DWC8240ABW Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

So I decided to stick in some CLR to see if it would clean it up. Well it got considerably worse. So ordered the new faucet adapter, threaded adapter and the two washers, due to not knowing what i would need. It came like unbelievably fast considering it was Christmas time. Unscrewed the old one from the faucet, screwed on the new one. hooked up the dishwasher, watched it for a bit for any leaks at the connection, and it worked great! I seem to have more water pressure too coming from the sink faucet. Thank you so much for the quickness in sending out my order! -- Scott

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

The repair is fairly simple except that the diagram on the web site has an error - it reverses the positions of the long hinge pin and the short pin. I kept trying to do it as the diagram showed and of course it didn't work. Then I followed my instincts! The only other difficult part was figuring out which way to insert the spring but there are only a few options so trial and error was the simplest way.

Since there are no nuts or anything else to remove on these racks, bending them into place is the only obvious way to go to fit them onto the existing racks. Taking out the old movable racks is the easy part - just take a pair of pliers and bend back the 'O' part of the movable rack where it goes over the pin on the big rack. To put on the replacement racks, I found that I had to bow the racks in the middle to make them fit. Simply pressuring them into place didn't have enough give. With a helper to hold the big rack steady, I could use 2 hand to bow and align the movable racks and snap them into place. You have to be careful not to bow to much or you could permanently bend the new parts. I broke one weld between the short pieces that go perpendicular to the long wires on the new rack by putting too much pressure on the long wires.

Actual i missed diagnosed the leak and ordered a very expensive door gasket. The leak was coming from shrinage of the wax resevoire o rig and the tab seal for the soap dispensor. I missed the trees the forest got in the way. The leak was dripping alond the front panel well away from the main door seal.

I cleans a the plastic surfaces and noticed a lip around the opening for the reservoire and used 150 sandpaper to remove it. Replaced the O ring, tab seal and bothe selonoids and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Works find lasts along time

Remove inner door by removing 7 torx screws. flip inner door up, propping it between the open door and the countertop.

Leave the drying solution reservour in place, remove two screws holding wax motor retainer. remove motor. (You might want to dissassemble door latch mechanism and replace latch seal, which is probably why wax motor failed to begin with. it simply slides over the latch FROM THE INSIDE.) Then reassemble.

I also cleaned up the main inner door seal. after that, the dishwasher leaked pretty good everytime the sprayer arm revolved. It took awhile to figure out I had rubbed off some rubber, although not much, BUT ENOUGH to make it leak.

SIMPLE FIX: Simply pull out seal, TURN IT OVER, so the back is now the front, AND RE-INSERT. No more leak. Saved 42 dollars.

Also: if your washer has two wax motors, (and you don't use drying agent) just swap the drying agent wax motor with defective soap dispenser motor. No cost repair.

Removed Torx (T20) screws around perimiter of inside cover. Lifted cover and inverted it, then disconnected the two terminals from the wax motor. Wire and motor terminals had green corrosion and entire motor/latch assembly was caked with accumulated detergent. After ensuring circuit was not hot, cleaned wire terminals by soaking ends (one a a time) in white vinegar, then water, then a spritz of WD-40. Removed old assmebly and reservoir, then thoroughly cleaned inside cover and vacuumed inside of dishwasher door. Took digital pics at each step of disassembly as a reference when reassembling.

Instructions provided with conversion kit are useless. Attached parts, motor, and gasket to new assembly first, using old assembly as a guide. then attached to cover before replacing reservoir. Inserted plunger into reservoir and twisted to secure. Installed o-ring and mounted reservoir; slot on reservoir mates with tab on assembly, and white lever arm actuates plunger. Reattached wires to motor and replaced inside cover. Ran a wash cycle and confirmed cup lid opened.

Note that my model only had one wax motor, so new assembly was identical to old and the Y-cable was not needed. As another commenter pointed out, latch assembly will not appear to work correctly manipulated by hand until you remember that cup lid holds latch at midpoint of travel at start of wash.

I removed the wash basket. I unscrewed the cover. I disassembled the spray arm. I removed the broken lower wash arm support. I installed the new one and put everything back.

Very easy.

Plus, the parts reached my desk less than 24 hours after I placed the order. Very pleased.

Front Door Panel Insert: Remove the screws located in the metal strips surrounding the panel. This releases the old panel and allowes the old panel to be replaced with the new panel. Truly a piece of cake. Access Panel Insert: may need a small wrench to get at the screws to remove the entire access panel from the dishwasher unit. Then remove the screws in the metal strip surrounding the access panel to replace the panel insert. A little more work, but still rather easy.

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Took off the float, the jam nut was hard to get off, we ended up breaking the bottom piece of the float to get it off, but that was okay because we had a new float. The new float went on real easy and the jam nut went back on real easy. The foam insulation strip was real easy to get off we got a good hold of one end and striped it off slowly so there was nothing left on the door, then we cleaned the surface and put on the new insulation strip. We ran dishwasher to test it and there was no leak. Awesome. Cheap and easy to repair. We were impressed.

removed inner door panel. tested ythe Wax motor that operates the soap dispenser latch. It tested OK so I removed dispenser assembly. replaced the worn plastic parts and reinstalled the inner door panel.

Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

After removing the parts so I could get at the o-ring, I replaced the o-ring and restarted the dishwasher. Water was still getting past. Maybe has something to do with the difficulty of tightening around the short shoulder near the o-ring. To overcome the problem I applied a thin layer of Marine Goop under and over the o-ruing and reassembled the parts. Now no leaks.