DWC6402AAE Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

Used two pair of reg. screwdrivers and pried old fitting out and the new wheel went in easily by pushing it in place without tools and had a snug fit.

Replaced the door latch.

Watched video you have on the site.... also read the first person's description - both very helpful...since I am 75 y.o.and a woman got my chair to sit and did exactly step by step and actually did it! So happy I wouldnt have to buy a new dishwasher YET - Emailed my friends and said if and when they need wheel replaced I can do for them!!! Thanks for all the help on site.

Replaced the inner door foam insulation strip and door gasket.I believe the "secret" is not to push the door gasket in all the way. Let the door find its own seat. Problem fixed.

snapped it on to the rack shaft

This was as simple a repair as you will ever get, at least on a 16 year old Maytag like we have. Literally just take the old gasket out and put the new one in -- just make sure to look at the old gasket to ensure you are inserting the proper end of the new one into the channel, I almost put it in wrong, but then again I'm brain damaged where home repairs are concerned. The door is more difficult to close after I put the gasket in, so I may have to adjust the door closing mechanism just a tad.

Great instructions, great service. But I have not yet made the repair.

I replaced a broken power cord in my 15+yr old portable maytag dishwasher as it was much less than a brand new one. I also need to change the seal in the door but that will be another day. Anyway, after removing the four screws inside the door with the torque screw driver (t20, I think) , remove the two screws attaching the counter top to the unit and took that off. You get to them from under the top when the door is open. Then remove two screws from the back of the unit. You can now remove the two screws holding the casing in the front of the unit. I think that is all you need to remove the casing and counter top. You now will need to remove a shield from the back of the unit. You will now need to remove four screws holding the front panel that hides the power cord box and other wires. The power cord runs into a small box that you will need to use the small socket to remove the cover. Disconnect the wire nuts and ground wire from the unit. This will release the power cord from the wires of the unit. Using a pair of pliers, pinch the black thing that holds the power cord in place and pull it through the hole it is slid into. You will need to use some force to do this. It took longer to do this than it did to get to that point for me. You must do this again on the side of the unit where the power cord goes through and runs to the back of the unit. Pull the old power cord out of the unit through the holes in the front and side where the black things were holding it tightly. You have removed the old power cord and are ready to install a new cord. Remember to run the power cord through the compartment in the back that it is to be pulled from when you operatate the unit. This is also where the hose comes out from. After running the cord through the back of the unit, through the side hole and into the hole in the front you have to re-install the black things that hold the cord tight. Be sure the cord is not touching the motor. I attached the cord to other wires underneath using duck tape keeping it away from the motor. This will require the pliers again and a little force to get the black thing to slip through the holes and keep the cord tight. It seemed easier for me to put the black thing in before I attached the power cord to the unit matching the colors up with the wires from the unit. This would be a good time to make sure the wires are connected by plugging in the cord and listening for the unit to start. I put the controls on the dry setting to hear the dryer start. After verifying the unit was connected properly, I used the screws that I took out to attach the box over the wires, attach the front panel, attach the rear shield, attach the casing, and counter top, or any other parts you may have taken off. The dishwasher is one!!!

plastic form inside dishwasher does not press into foam insulation strip hard enough to stop water from leaking. It is still leaking

It was super simple, the web site was excellent in helping me purchase the proper parts, even when a slight error was made in my order(2 parts bags were ship that were empty)I contacted the service department an they immediately sent out the parts at no charge. I replaced the dishwasher cover in about 10 minutes. Probably saved a couple hundred dollar from a service call. Thank you.

Installing the door gasket is relatively easy, it just pushes in place without any adhesive. Just make sure it is even on both sides
You can to pull it out and reinstall to even it all way around the door if needed.
You may also find a new gasket will make to door a little harder to close. I presume it will be easier to close over time.
I also installed a new float at the same time but that repair is very difficult, takes specialized tools and lots of patience.

replaced basket with a new one, so easy even a cave man could do it.....i think.......

I put the new one in and that was all

After I got the new springs, I pulled the dishwasher out and the springs were fine but the little plastic piece that attaches the spring to the door was gone. So now I had to order the that piece and wait again.

Just snapped in plastic retainer and works just fine now