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DWSR483EG3WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DWSR483EG3WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DWSR483EG3WW
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The dryer door handle broke off.

  • Customer: Jim from North Richland Hills TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 36 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
I pried out the remaining pieces of the handle out of the door with a screwdriver. When the new part arrived, I snapped it into place and it was done. It fit perfectly.

squeaky dryer for a week or two

  • Customer: warren from Flint MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 30 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas

Second I opened the door and unscrewed the two screws that go up into the top panel and hold it in place (you will need to get down and look under the top of the door jam to see the screws).

Third I lifted the front of the top enough to remove the two screws holding the front panel on (Use a magnetic screwdriver if you have one you do not want to lose the screws taking them out or putting them back in)

Fourth positioned a chair to lean front panel against so it would not fall over or strain the electrical wires that run to the switch in the door (slide the front panel off slowly supporting the drum with your hand so it doe not drop hard on the motor wires or burners)

Sixth determined the parts I needed and ordered parts from pars select and got them in two days

Seventh when new parts arrived I unclipped the old DRUM BEARING removed the felt gasket, put the felt in the new Drum bearing and clipped it in place

Eighth clipped in the 2 new Dryer Drum Slides and 2new SLIDE WH slides

Ninth Vacuumed out dryer and vent pipe completely

Tenth reassembled dryer being careful to make sure drum was properly aligned as I put the front panel in place and the belt was in the proper place on drum and all the screws were back in place.

Ninth turned gas back on and plugged in dryer

Ten turned on dryer to test squeak was gone

Hints as soon as you hear a squeak look into it and you will probably not have to replace the DRUM BEARING. But if any of the Slides are bad replace them all. Check your belt and felt gaskets to see if they are in good shape. If everything up front is in good shape and it is not the motor squeaking it could be the back drum bearing. Take your time keep your old dryer running for a few more years and save the $40 dollar service call. Do not forget to clean out all the old lint and dust out of your dryer and vent pipes not only will you reduce the risk of fire you will be allowing air to pass through the dryer more easily drying your clothes in shorter time.

belt broken, pulley worn out

  • Customer: Anthony from Mpls MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 29 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 4 screws from top of control panel , remove 2 from back to lossen top of dryer. Removed rear lower access cover,6 screws on back of dryer exposing pulley and tensioner, remove broken belt and vaccuumed out a ton of lint , removed pulley and tensioner and replaced. From the front remove 4 screws and take off front of dryer, disconnecting several wires, again vaccumed out lint, lifter drum evough to replace belt. Reassembled

DRYER WAS MAKING A LOT OF NOISE WHILE RUNNING

  • Customer: Tracy from Winston Salem NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 24 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I ordered parts based off other peoples findings. I took the top and front off the Dryer. I found the drum bearing(really only a plastic bracket. The slide were completely worn and the drum was wearing into the plastic drum bearing. I popped the old drum bearing out and put the new on in. There are actually 2 sets of slides (4 total). I only bought 2. I reused two of the existing slides. I put the unit back together and it was a lot quieter. I need to order more of the slides. They are only a couple dollars a piece and take most of the beating. I should've but didn't get the pasking or gasket. it was broken. I think it'll be fine though.

My clothes were being "bitten", discolored with blackish smudges, and buttons eaten off clothing

  • Customer: Deborah from Glenburn ME
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
First I really had to hunt for the proper way to get my dryer drum accessible for the repair. With my model it was as simple as removing two screws to take off the top panel (located by opening the dryer door), and then removing two other screws inside the front panel at the top. The front will then be able to swing to the left side (the door switch wires are on this side for this model). Simply remove the drum bearing by gently pulling it off. My slides were in such poor shape for less than 4 years old!! One of them had completely disintegrated! These slides have a small whole on one end which attaches to a small nub at the edge of a slot while the other side just slid into a slot at the other end. No need to even take out the drum!!
The hardest part of the job was to get into the dryer!

Dryer wouldn't run at all

  • Customer: Julie from Delmar MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
First I figured out it was the start switch, I heard it make an electrical zap noise when I turned it and then the dryer didn't start. Once I had the part I simply removed the back from the dryer with a screwdriver (5 phillips head screws and 1 flat head). Then I twisted the old switch and it popped right out. Then I unhooked the wires and rehooked them to the new switch. Then I twisted the new switch into place, tested the dryer - IT WORKED! After that I just replaced the back cover and I was done. It was so quick! I am a 25 year old single mother with a 21 month and 4 month old. If I can do it on my own anyone can!

dryer would not heat

  • Customer: Mike from Simpsonville SC
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 23 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
The heating element was broken.

Rubbing/Squealing Noise While Drying, especially during cold weather

  • Customer: Gary from Spring Hill TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
This part arrived at our house two days after I ordered it. I was stunned by how quickly it arrived.

Our dryer was making a very annoying squeaking/rubbing noise while drying and it became worse as the outside temps dropped (it's winter)...colder air cooling the exhaust line, causing metal in dryer to contract more.

I called an appliance repair service and they said, "Honestly, your money is going to be better spent to just buy a new dryer. The bearings on these are a pain to replace."

Yeah, right.

I've never taken apart a dryer, but it took me less than 45 minutes to complete this repair and our dryer is back to normal. Total cost was $18, including shipping. A $300 savings versus buying a new dryer.

There is another description of the process for this part so I won't repeat it all.

I did it a little differently than most, namely I did not remove the dryer drum. I simply pulled it out about six inches (make sure and slide belt back as you inch out the drum). But first, unplug the dryer, then remove the top, then the front.

