DW760B-CAN Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly.

Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed.
Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.

Peeled off the old foam strip, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, let dry completely, applied new foam strip,replaced door interior done I wish repairing relationships with fiance and kids were one tenth this easy.

Dealer phone quote = $250. DIY repair = $55.
Turn-off DW electrical circuit breaker and shut-off hot water supply. Remove lower Front Access Panel and Toe Panel. Disconnect hot water supply, corrugated drain hose, electrical connection, and uncounter mounting brackets. Slide-out DW (being careful not to scratch flooring) and gently tip DW onto its back side. Rotate Ring-Lock at underside of Tub and (from inside the Tub) carefully lift out Motor-and-Pump assembly. At the Motor-and-Pump assembly, unscrew Center Spray Nozzle and remove Lower Spray Arm and lv Filter. At the end of the Impeller, remove Chopper Screw, Chopper, Chopper Plate (rotate 1/4 turn) and Chopper Wear Ring. Remove Motor Mount Screws and Motor Shield. Loosen Impeller {NOTE: left-hand thread} from motor shaft by the holding Motor Fan stationary and unscrewing Impeller. Pull apart the Motor and Impeller; discard old Impeller. Gently and thoroughly clean the internal surface of Housing Assembly seal with a toothbrush and soapy water. Carefully reassemble in the reverse order using the new Impeller. (Prophylactically, I also replaced the Motor "O" Ring and Pump Gasket.) DW works perfectly; no leaks!

The repair was EASY! Took bottom drawer out. Used tool to remove 3 screws that held belly screen and washer arms together. Used needlenose plyers to unscrew long pointed center screw (plastic!) then reassmenbled! Hey BATTA BING BATTA BOOM!

Removed Torx (T20) screws around perimiter of inside cover. Lifted cover and inverted it, then disconnected the two terminals from the wax motor. Wire and motor terminals had green corrosion and entire motor/latch assembly was caked with accumulated detergent. After ensuring circuit was not hot, cleaned wire terminals by soaking ends (one a a time) in white vinegar, then water, then a spritz of WD-40. Removed old assmebly and reservoir, then thoroughly cleaned inside cover and vacuumed inside of dishwasher door. Took digital pics at each step of disassembly as a reference when reassembling.

Instructions provided with conversion kit are useless. Attached parts, motor, and gasket to new assembly first, using old assembly as a guide. then attached to cover before replacing reservoir. Inserted plunger into reservoir and twisted to secure. Installed o-ring and mounted reservoir; slot on reservoir mates with tab on assembly, and white lever arm actuates plunger. Reattached wires to motor and replaced inside cover. Ran a wash cycle and confirmed cup lid opened.

Note that my model only had one wax motor, so new assembly was identical to old and the Y-cable was not needed. As another commenter pointed out, latch assembly will not appear to work correctly manipulated by hand until you remember that cup lid holds latch at midpoint of travel at start of wash.

Actual i missed diagnosed the leak and ordered a very expensive door gasket. The leak was coming from shrinage of the wax resevoire o rig and the tab seal for the soap dispensor. I missed the trees the forest got in the way. The leak was dripping alond the front panel well away from the main door seal.

I cleans a the plastic surfaces and noticed a lip around the opening for the reservoire and used 150 sandpaper to remove it. Replaced the O ring, tab seal and bothe selonoids and cleaned everything. Put it back together. Works find lasts along time

The repair is fairly simple except that the diagram on the web site has an error - it reverses the positions of the long hinge pin and the short pin. I kept trying to do it as the diagram showed and of course it didn't work. Then I followed my instincts! The only other difficult part was figuring out which way to insert the spring but there are only a few options so trial and error was the simplest way.

Remove inner door by removing 7 torx screws. flip inner door up, propping it between the open door and the countertop.

Leave the drying solution reservour in place, remove two screws holding wax motor retainer. remove motor. (You might want to dissassemble door latch mechanism and replace latch seal, which is probably why wax motor failed to begin with. it simply slides over the latch FROM THE INSIDE.) Then reassemble.

I also cleaned up the main inner door seal. after that, the dishwasher leaked pretty good everytime the sprayer arm revolved. It took awhile to figure out I had rubbed off some rubber, although not much, BUT ENOUGH to make it leak.

SIMPLE FIX: Simply pull out seal, TURN IT OVER, so the back is now the front, AND RE-INSERT. No more leak. Saved 42 dollars.

Also: if your washer has two wax motors, (and you don't use drying agent) just swap the drying agent wax motor with defective soap dispenser motor. No cost repair.

First of all, rather then spending the 44 dollars on the main door seal simply cut yours in halve and trim a quarter of an inch from the disintegrated ends and use superglue and glue these ends together. this glued end will now be up top and in the middle and new clean ends will be down in the corners. next I removed the plastic door panel using a torxhead screwdriver, I just stuck the new inner foam pad on the old one. Then I glued rubber washers to the inner frame about 1/8 thick in the top 2 corners only. Finally I reattached the plastic door being careful not to tighten the torx head bolts just tight enough. It's dry and working good.

threw out the broken and put in a fantastically improved new one. very easy (would have done it sooner if I'd known it was that simple to find it online and order it) thanks

Took off the float, the jam nut was hard to get off, we ended up breaking the bottom piece of the float to get it off, but that was okay because we had a new float. The new float went on real easy and the jam nut went back on real easy. The foam insulation strip was real easy to get off we got a good hold of one end and striped it off slowly so there was nothing left on the door, then we cleaned the surface and put on the new insulation strip. We ran dishwasher to test it and there was no leak. Awesome. Cheap and easy to repair. We were impressed.

Once I pulled the old broken drain valve lever lifter off the shaft, the shaft rotated counter clockwise. I then had to turn shaft back clockwise so there was enough room to slip the new part on. Needle nose pliers worked great to hold it in place while regular pliers in the other hand was used to turn the shaft.

Removed four screws on bottom plate. Located repair site on outside of cabinet. Had to hook spring on bottom rear plate by brail. Then attached linkage to spring and ran stiff wire through linkage to raise it above arm. Called a man with stronger but larger hands had him stretch the spring while I guided linkage over arm and into the slot using the wire. Removed stiff wire with needle nose pliers and reassembled front plate.

After removing the parts so I could get at the o-ring, I replaced the o-ring and restarted the dishwasher. Water was still getting past. Maybe has something to do with the difficulty of tightening around the short shoulder near the o-ring. To overcome the problem I applied a thin layer of Marine Goop under and over the o-ruing and reassembled the parts. Now no leaks.

It was difficult to use the guide provided online to determine what position to place the spring in. Finally I realized that the spring had to be placed with the tip that sticks out against the wall of the dishwasher to make the spring action work. The long and short pins were not a problem. How to place the spring was the main problem, but I finally figured it out. I did not need any special tools to accomplish this. I just used a kitchen knife to push the short pin into place.