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DW861UQP Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for DW861UQP parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DW861UQP
61-75 of 493
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water leaked through front vent

  • Customer: mark from ardmore OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

Dishes were not getting totally clean.

  • Customer: Dennis from Liberty MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I did not move the dishwasher out. It is a fairly tight space underneath, but the water inlet valve is located toward the front, so it wasn't too bad. The steps were:

1) unplug the power and turn off the water to the dishwasher.
2) remove the 2 wire connectors.
3) use the nutdriver to remove the 2 screws that hold the valve to the side of the dishwasher.
4) use a wrench (5/8") to remove the nut where the water goes into the valve. This takes some patience since you can't turn the wrench very far in the tight space.
5) remove the water outlet hose by using pliers to squeeze together the clamp and move it up the hose. Then twist the valve to free the hose and remove it from the valve. The nibs on the clamp are small and take a little time to get them squeezed together. If the hose has been on there a long time, you will have to twist the valve a few times to free it up.
6) now you will have to remove the sleeve that the nut was screwed onto. I had to take the valve to my vise to hold it. Then it wasn't too hard to remove.
7) use teflon tape before you reassemble. Just go in the reverse order.
8) hope there isn't a leak. Mine didn't.

The new water inlet valve seems to have fixed the problem!

dishwasher wouldn't drain

  • Customer: Steve from Collierville TN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Take the bottom skirts off of front. Put drain solinoid back in its bore and secure with wire or a rubber band.It will be a chrome cylinder hanging Take the center spray section out and look for the broken lever. Get both pieces out if it split and fell in two. Mine usually crack and stay on the shaft. Pull the circlip off and slide new lever in place and replace circlip. Re-assemble center section. If you are going to keep the dishwasher buy extra levers. I buy them 2 at a time and try to keep a spare.

Water leaking around the Inlet injector on side of dishwasher.

  • Customer: Juli from Grangeville ID
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
My original order was for the "Motor Gasket" in the bottom of the tub that just looked nasty. Not leaking. Replacing that was a little more complicated, but used another customer's recommendations and worked great. Ran an empty load to check for leaks and thats when we discovered that we had a leak on the side of the darn thing. So we ordered the "Injector Seal Ring. Got it in about 5 days and after installing, (2 seconds), we still had a leak! Soooo, ordered the "Water Inlet Injector". 5 days later, we have NO MORE LEAKS!!! I would STRONGLY suggest that anyone who has a leak at the Water Inlet, order a new Injector right along with the Seal Ring. The shipping and handling was WAY more than the price of the parts. I'm happy to say that my 10 year old dishwasher is running like a champ. Thank You.

missing screws for oven door

  • Customer: donna from baltimore MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

Water leaking out the right side bottom of door.

  • Customer: Thomas from Oneida NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy to do. Used needle nose pliers just to get a first grip on the door gasket and then pulled it completely out. Pulled up the Water Deflectors by hand. Cleaned the gasket trough with a soft cloth, warm water and dishwashing detergent. Rinsed. Then simply pushed the gasket into the trough, lightly tapping into place, then pushed on the water deflectors, and no more leak!

Deteriorated (and leaking) Impeller seal.

  • Customer: Ron from Sandusky MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Dealer phone quote = $250. DIY repair = $55.
Turn-off DW electrical circuit breaker and shut-off hot water supply. Remove lower Front Access Panel and Toe Panel. Disconnect hot water supply, corrugated drain hose, electrical connection, and uncounter mounting brackets. Slide-out DW (being careful not to scratch flooring) and gently tip DW onto its back side. Rotate Ring-Lock at underside of Tub and (from inside the Tub) carefully lift out Motor-and-Pump assembly. At the Motor-and-Pump assembly, unscrew Center Spray Nozzle and remove Lower Spray Arm and lv Filter. At the end of the Impeller, remove Chopper Screw, Chopper, Chopper Plate (rotate 1/4 turn) and Chopper Wear Ring. Remove Motor Mount Screws and Motor Shield. Loosen Impeller {NOTE: left-hand thread} from motor shaft by the holding Motor Fan stationary and unscrewing Impeller. Pull apart the Motor and Impeller; discard old Impeller. Gently and thoroughly clean the internal surface of Housing Assembly seal with a toothbrush and soapy water. Carefully reassemble in the reverse order using the new Impeller. (Prophylactically, I also replaced the Motor "O" Ring and Pump Gasket.) DW works perfectly; no leaks!

the upper spray arm clip broke off

  • Customer: Bernard from New Hyde Park NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
the spray arm is held in by a plastic bracket that snaps on or off over two points. I was able to remove the bracket without using any tools,just my fingertips. It is really simple!