A Philips screwdriver will quickly remove the top of the dryer (two screws on inside front, where door closes) and the front face (two screws at top of front, inside face). Lift the front up about an inch and it is free. I had to disconnect a couple wires, just make sure you mark before you disconnect them.

With that done, the drum will pull straight toward you (out). Make sure and support the weight of the drum as you slide it out. I found no need to remove the drum.

At the rear inside of our drum, there are three Torx screws that hold the bearing assembly on. I have a pretty long reach so I just removed two of the Torx screws, then reached around the back of the drum while removing the third screw, to keep the bearing assembly from falling onto the floor behind the back of the drum.

This plastic bearing is held to the bearing shaft by a little o-ring. Just pull the o-ring off, slide off the old bearing, slide the new bearing on and replace the o-ring (if yours is broken, any home store will have one that will work as a replacement in their faucet repair department).

Reattach the bearing housing to the drum with the Torx screws (get all three started before you tighten any of them), slide the drum back in - make sure you slide the belt as you move the drum back in and support the weight of the drum so you don't bash the bearing assembly into the back of the dryer.

You're doing this part blind, but in a few seconds, you can guide the bearing back into the hole in the back wall of the dryer. It just slides into the hole, nothing fancy.

Put the front of the dryer back on. Then replace the top (I had to remove the five screws on top of the dial panel to give it some flex so the top would pop back into place without stressing the dial panel), plug the dryer back in, and fire it up.

45 minutes after this part arrived at our home, our dryer problems were gone. Now that I've done one, I could probably do it in 20 minutes the next time (it's that simple/easy). And we didn't need a new dryer. Makes me think I should have the appliance guy who told me we needed a new dryer to direct all of these "pain in the fanny" bearing replacements to me because I could charge someone $50 total for the repair and make good money.

Hope all this babble helps someone else who doesn't need a new dryer.

dryer would run until you shut it off , timer did not advance , clothes would air dry there was no heat

  • Customer: david from gaffney SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged dryer ,pulled dryer front and top off and removed drum , found element wire broken . loosened element to be able to remove wire pods . reverserd removal ( belt is a little tricky ) reattached power cord to outlet worked like a charm.

Drum Bearing slides were worn and broken, dryer made high-pitched noise.

  • Customer: Gary from Glenmoore PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First, let me say that my repairman said the bearing and slides would cost between $150-200, and the total repair would be pushing $400, so we should just get a new dryer. Well, the total cost for the parts was less than $50.

The installation was easy.
1. Remove the two bottom screws of the door hinges, loosen the two top screws, and remove the door.
2. Unscrew the two screws, under the upper lip of the door opening, that secure the front panel to the top panel.
3. Pull the front of the top panel up, and then pull the panel off.
4. Remove the bulb from the front panel.
5. Unscrew the two screws, from inside the dryer, that secure the front panel to the frame.
6. Pull the front panel away from the drum and frame. Had to lift the drum slightly to do this. The electrical connection wire was still attached to the front panel.
7. Slide off the old drum bearing from the inside of the front panel.
8. Insert 4 new slides onto the new bearing.
9. Slide the new bearing onto the rim of the opening in the front panel.
10. Reset the front panel back into the slots at the bottom front of the frame, with the bearing fitting into the drum. Again, had to lift the drum slightly to do this, and make sure the wire was not caught between the front panel and frame.
11. Re-secured the front panel to the frame with the two screws.
12. Replaced the bulb in the front panel.
13. Replaced the top, and re-secured it with the two screws.
13. Put the door back on.
Quiet dryer once again! And saved the $800, including installation, a new gas dryer would have cost us!

dryer wasn't getting hot

  • Customer: edward from Sunnyvale CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
1. removed two screws to take off top.
2. removed two screws to take off front.
3. Took belt off pulley and removed drum.
4. inspected old heating element at back of dryer - saw broken wire
5. replaced heating element (round w/ heating coil)
6. Re-assembled dryer

Helpful hints:
1. mark down or take pictures of all wires before removal - easy to mix them up
2. when you re-attach drum-belt, it should be taught. Comes straight down wall around metal pulley and then forms an "S" as it wraps around plastic pulley on way up. To re-attach, stick both arms into dryer - one to pull plastic-pulley and other to attach belt.

Broken Dryer Belt

  • Customer: Richard from Ashton MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt. I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.

Plastic attachment which turns dryer on worn and knob was stripped

  • Customer: Cynthia A from Philadelphia PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Use snub nose plier took less than fifteen minutes.

worn out drum bearing(squeaky)

  • Customer: Warren from Ballston Lake NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
If you're dis-assembling the dryer panels to remove the drum to acess the bearing located at the rear of the drum,don't hesitate to buy a idler pulley kit and a belt.It's easier to change them now,while it's apart. besides,their all pretty much in the same state of wear! In lew of prying my son away from the computer,an extra set of hands is a help, I used a scrap piece of 4x4 with a 1 inch whole bored in one side to place the bearing end into to steady it to get the screws started. otherwise you need to have 6ft.arms! re-assembly wasn't bad, a magnetic tipped #3 screw driver eliminates the frustration of dropping panel screws down inside the partially assembled body.

Dryer took a long time to dry clothes

  • Customer: Darrell from Springdale AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the removed the screws that held the top on the dryer. Next I removed the screws that held the controls on from the back. I then removed screws that held the left side in place and removed the drum by first removing the drive belt.
The heating element unit was removed by removing four screws and the wiring harnes. I reversed the procedure to install the heating unit and put the machine back together.
All Instructions for the DWSR483EG3WW
16-30 of 740