected the new ribbon cable and secured it with the clip, screwed the board back in and pushed in the other end of the cable. and screwed the trim back and the drip tray. surprisingly Very easy to do.

The 4 lines attached to water valve have compression fittings.New valve has pex fittings.I cut each line just behind the ferrel and inserted each line into the proper fitting and reattached the 3 electrical plugs.Turned water back on.I immediately got water from thr door without dripping.For whatever reason it was not making ice for the first 3 days,I pulled the plug on the icemaker solenoid and reattached.It is working now.

First of all Don't panic! you can do it and you can save a lot of $$$ if you do it yourself. A friend advice me to look it up online resources and came accross part select on YouTube .

The process:
Defrost the fridge. Take down the panels on the fridge to have room to unscrew the back panels. Once you've taken the back panel out. You will see the thermostat right away. Replace it and voila you're done.

The biggest part of the repair was getting everything out of the shelves in the door. I had to remove one phillips head screw from the plastic hinge cover on the top of the appliance. As per the owners manual I traced around the hinge with a pencil so I would be able to align the door to the same postion. Removed two screws with a nut driver and removed the top hinge. The magnetic strip held the door in place until I grabbed it and pulled it open then lifted it up off of the bottom hinge. I layed the door on the island counter and pried the bearing hinge out of the door stop and replaced it with the new one. I probably could have stopped there but figured the plate might have been worn so I remove one phillips head screw from the bottom hinge, lifted the plate off, and replaced it with the new one. I assembled everything in reverse order and voila, no more popping noises.

Removed the two screws that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the wires. Everything matched up perfectly.

Removed supports with pliers and used center punch to push broken plugs out of hole and inserted the new supports.

-unplug power cord.(safety first!
-Removed evaporator cover in freezer. found defrost thermostat defective.
-use hair dryer to manually defrost coil from ice build-up.
-unclip thermostat from coil.
-cut wires close to the defrost thermostat; remove defective thermostat.
-clip on new defrost thermostat.
-connect wires using included butt connectors including shrink tubing (also included)
-replace coil cover.
-plug power cord back in.

The ice maker would over floew then not cycle it would freeze with the forks stuck in the ice! so just get your modle # and serl, # call in and order the hole ice maker it cost only about $120.00 with shipping!! it is so simple to put in just lossen the 2 1/4 screws in the back and lift up then unplug it. you do not have to turn the water off as it works off the pump at the bottem !!( note you nedd to take the ice bucket out it just slides right out !! You will save the service call from A repair man it is really very easy so by the time it took to read this you will have it done !really its that easy!!