Dishwasher would stop in the middle of a wash cycle

  • Customer: David from Concord MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Our dishwasher got to the point where it would not complete a wash cycle. I found that by jiggling the door latch, the dishwasher would whir back to life. For awhile, if I put a clothespin on the door latch, somehow enough pressure would be put on the switch to keep the dishwasher going. Finally, the dishwasher refused to cooperate...so I ordered a replacement switch.

The repair was easy. I only had to remove the interior door panel, unscrew the metal bar at the top of the door and underneath the door panel, then remove the black plastic shield. After that, it was just a matter of wiggling the old switch out and wiggling the new switch.

CAUTION: Be very sure that the power to the dishwasher is turned off. I got a scare because I thought the circuit breaker was off, but I had flipped the wrong one and suddenly, with my fingers very close to the bare connectors, the dishwasher came back to life briefly. I ran downstairs and found the correct circuit breaker and all was fine after that.

the spray arm had continually been disconnecting from the nut

  • Customer: Lee Don from Dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
after reading the remarks from other DIY users of the site, I realized that not only did I need to replace the spray arm, but should replace the spray arm nut as well. The repair took less than a minute to unscrew the old one and add the new, and it has worked like a charm ever since. Thanks guys, and goooood luck.

Drain hose leaked

  • Customer: Mark from Mansfield OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to unhook the electric, water line and drain hose. Then slide out the dishwasher. Took several days to find the drain hose - local stores only carried a 6 ft hose and I needed a 7 ft. Once I found it online, purchased it and recieved it I put it all back together and all is good.

Leaking from the dishwasher on left side

  • Customer: Theresa from Zimmerman MN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Took off the float, the jam nut was hard to get off, we ended up breaking the bottom piece of the float to get it off, but that was okay because we had a new float. The new float went on real easy and the jam nut went back on real easy. The foam insulation strip was real easy to get off we got a good hold of one end and striped it off slowly so there was nothing left on the door, then we cleaned the surface and put on the new insulation strip. We ran dishwasher to test it and there was no leak. Awesome. Cheap and easy to repair. We were impressed.

Leaks out and below the front door

  • Customer: John Todd from Franklin WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

Leak around door

  • Customer: RON from MOUNT AIRY MD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old door gasket and water deflectors and replaced with new. Got the gasket in backwards at first. Removed and rotated 180 degrees and it went in properly. (Used tech video provided by parts select to help me.)

Though the old gasket was definitely bad, water still leaked after replacement.

Key issue ...... over time, contamination has accumulated in the water shutoff lever assembly and also on the shutoff microswitch underneath the internal water float, making both sticky and non-responsive to water level. Water had been overfilling. (probably defaulting to a maximum number of seconds to fill). ALSO - original installation was not totally level, with back of tub higher than the front.

Leveled tub. Removed mocroswitch and lever and cleaned both of sticky grease.

No more leakage.. basic problem was actually overfilling, allowing water to surge into the lower internal door vent upon pump startup.

Ron
Mount Airy, MD

water not flowing into dishwasher

  • Customer: Doug from Cornish ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
turn off breaker
turn off water supply line
note wire color locations on notepad
disconnect 2 spade lugs (pliers)
disconnect inlet line (adj. wrench)
disconnect outlet line (pliers on hose clamp)
remove old valve assembly (4 screws w/nutdriver)
remove ground jumper from old valve
remove inlet pipe ell from old unit (vise & pliers)
clean open end of pipe ell (file)
apply teflon dope tape to pipe threads
install pipe ell on new valve
reorient solenoid 90degrees cw to match Maytag installation
reinstall ground jumper
install new valve assembly in dishwasher
reconnect hose and hose clamp
reconnect inlet line
reconnect spade lugs
turn on supply line, check for leaks
turn on breaker
start washer at appropriate cycle to test water flow
done!
All Instructions for the DW861UQP
61-75 of 493