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Models > DWSR483EG3WW > Instructions

DWSR483EG3WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DWSR483EG3WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DWSR483EG3WW
46-60 of 782
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The dryer began squeeking very loudly progressively getting worse

  • Customer: Michael from Sioux City, IA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 25 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
A very easy fix. Opening the front door to the dryer locate two chrome phillips head screws in the upper part of the door opening which hold on the top of the dryer. (I think in the older dryers the top simply was held on with keepers and you could simply pry it off. Not the case here)Lifting up on the front of the top it comes away from the back control panel. I would recommed that the control panel be removed as it is necessary to remove it to put the dryer top back on due to three clips that wont allow you to put the top back down with the control panel in place. It takes a star wrence to remove it. Once the top is off ther are two phillips screws holding the front of the dryer on (one on each side) remove them and the whole fron lifts up and off. The drum rides on a plastic schroud attached to the dryer inside front. Mine was so worn it required the purchase of the entire assembly which comes in two parts. The upper part had worn away so badly the drum was riding on the metal causing the noise. I ordered both the upper and lower assembly and both just simply snap off and the new ones snap right back on. No tools. I was a bit dissapointed as I assumed that the felt which is located in the lower assembly would come with the new part however it did not nor did some plastic tabs which the drum rides on in the upper assembly comes with the replacement part. It takes four of those tabs so order appropriately. Went back together easily and the whole job was done in about 40 minutes.

replacement of holed lint screen

  • Customer: Mark from Clarksville, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 22 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
straightforward swap, just form the top rail and click it in

dryer was cutting off completely.

  • Customer: Stephen from Mechanicsville, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 25 of 40 people found this instruction helpful
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. When the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm.
I replaced it and the unit worked.

Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months

  • Customer: Richard from Hedgesville, WV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs)
1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door.
2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed.
3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside
4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully
5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly
6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time.
7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.
8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas
9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.
10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)
11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.
12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.
13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into
14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!

The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.
I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.

Dryer squeeked badly when running.

  • Customer: Craig from Castle Rock, CO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
I've always heard it was a simple job to replace the belt and that would solve the problem. I'd defer to others online when they suggest to replace the rear bearing - they are totally right about that suggestion. My bearing basically fell apart in my hands. Not sure if I needed a belt or not, but it's worth replacing while you are tearing the thing apart. It took way longer to tear apart than to put back together. The parts and prices from PartsSelect were perfect. The parts were received in 4 business days as they said and were perfect replacement parts.

Faint Squeek after dryer had been running for an hour or so

  • Customer: Stephanie from Cicero, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer.
Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the top
Remove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each side
Remove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes off
Lift drum out of dryer
Use the torx bit to remove the bearing
If you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housing
This is the perfect time to remove all dust bunnies
Re-install everything in reverse order

Dryer making squeaking noise when operating

  • Customer: Michael from Clay, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to remove the top by taking out the two screws inside the door. Then I removed the front by taking out the two screws holding it from the inside. I needed to remove the drum and to the the belt off, I removed the left side. It has several screws down the back, two on the bottom and two in the front. I removed the belt and drum. I took out the old sleeve bearing. Part of it was broken off into the hole it goes into. I then had to remove the plate that holds the heating element. Once that was done, I put the new bearing on and replaced the drum slides on the from section. Then I reversed the process to reassemble. Not too bad.

only orderd two sliders needed four

  • Customer: William from Leesburg, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
easy no problem

Dryer not heating. When moving it away from wall it was sparking badly where the cord hooks up.

  • Customer: Vincent from Washington, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow!

loud screeching

  • Customer: Roger from Salyersville, KY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
5 minutes! loosened 4 screws pulled front off replaced bearing, felt, and slides. put everything back together, tightened screws. Worked like a NEW ONE!!!!

Noisy running, slow turning dryer

  • Customer: Laura from Sonora, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it.
I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first!
Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another.
Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it.
I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post.
Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge.
Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel.
I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter.
Put on the top panel and done!

Heat deflector was covered in melted plastic

  • Customer: Charles from Alexandria, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 20 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Someone I'm related to by marriage accidentally dried a plastic-coated tablecloth on high heat, and our heat deflector was hosed. I was very happy to find this part here for such a reasonable price; Sears wanted about $65 for it. Installation required a Torx bit, and removing the old one was easy, but the dryer's design made it difficult to reinstall the heat deflector while keeping the dryer running concentrically. I ended up cutting the heads off three screws, threading those into the plate behind the drum, sliding the new heat deflector on over those, and then one by one replacing them with the original Torx head screws. Once I figured it out it didn't take long but it took me a while to figure it out. That's probably more a reflection on me than the dryer!

Noisy and took too long to dry clothes

  • Customer: Bruno from Somerdale, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Easy repair. Removed top of dryer and removed two screws to front panel and door assembly. Old front air duct assembly was worn and broken, so it literally fell off the panel. I cleaned the front panel and door assembly of all the lint and dirt, and snapped the new parts into place. The new parts came with the gasket and felt drum seal already installed, to all that had to be done was to snap it into place. Installing the drum slides was a breeze. I simply had to slide one end in the slot, position the hole over the pin, and slide the other end in. I put everything back together, and ran a full cycle for test. Dryer works like new, and run quiet.

Plastic Shaft Broke

  • Customer: Jennifer from Midland, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
My husband un-screwed a few screws to take the cover off then just rewired the new timer and put the cover back on. I actually had an easier experience with this website than the actual GE website, which I used prior to partselect, and ordered the wrong part. Thanks and I will definately refer and use this site again. AWESOME!!

Terrible screech/chirping sound from Dryer

  • Customer: Michael from Downingtown, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instruction of the first posting for this category and it worked perfectly...thanks for the nice detail...

- Upon receipt from PartSelect, placed new slides in Drum Bearing (this does not come together or as a kit - must order 4 slides AND Bearing separately for this dryer model)
- Loosened Top panel screws (2) from inside door area
- Slid top of dryer off - PAY attention to HOW the top comes out (tabs at the back and slots on the sides) or replacing the top could prove frustrating)
- Loosened Front panel screws (2) and GENTLY leaned the panel forward to access Drum Bearing - no need to REMOVE the front panel but be aware of the switch wires when leaning and the weight of the door if you did not remove that
- Removed old Drum Bearing
- Vacuumend interior of dryer cabinet (especially area leading down to vent)
- Snapped new Drum Bearing into place
- Re-secured Front panel paying attention to drum position to make sure everything still rotated properly and freely
- Reset Top panel - align back tabs first, gently pull forward just a bit until Top slips down over side tabs, then slide back into place and re-secure

Worked like a charm - took about 20 minutes...
All Instructions for the DWSR483EG3WW
46-60 of 782