DW1000B Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

After replacing the door gasket and seeing that this wasn't the problem, using the schematics found at partselect.com I finally realized that it may be the insulation foam strip. I ordered the product and received it very quickly. Installation went fairly quickly. It was easy to remove the old foam strip and install the new one. The only problem was that the foam strip was about 1/4 " too short and it didn't cover the entire bottom. I improvised a little bit and cut off some of the old strip and covered the gap. So far the leak seems to have been fixed. In addition to the foam strip I had to buy a torx screwdriver for $11 at the local hardware store. The total spent was around $25.

I removed the dishwasher to outside the house and examined it for signs of leakage. Found 2, one at the water injector and a second at the bottom right of the front door. In checking the water injector I found that a large roach had crawled in and died which was blocking the inlet into the dishwasher. I cleaned that out. I examined the door and seal but could not find any obvious source for the door leak. I purchased locally a door seal and installed it. I connected the dishwasher up to water and electricity using a grounded plug. I also hooked up a drain hose (be sure to put an elevated loop in it to keep the water from draining before being pumped out). I ran the dishwasher and found water still dripping from inside the front door during the wash cycle only. After unplugging the dishwasher, I removed the door's front decorative panel (2 screws, one on each outside lower edge) and began watching through one of the 1.5" holes punched in the door metal panel. I noted that during the wash cycle only, water was dripping from the area of the soap dispensor release mechanism. I the inner door plastic panel, by removing the seven screws. I also had to remove the dispensor release actuator since I could not pull the 2 wire connectors off without fearing I would break the mounting tabs off. I released the tabs that held in the actuator easily with my fingers freeing the actuator from the inner plastic panel. The only place that I could see an opening was the the release arm and its rubber seal. However the rubber seal was heavily caked with hardened detergent. Feeling that the seal rubber was probably hardened and cracked, I released it. I had to remove the release arm assembly held in with 2 screws. I reassembled the assembly with the new seal in and ran the dishwasher. No leaks. I did find that if I had just pulled the seal and rubbed it between my fingers the dried detergent would break off and the rubber itself was fine. Should have tried that first. I did replace the dispensor door because of crusted detergent on the door seal. I could not get the crusty stuff off without tearing the seal. I used a small thin punch to push the hinge pin (non spring side) from the plastic inner panel to the dispensor door side releasing the hinge and allowing the door to come out. Reinstalled the pins and spring into the new door. After putting the dispensor door in place, I pushed the hinge pin (non spring side) through the door hinge into the inner plastic panel.
I also wanted to improve the cleaning level that had decreased over the years. I removed the uppper pump housing by removing the hand nut on the lower spray bar then the 6 T-20 torx screws. Inside the plastic filter screen. I found that the screen was partially plugged by either minerals or dried detergent. The old one was stuck slightly to the lower pump housing. I tried to poke out the debris out of each of the screen holes but was taking way too long. I did not try chemicals but since I was ordering parts made sense to have a new one shipped in. You have to snap the new screen together and align the edges before inserting it into the lower pump housing. Reassemble the upper pump housing. Be sure to clean the filter spinning arms of debris along with the lower (and upper) spray arms befrore reassembling them. Ran the dishwasher a couple of full cycles to check for leaks and found none.
FYI, the dishwasher will not clean as well if you fill it with cold water and even with the heat element, the cycles take a very long time to run through to allow for heating the water. Once I reinstalled the dishwasher, I notice an improvement in cleaning.
Good luck.

Removed the old gasket, without tools, and fit the new gasket into the space, making sure it was in the groove correctly all around, job done, works great. The ordering of the gasket on this site was easy and the shipping time was amazing, one day. Would use this company again, and recommend to anyone needing parts that wants to do repairs themself. I am sure saved a whole lot over hiring someone, and got the job done sooner also.

Took off bottom plate for access. Slid part that holds bottom of spring forward so I could reach it without pulling dishwasher out of position. Hooked spring to bottom attachment, then connected door spring linkage to holder that is attached to the dishwasher frame. Adjusted the tension with the tension screw and buttoned up bottom plate.

