E23CS75DSS1 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.
A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!

Unplugged refrigerator. Pull forward on tray at bottom of water & ice dispenser to remove it. Remove three screws. Push up and then pull out to remove black cover around dispensers. Be careful not to break ribbon cable. Pulled ribbon cable from green circuit card on the cover. Set the cover aside. Removed green circuit card from refigerator (six small screws). Had to unplug two wires to do this. Set this aside. Make sure you remember which connector each wire goes in for re-assembly. I ended up removing the entire assembly, it was easier to work on. There were a couple more screws to remove and then you can carefully pull the entire assembly down and toward you to remove it. This meant removing the water supply line from the dispenser. Pushed up on the water supply line with needle nose pliers to "unstick" it and make it easier to pull out. Used needle nose pliers to unplug wires from broken actuator from the circuit card. Make sure to unplug the correct one. Unscrewed the two screws that held the metal plates thet held the actuator in place. Cut the wires to make it easier to remove the broken actuator and pull the wires through Installed the new actuator and screws. Routed the wire through and plugged it in to the circuit card. Now the hardest part, and I would not have figured it out without a tip from this website. There was no slack in the water line and it was impossible to push the end of it back into the hole in the dispenser assembly. Open the refrigerator doors and remove the black cover at the bottom. The water line goes up through the freezer door from the bottom. It was easy to push an inch or two of slack up through the door. Then I could grab the water line and insert it in the hole in the dispenser. Re-connect the wires that were disconnected and replace the assembly in the freezer door. You can pull slack in the water supply line back down from the bottom if needed. Replace the screws that hold the dispenser assembly in place. Replace the circuit card. Then I had to push the ribbon cable back into the slot in the circuit card in the cover. I had to remove the circuit card from the cover to get at the slot. Push the cable into the slot and re-install the circuit card in the cover. I needed to have my son help me here as a second set of hands was needed, the ribbon cable is short. Replace the cover, be careful not to damage the ribbon cable. Install the three screws and snap the boittom tray back in place. Re-install the black cover at the bottom. Works great.

For the ice dispenser, I read a blog that pointed me right to the solenoid that controls the linkage for the crushed /cubed ice.I first unplugged the fridge. Then removed the ice maker basket. Removed 2 ea screws from each side of the supports of the lower brackets. Then lifted the tray assy off the mounting bracket, moving the front of the bracket down you can then unhook the power/control connector.
The tray then comes right out. Once out you remove two screws that hold a plastic plate on. With this removed you can see the solenoid that actuates the linkage for the ice cube and crushed ice. You then remove 2 ea machine screws that hold the solenoid in. Remove grd. wire. and pull power wires off tabs. You can then remove the solenoid by sliding it out of the plastic retainer. With it out you install the new plunger and reassemble in the reverse order. 15 mins tops.

The main Refidgerator door, made a cluncking sound. Lube didn't help. I removed the door by removing the top screw from the plastic cover, then slide it forward, then remove the two screws that hold the hinge on and then lifting the door off, once off the lower nylon hinge bearing comes right out of the door, the plate is removed with a screw driver. Installed in reverse order and cluncking was gone. 10 mins

First unplug the refrigerator.

Removed the bottom black tray. A quick firm tug is all that is needed.

Removed the 3 phillips head screws.

Pulled out and up being careful not to break the black plastic clips at the top of the external dispensing unit.

Removed the red and black wire clip to the water actuator.

Unscrewed the two phillips head screws with metal plates holding the broken actuator.

Replace the old actuator with the new actuator and reverse the process until complete.

TIP: If you can help it, do not remove the waterline. The space is tight and reinstallation of the waterline is difficult, I know I removed it. It toke and additional frustrating minutes to reconnect the line in a very tight spot.

pulled fridge from wall, removed card board cover, unplug the fridge. turn the water off to the fridge. remove the water source from fridge first then remove 2 screws that hold the valve. then the wire plugs. hoses.. they were color coded.

we researched the internet with our symptoms and most sites said it was the thermostat. At $800+ for a new refrigerater, we decided to order the thermostat. Found schematics on the net, the thermostat was located in teh freezer compartment . Unplugged, removed food from freezer, removed the bottom shelf in freezer, and the back panel It was EASY to find. Cut 2 wires, replaced with new thermostat. DONE! The new thermostat came with new connecters.

