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DW861UQP Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for DW861UQP parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DW861UQP
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Dishwasher leaks water

  • Customer: Andrew from Northfield OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two plates located below the dishwasher door to expose the float switch. I removed the two screws holding float switch, I removed screw holding switch actuator, then I removed float assembly.
Installed new float assembly, but could not use the float palnut, it had too small of a hole, I substituted a larger one that fit the float better. Note I fitted the palnut to the float (the nut cuts it's own threads in the float) before installing the float. This made installation easier. Next I transferred the two wires from the old float switch to the new float switch in the same positions as the existing switch wires. Then I installed the float switch. Finally, I cleaned up the float switch actuator and screw so that the actuator moves freely on the screw. I then installed the float switch actuator and ran the dishwasher to check for proper operation. Note: this float and switch control the water level in the dishwasher. If the actuator sticks, the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the float has collected dirt inside, it will weigh more and the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the switch sticks or fails the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. That is why I relaced the parts: float and switch. I don't want to go back and work on this again.
Lastly, after a few days of proper operation, I installed the two plates located below the dishwasher door. Job done!

The dishwasher wouldn't fill with water.

  • Customer: Jared from Rutland VT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I first turned off the water to the dishwasher, then the electricity to it, then took off the front bottom access panel, I then unbolted the inlet valve from the side of the machine, undid the electrical hookups remembering which one connected to which, then unclamped the two hoses, I then put the new one back in place, redoing the hoses and electrical and bolting it back to the side of the machine, then putting the front bottom access panel back on, then turning back on the water and electicity. The one thing that may make it easier if you can is to pull the dishwasher out from under the cabinets and lay it down so the bottom is exposed. This would make the process a little smoother.

Water Valve would not open to allow water into DishWasher

  • Customer: Bob from Allen TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 22 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
First, I removed the foot plate(s) at the bottom of the Dishwasher. (2 screws each side)

Then I removed the two top screws at the front of the dish-washer. The screws were mounted into a board under the counter that had broken loose. (A minor secondary issue specific to my situation.)

I gently inched the dishwasher out from under the cabinets.

SLOWLY, I tipped the dishwasher over on its side, allowing the water still inside to drain into a pan. Minor cleanup required for the cup or two that missed.

I then had access to the part. I disconnected the power from the wall socket, and I closed the valve for the inlet water from under the sink.

I removed the screws holding the Water Valve to the DishWasher case. Then I took a sharpie and marked one side of one of the two power connectors, black-mark to black-mark.

When I went to disconnect the inlet pipe, there was more dripping than I expected, so the valve under the sink was not closing completely. I needed to shut off the water supply to the house for the next stage.

I disconnected the inlet water supply, which continued to drip slightly into a bucket. I then removed the coupler from the old water valve. It was badly clogged and corroded, so I went to a local HW store and found an exact match 3/8" to 3/8" right angle coupler with compression fitting on one end.

BIG TRICK, before installing the new coupler, WRAP the compression fitting threads with teflon tape. You will not be able to wrap it once it is installed. In fact, I needed to uninstall the part once after I discovered this, to wrap the threads smoothly.

Once pre-wrapped, wrap the other threads that screw into the water valve. Tighten until secure, AND aligned with the direction of the flow tubes of the original.

Match the electrical connectors, black-mark to the same position as before. (The new water valve will NOT have the black-mark on it, unless you transfer one!)

Connect the Water valve back to the Dish Washer chassis with the two screws previously removed.

Connect the inlet water back to the compression fitting with the pre-wrapped threads.

Gently return the dishwasher to upright, and then plug it in.

Open the valve under the sink slowly and watch for drips or leaks.

Run the dishwasher at the start of a cycle, long enough to determine that the valve activates, and allows water to flow. Then stop the cycle.

Gently walk the dishwasher back under the counter, observing that you do not kink the copper water inlet pipe, or the drain pipe.

Adjust the feet, if necessary, back to fully support and level the dishwasher.

Install the two screws holding the dishwasher to the cabinet front. Then install the kick plates and tighten those 4 screws.

Clean up any residual water from the process.

Leaking at bottom of door

  • Customer: E L from Seeley Lake MT
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

son used door for a step and bent as well as broke spring door component

  • Customer: kathleen from farmersville CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed the 2 holding screws fron the underside of the counter then oulled the dishwasher out about a foot. i then removed the side panel that hold the front plate in plase on the right, below this were the screws that held the door hinge assembly on the right. i then proceeded to remove those bolts. and replaced with the new one. replacing the spring and the linkage came next no tools required. i have to say that the diagram when i ordered helped emensly. i am a 45 yr old woman and fixed it by nyself thanks to your ordering diagrams. life is good!!

The spray arm support broke off when I forced the bottom drawer out. (the extending jet thing hadn't retracted.

  • Customer: Martin from Campbell CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Whoever manufactures this part, hope they read this and strenthen this part. The very thin legs break very easily.

I removed the threaded broken-off part from the extension thing. The spay arm came off, since nothing was holding it on any more. I pried the cover off below that - 4 tangs.
Then I used needle nose pliers to unto the strange pointed nut that holds the spray arm support in place. Then removed the borken support, replaced with the new and reassembled in the reverse order of disassembly. Really pretty easy.

