Models > E23CS75DSS1 > Instructions

E23CS75DSS1 Electrolux Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for E23CS75DSS1 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the E23CS75DSS1
1-15 of 414
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

water leaking out of refrigerator

  • Customer: Jose from Alexandria VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 177 of 214 people found this instruction helpful
In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

Support studs were broken

  • Customer: Peter from Amherst NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 156 of 161 people found this instruction helpful
Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

Water dispenser actuator snapped in half

  • Customer: Jerome from Yardville NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 142 of 157 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged refrigerator. Pull forward on tray at bottom of water & ice dispenser to remove it. Remove three screws. Push up and then pull out to remove black cover around dispensers. Be careful not to break ribbon cable. Pulled ribbon cable from green circuit card on the cover. Set the cover aside. Removed green circuit card from refigerator (six small screws). Had to unplug two wires to do this. Set this aside. Make sure you remember which connector each wire goes in for re-assembly. I ended up removing the entire assembly, it was easier to work on. There were a couple more screws to remove and then you can carefully pull the entire assembly down and toward you to remove it. This meant removing the water supply line from the dispenser. Pushed up on the water supply line with needle nose pliers to "unstick" it and make it easier to pull out. Used needle nose pliers to unplug wires from broken actuator from the circuit card. Make sure to unplug the correct one. Unscrewed the two screws that held the metal plates thet held the actuator in place. Cut the wires to make it easier to remove the broken actuator and pull the wires through Installed the new actuator and screws. Routed the wire through and plugged it in to the circuit card. Now the hardest part, and I would not have figured it out without a tip from this website. There was no slack in the water line and it was impossible to push the end of it back into the hole in the dispenser assembly. Open the refrigerator doors and remove the black cover at the bottom. The water line goes up through the freezer door from the bottom. It was easy to push an inch or two of slack up through the door. Then I could grab the water line and insert it in the hole in the dispenser. Re-connect the wires that were disconnected and replace the assembly in the freezer door. You can pull slack in the water supply line back down from the bottom if needed. Replace the screws that hold the dispenser assembly in place. Replace the circuit card. Then I had to push the ribbon cable back into the slot in the circuit card in the cover. I had to remove the circuit card from the cover to get at the slot. Push the cable into the slot and re-install the circuit card in the cover. I needed to have my son help me here as a second set of hands was needed, the ribbon cable is short. Replace the cover, be careful not to damage the ribbon cable. Install the three screws and snap the boittom tray back in place. Re-install the black cover at the bottom. Works great.

Running but not cooling off and frost in the back of the freezer

  • Customer: Leo from Bentonville AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 129 of 163 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!

icemaker stopped making ice

  • Customer: David from New Bern NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 108 of 127 people found this instruction helpful
Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.
A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

Water actuator snapped in half

  • Customer: vincent from morgantown WV
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 67 of 69 people found this instruction helpful
First unplug the refrigerator.

Removed the bottom black tray. A quick firm tug is all that is needed.

Removed the 3 phillips head screws.

Pulled out and up being careful not to break the black plastic clips at the top of the external dispensing unit.

Removed the red and black wire clip to the water actuator.

Unscrewed the two phillips head screws with metal plates holding the broken actuator.

Replace the old actuator with the new actuator and reverse the process until complete.

TIP: If you can help it, do not remove the waterline. The space is tight and reinstallation of the waterline is difficult, I know I removed it. It toke and additional frustrating minutes to reconnect the line in a very tight spot.

The ice dispenser would only dispense crushed ice, Fridge door cluncked when opening and closing

  • Customer: Al from Shakopee MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 62 of 74 people found this instruction helpful
For the ice dispenser, I read a blog that pointed me right to the solenoid that controls the linkage for the crushed /cubed ice.I first unplugged the fridge. Then removed the ice maker basket. Removed 2 ea screws from each side of the supports of the lower brackets. Then lifted the tray assy off the mounting bracket, moving the front of the bracket down you can then unhook the power/control connector.
The tray then comes right out. Once out you remove two screws that hold a plastic plate on. With this removed you can see the solenoid that actuates the linkage for the ice cube and crushed ice. You then remove 2 ea machine screws that hold the solenoid in. Remove grd. wire. and pull power wires off tabs. You can then remove the solenoid by sliding it out of the plastic retainer. With it out you install the new plunger and reassemble in the reverse order. 15 mins tops.

