DW760W-CAN Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Removed Torx (T20) screws around perimiter of inside cover. Lifted cover and inverted it, then disconnected the two terminals from the wax motor. Wire and motor terminals had green corrosion and entire motor/latch assembly was caked with accumulated detergent. After ensuring circuit was not hot, cleaned wire terminals by soaking ends (one a a time) in white vinegar, then water, then a spritz of WD-40. Removed old assmebly and reservoir, then thoroughly cleaned inside cover and vacuumed inside of dishwasher door. Took digital pics at each step of disassembly as a reference when reassembling.

Instructions provided with conversion kit are useless. Attached parts, motor, and gasket to new assembly first, using old assembly as a guide. then attached to cover before replacing reservoir. Inserted plunger into reservoir and twisted to secure. Installed o-ring and mounted reservoir; slot on reservoir mates with tab on assembly, and white lever arm actuates plunger. Reattached wires to motor and replaced inside cover. Ran a wash cycle and confirmed cup lid opened.

Note that my model only had one wax motor, so new assembly was identical to old and the Y-cable was not needed. As another commenter pointed out, latch assembly will not appear to work correctly manipulated by hand until you remember that cup lid holds latch at midpoint of travel at start of wash.

Dealer phone quote = $250. DIY repair = $55.
Turn-off DW electrical circuit breaker and shut-off hot water supply. Remove lower Front Access Panel and Toe Panel. Disconnect hot water supply, corrugated drain hose, electrical connection, and uncounter mounting brackets. Slide-out DW (being careful not to scratch flooring) and gently tip DW onto its back side. Rotate Ring-Lock at underside of Tub and (from inside the Tub) carefully lift out Motor-and-Pump assembly. At the Motor-and-Pump assembly, unscrew Center Spray Nozzle and remove Lower Spray Arm and lv Filter. At the end of the Impeller, remove Chopper Screw, Chopper, Chopper Plate (rotate 1/4 turn) and Chopper Wear Ring. Remove Motor Mount Screws and Motor Shield. Loosen Impeller {NOTE: left-hand thread} from motor shaft by the holding Motor Fan stationary and unscrewing Impeller. Pull apart the Motor and Impeller; discard old Impeller. Gently and thoroughly clean the internal surface of Housing Assembly seal with a toothbrush and soapy water. Carefully reassemble in the reverse order using the new Impeller. (Prophylactically, I also replaced the Motor "O" Ring and Pump Gasket.) DW works perfectly; no leaks!

The repair was EASY! Took bottom drawer out. Used tool to remove 3 screws that held belly screen and washer arms together. Used needlenose plyers to unscrew long pointed center screw (plastic!) then reassmenbled! Hey BATTA BING BATTA BOOM!

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Once I pulled the old broken drain valve lever lifter off the shaft, the shaft rotated counter clockwise. I then had to turn shaft back clockwise so there was enough room to slip the new part on. Needle nose pliers worked great to hold it in place while regular pliers in the other hand was used to turn the shaft.

Sooooooooo, I ordered a new kick plate, it arrived promptly, tried installing it and it was being difficult. Removed plate above that and lined up new plate(kick plate) tried putting plate above it on and as when we installed the machine that upper plate was difficult. Removed upper plate to fcheck problem of installation and guess what? Stuck in the inside of the upper plate was the lower plate complete with sound insulation. Happy ending :-)

After removing the parts so I could get at the o-ring, I replaced the o-ring and restarted the dishwasher. Water was still getting past. Maybe has something to do with the difficulty of tightening around the short shoulder near the o-ring. To overcome the problem I applied a thin layer of Marine Goop under and over the o-ruing and reassembled the parts. Now no leaks.

It was difficult to use the guide provided online to determine what position to place the spring in. Finally I realized that the spring had to be placed with the tip that sticks out against the wall of the dishwasher to make the spring action work. The long and short pins were not a problem. How to place the spring was the main problem, but I finally figured it out. I did not need any special tools to accomplish this. I just used a kitchen knife to push the short pin into place.

Open the soap dispenser door. On the top right side, there is a round pin holder. Take a small brad or nail and knock the pin out from right to left. Hold the door in place and after the right side pin is out, carefully slide the door up and to the right in order to remove the pin and spring from the left side slot. Notice how the spring is inserted in the slot as it has to go back in exactly as it came out. (short end first. Long end last.)

Put the spring on the left side pin and reinsert the door into place and then tap in he right side pin.

You're done but you won't know that until you run the dishwasher and if the dispenser door is open
at the end of the wash cycle, you did good. If not you have to reinsert the spring properly or buy a new spring if you've damaged the old one.

Good luck.,

RBM

Took out the pins that hold the detergent cup on, beginning with the side without the spring. Make sure you check how the side with the spring is installed before you take it out. If it's not done right when you put the new one on the lid won't spring open. Then installed the new detergent cup lid. Easy as pie and it would have cost $50 to just have someone come out to look at it and this cost $12. Can't beat that!

I followed the directions in the dishwasher manual how to remove the top rack of the dishwasher, basically removing the stops on each side, and I set the rack on the counter. I replaced both sides even though one had not yet broken. To replace the part, 5 screws had to be removed; I used an allen wrench. The replacement location of the part was pretty obvious once the screws were removed. The inside of the plastic piece that was opened in the process of removing the defective part was dirty so I took some time to clean that out before attaching the new part. The actual unscrewing and attaching the new part probably took 10 or 15 minutes per side. It took a few tries to get the height adjusting lever to move freely before I tightened the screws. The rack works great now.

This is the second time I've purchased parts from PartSelect.com. Actually called Lowe's parts hotline and got disconnected three times. Went online with PartSelect.com and purchased the items within 5 minutes. Parts arrived within 2 days. Will definitely be purchasing parts from PartSelect.com again when needed!!!

I hand screwed the pieces together and screwed them by hand into the proper location in the dish washer. I turned on the dishwasher and it worked !!!!

My dishwasher hasn't been working for 6 years because of this broken part and I couldn't afford the house call of a tech. When I found your site I realized I could do it myself !

ALL HAIL PARTSELECT.COM!!!!!!!!

Thanks to your diagrams and easy to order parts I am a happy homemaker !!!!!

The replacement part was the perfect size but the threading on the terminal ends was increases to 1/2" v the 7/16" from the previous element. My first attempt was to find a similar type of part at the local hardware store(not a superstore)since I planned to replace the grommets anyway. After not having any success, I came home and modified the fasteners by slowly drilling out the id of the fasteners until they threaded properly. The time to replace after the drill out was less than 10 min and the ~$45.00 is significantly less than $450.00 for a new unit.
If I would ask anything of part select, it would be to include fastening hardware as re-engineering of products is a continual process.

I used the parts blowup diagram on PartSelect.com and dissasembled the bottom wash assembly. Carefully examining how the washer arm rotated, I determined that the spray arm support nut had broken. The extended top of it has broken off. This nut, when tightened, allows the spray arm to rotate freely. In trying to diagnose the problem, I had even removed the motor assembly at the very bottom. When I reassembled it, I apparently did not seat the gasket well and did not tighten the bolts well, so when I tested the washer, water leaked out the bottom. So, I had to dissasemble it all again and properly torque the bolts. So, I really created another problem during the diagnosis.