Door was leaking badly

  • Customer: Aimee from Mount Pleasant MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
After performing some maintenance to get the water flowing properly through the system (that's another story) the door was leaking very badly during any test run of the dishwasher.

We thought it was the gasket because the old one was calcified and dried out from years of harder water.

We ordered the new one and in minutes after receiving the new gasket we had a firm seal and our dishwasher was back in action.

My old dishwasher racks were worn and rusty.

  • Customer: TODD from HASLET TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 19 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I simply ordered new rack assembly for the upper and lower rack units. Removed the old racks and slid in the new ones. I gotta say, Part Select saved me $50 for these racks compared to everywhere else I looked and called.

Thank you Part Select !!!

Dishwasher would not drain / pump out the water

  • Customer: Christopher from Cape May Court House NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First I called a repairman. He saw it was a certain model Maytag and would not fix it. It washed, but would not drain, so rather than buy another I took about an hour to carefully remove the washer and the motor / bowl unit from the body. Then it was easy to see what was wrong. The problem was a broken lifter arm in the bottom of the bowl. This caused the drain solenoid piston to "travel" too far and actually dislodge from the solenoid during use. You have to remove the lower spray arm, drain grate and then the lifter is a little black plastic "arm" on a metal rod that is actuated by the solenoid under the washer. The lifter fits over the rod and is held with a snap ring. Re-assembly was easy.

Leaking on right fromt of the door.

  • Customer: Gary from Longville MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
removed the door gasket by just pulling it out and pushing the new one in its place. very easy, took five minutes at most. Then removed the 7 screws holding the inside of the door in place, removed the dispenser assembly, held by two drive screws and replaced the dispenser door latch grommet. Finally, removed the insulation foam gasket. Had to scrape the old adhesive from the door as the old a\gasket had disintegrated. This took the most time. Then just pressed the new foam gasket in place. Reading the comments from others was a big help. Don't think I would have replaced the dispenser grommet had I not been warned about it. I'm sure it was part of the problem. All is well now, no leaks.

Bad switch that appeared to be worse than it appeared

  • Customer: Stuart from White Hall AR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
1. Turned power to the unit off.
2. Used a star bit to remove the 7 screws holding the door panel in place.
3. Handed each to my 2 year-old grand daughter.
4. Removed a 1" switch metal retaining plate and a black plastic cover. Removed one screw holding the switch in place.
5. Gently lifted out the old switch and compared it to the replacement switch.
6. Inserted the two black connectors into the new switch.
7. Removed each of the four wires connected to the old switch and connected each, in-turn, to the new switch. Removed the exterior black handle from the old switch and snapped it into place on the new switch.
8. Put the switch into place, reinstalled the black plastic housing cover and long 1" metal switch retaining panel.
9. Set the door cover in place and let the 2 year-old screw in the 7 retaining screws.
10. Don't have to listen to the wife complain about the dishwasher anymore.

float leaking

  • Customer: phillip from hodges AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
float was missing palnut and letting the float slide up too much causing small leak around the float

Dispenser lid would not open

  • Customer: Douglas from Pottstown PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
The wax motor seemed to work.
At first I thought something was broken and I tried to figure out the "theory of operation" Working the actuator of the wax motor, I COULD NOT GE THE LATCH TO MOVE THE WAY I THOUGHT IT SHOULD. I ASSUMED EITHER IT WAS BROKEN IN SOME WAY I COULD NOT DETECT OR THERE WAS A FLAW IN ITS DESIGN!

It took a long time to figure out the latch would not be worked open unless it was actually holding the lid- this positions the latch at "half mast" and allows the mechanism to "pick it up from there" and open the rest of the way. So once I figured that out, I concluded the failure was really just worn out parts that were out of tolerance for how this "half mast" position and opening was supposed to work. So I ordered all fresh pieces just to be sure, assembled it (very easy) and put it in (easy). It all works fine now.

Dishwasher leaking below door

  • Customer: Donald from Pittsford NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
This ended up to be a (2) phase project. The first repair was to replace the door seal and inner door foam. Thanks to earlier online comments this part was really easy, but we still had a small leak. When I had removed the interior face of the door panel to replace the inner door foam, I had noticed the insulation was wet and deducted that the 'soap cup door latch gasket' was the real culprit so I had to place a second order (Phase 2). The order came quickly and in time for next Saturdays to to list. My advice is to replace all 4 items at the same time and save on mailing cost and repair time; reservoir O-ring, soap cup door latch gasket, inner foam gasket and door gasket. net repair time, about an hour start to finish.
Don and Rosie
Rochester, NY

My dishrack and silverware basket were broken

  • Customer: William from Sheperdstown WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
I just replaced them with new ones. Unfortunately the new dishwasher rack was not as sturdy as the original. Hence, when it is loaded the wheel assembly sags and the center portion goes lower. Therefore, while rolling it in and out it hits the center jets and requires that we pick it up as it rolls: acceptable inconvenience but not pleasing.

I fear that with many people using it, eventually the plastic top or plastic extension of the center jet will break off.
All Instructions for the DW861UQP
16-30 of 483