The main Refidgerator door, made a cluncking sound. Lube didn't help. I removed the door by removing the top screw from the plastic cover, then slide it forward, then remove the two screws that hold the hinge on and then lifting the door off, once off the lower nylon hinge bearing comes right out of the door, the plate is removed with a screw driver. Installed in reverse order and cluncking was gone. 10 mins

Refrigerator would sometimes freeze everything

  • Customer: donna from brandon FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 50 of 59 people found this instruction helpful
we researched the internet with our symptoms and most sites said it was the thermostat. At $800+ for a new refrigerater, we decided to order the thermostat. Found schematics on the net, the thermostat was located in teh freezer compartment . Unplugged, removed food from freezer, removed the bottom shelf in freezer, and the back panel It was EASY to find. Cut 2 wires, replaced with new thermostat. DONE! The new thermostat came with new connecters.

Icemaker made ice but would not release them from the ice mold

  • Customer: Kenneth from Aurora IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 44 of 53 people found this instruction helpful
Simply swapped out the entire icemaker, works like a charm

Nylon door hinge bearing on the bottom of refrigerator door broke

  • Customer: Steve from Ankeny IA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 33 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the contents from the door. Second, I removed the exposed bolt on the top hinge(per the manual instructions) and then I removed the plastic hinge cover. Up next was to remove the remaining two bolts from the top hinge. I should, at this point, say it is much easier to have someone help steady the door for you so it doesn't fall off the refrigerator. Now remove the door and the old nylon bearing. Replace with the new bearing and replace the door. This repair couldn't have been easier.

Loud thump/cracking noise when opening door.

  • Customer: Robert from Sarasota FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 32 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Upright refrigerator/freezer. Damage was on refrigerator side door- lower hinge. Removed everything from inside fridge door. Removed plastic protector plate on top of door hinge with phillips screwdriver. Pulled out top hinge and removed door. Undid two small screws holding bottom bearing hinge bracket. Took out chewed up old bearing hinge. Cleaned bracket of debris. Attached bracket with screws. Inserted new bearing hinge. Put door back on fridge, re-attached top hinge and protective cap. (Still trying not to cringe out of habit when opening the door)

no water to ice maker or water dispenser

  • Customer: hubert from winchester VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench set
  • 32 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
pulled fridge from wall, removed card board cover, unplug the fridge. turn the water off to the fridge. remove the water source from fridge first then remove 2 screws that hold the valve. then the wire plugs. hoses.. they were color coded.

everything in refrigerator freezing even on warmest setting

  • Customer: Benny from astoria NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 33 of 44 people found this instruction helpful
To access the part you have to remove the back panel of the freezer compartment from the inside of the freezer itself. There are four screws to this panel. I emptied the contents of the freezer, took of 2 shelves and brackets to gain access and removed the cover. Located the part , cut the wires with a wire cutter and left a small tail ....MAKE SURE TO UNPLUG REFRIG OF COURSE ... the part is clipped on the coils , added the new part. matched the color wires and added the connectors , crimped the wires and added a little electrical tape and put the panel and shelves back. THE REFRIG IS WORKING LIKE A CHARM

Icemaker would not eject ice from tray

  • Customer: Brian from Newburgh IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
After three years of cussing this 5-year old fridge for not ejecting the ice, and having to reach in and pull it out by hand, I fixed it with $100 and five minutes. Worse, I probably could have gotten Sears to honor the warranty and replace it when it first started acting up.

Repair could not have been easier. Loosened the two screws/fasteners with 1/4" drive socket set (straight-slot screwdriver wouldn't bite in the shallow slot). Do not remove screws completely; assy lifts up and off the screws for removal. Turn the unit slightly, unclip the electrical connector and remove. Installation is the reverse. Ensure assy sits flush on the screws to assure tray is level.

Although I probably could/should have unplugged the fridge first, I did not. I made sure the ice maker assy was off prior to installation to keep it from cycling on as I attached the ice maker electrical connector, which is before the remounting procedure.

Now it's making so much ice I have to find the plastic shelf cover for the ice bin to keep it from overflowing (which also helps move the ice level bar up to temporarily suspend ice production).

Water valve had broken

  • Customer: Patrick from Georgetown KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 28 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
Repair was very easy - and to my great delight, they have replaced the old-style compression fittings with PEX push-fittings. You just clip the old compression ring and nut off the tubing and insert the tubing firmly into the fitting. SNAP! VOILA! PEX fittings are the greatest things since sliced bread. I used it to plumb my new house.
All Instructions for the E23CS75DSS1
1-15 of 414