Simply swapped out the entire icemaker, works like a charm

First I removed the contents from the door. Second, I removed the exposed bolt on the top hinge(per the manual instructions) and then I removed the plastic hinge cover. Up next was to remove the remaining two bolts from the top hinge. I should, at this point, say it is much easier to have someone help steady the door for you so it doesn't fall off the refrigerator. Now remove the door and the old nylon bearing. Replace with the new bearing and replace the door. This repair couldn't have been easier.

Repair was very easy - and to my great delight, they have replaced the old-style compression fittings with PEX push-fittings. You just clip the old compression ring and nut off the tubing and insert the tubing firmly into the fitting. SNAP! VOILA! PEX fittings are the greatest things since sliced bread. I used it to plumb my new house.

When I first noticed that my refrigerator coil was iced up, I read a little bit about the defrost cycle of a refrigerator. I decided to try replacing the least expensive parts first. First I tried the defrost themostat, it was a very easy repair. My coil still froze up after a couple of days. Then I learned how to force my fridge into a defrost mode (on a frigidaire you just click the light button in the fridge 5 times in under 6 seconds). Then I noticed that the defrost heater was not heating up...this repair was more difficult. You have to first remove the two shelves, bin, and tracks. Then you remove the back panel...4 screws. Then you have to take out a couple of screws and drill out one rivet on the drain pan and pull the drain pan out so you can get the defrost heater which snakes up through the coil from the bottom of the coil. Be careful, as the drain pan and coil fins are very sharp, I sliced a couple fingers messing around with these parts. The defrost heater itself is relatively easy to put in once the coil is in the right position (there are videos on youtube on how to do this). After I put in the new heating element, and buttoned everything back up, I was excited to check my work...I forced the fridge into defrost by clicking the light switch 5 times, and the heater still didn't come on! It dawned on me that this problem started about 5 days after a major power outage (hurricane Irene)...When the power came on, it must have surged, and zapped the defrost control board...Long story short, I replaced the control board (about $75.00 from partselect.com) and my problem is fixed...at least I have a 100% brand new defrost system now...Of course it won't be too long until my wife wants another fridge to match her Stainless Steel applicances...oh well, this one will do fine in the garage.

turned off water supply at water line to fridge. removed two hex head screws @ bottom of rear of appliance that hold the water valve in place.
Simply moved color coded elect. plugs from old one to new one, same with water lines. Only difference is, the replacement one I got uses push in water lines and my original was compression fit. No problem though, just cut the nipple off of original line going into new valve and you are good to go. Might want to have an extra 1/'4" brass compression washer though for the one remaining line. Whole process I did on my lunch break at home less than 30 minutes.
Only problem though was nothing changed. Spoke with service man over the phone and he said MOST of the time it is water freezing up in the inlet tube top of machine, inside. Remove water line from rear outside on top behind freezer and with a straw try to blow through, if it is froze it will not go through. Mine did not go through. Used hair dryer inside freezer in back on incoming line 5-10 minutes,thawed out, makes ice. Go figure. Changing valves was easy and well described as stated, just not necessary in my case, but now I know. Thanks, Warren in Iowa

After three years of cussing this 5-year old fridge for not ejecting the ice, and having to reach in and pull it out by hand, I fixed it with $100 and five minutes. Worse, I probably could have gotten Sears to honor the warranty and replace it when it first started acting up.

Repair could not have been easier. Loosened the two screws/fasteners with 1/4" drive socket set (straight-slot screwdriver wouldn't bite in the shallow slot). Do not remove screws completely; assy lifts up and off the screws for removal. Turn the unit slightly, unclip the electrical connector and remove. Installation is the reverse. Ensure assy sits flush on the screws to assure tray is level.

Although I probably could/should have unplugged the fridge first, I did not. I made sure the ice maker assy was off prior to installation to keep it from cycling on as I attached the ice maker electrical connector, which is before the remounting procedure.

Now it's making so much ice I have to find the plastic shelf cover for the ice bin to keep it from overflowing (which also helps move the ice level bar up to temporarily suspend ice production).