1- turn power off. 2- remove 7 screws to take door apart 3- remove 2 screws to take dispenser out. 4- i unhooked electic plug from it. 5- replace grommet and all back together. not bad to be 72 years old.

After examining the door and main seal around the dishwasher I thought everything looked okay. I looked online to order a new seal anyway and discovered from others that the leak was probably the insulation strip inside the door rather than the seal around the dishwasher. I ordered an insulation strip and it arrived a couple days later. I removed the seven screws of the interior door cover and disconnected the electrical. After removing the old insulation strip and installig the new one I reconnected the electrical wiring/plugs, put the door cover back on, and reinstalled the screws. Total time was about 15-20 minutes and the leak stopped. It was very easy and saved the cost of a repairman or a new dishwasher. I'm very glad that I "listened" to others and went with the new insulation strip.

1) Remove the lower dish rack.
2) Use towel to soak up any water in the dishwasher.
3) Remove the bottom plate on the dishwasher front.
4) Remove clamp from around the discharge hose. Some water will drain out so have towel handy.
5) Dishwasher will need to be pulled out from its built-in area in order to feed the old discharge hose out and the new one in. MAKE SURE THAT THERE IS ENOUGH PLAY IN THE ELECTRICAL WIRES AND THE INPUT WATER LINE TO THE DISHWASHER TO ALLOW IT TO BE PULLED OUT.
6) Loosen, all the way, the white plastic locking arm that clamps the pump housing. It clamps on a white corrugated plastic piece.
7) Remove the spindle arm inside the washer by unscrewing the "tower" piece.
8) Remove the screws from the pump housing on the inside of the washer.
9) Lift the pump housing carefully and remove the rubber gasket from around the housing. There is enough play to remove the gasket and put the new one on.
10) Clean the area around the housing so that the new gasket seats properly.
11) The new gasket will have to be installed before re-installing the discharge hose.
12) Re-install screws in pump housing.
13) Re-install the spindle arm.
14) Tighten the white plastic locking arm underneath the washer that locks down the pump housing.
15) The new discharge hose can now be reconnected between the sink drain and the dishwasher.
16) Dishwasher can now be put back into its place.
17) Before closing up the bottom plate of the dishwasher, it should be run and checked for leaks before finally closing up. My advice - let it stand overnight before checking for leaks. after running.

My original order was for the "Motor Gasket" in the bottom of the tub that just looked nasty. Not leaking. Replacing that was a little more complicated, but used another customer's recommendations and worked great. Ran an empty load to check for leaks and thats when we discovered that we had a leak on the side of the darn thing. So we ordered the "Injector Seal Ring. Got it in about 5 days and after installing, (2 seconds), we still had a leak! Soooo, ordered the "Water Inlet Injector". 5 days later, we have NO MORE LEAKS!!! I would STRONGLY suggest that anyone who has a leak at the Water Inlet, order a new Injector right along with the Seal Ring. The shipping and handling was WAY more than the price of the parts. I'm happy to say that my 10 year old dishwasher is running like a champ. Thank You.

Our dishwasher got to the point where it would not complete a wash cycle. I found that by jiggling the door latch, the dishwasher would whir back to life. For awhile, if I put a clothespin on the door latch, somehow enough pressure would be put on the switch to keep the dishwasher going. Finally, the dishwasher refused to cooperate...so I ordered a replacement switch.

The repair was easy. I only had to remove the interior door panel, unscrew the metal bar at the top of the door and underneath the door panel, then remove the black plastic shield. After that, it was just a matter of wiggling the old switch out and wiggling the new switch.

CAUTION: Be very sure that the power to the dishwasher is turned off. I got a scare because I thought the circuit breaker was off, but I had flipped the wrong one and suddenly, with my fingers very close to the bare connectors, the dishwasher came back to life briefly. I ran downstairs and found the correct circuit breaker and all was fine after that.

First I removed the tower and lower spray arm. Took the filter cover off eight screws. Removed nut holding support assembly. Installed support and reassembled.

I would like to say that the price, shipping and quality of the part were all excellent and I would have no problem doing business with this company again.

Simply remove the washer nut,then pull the float assembly. As far the lever,just unscrew the screw and replace the actuator lever. What was great about everything I was able to go to the presented diagram. This allowed me to find the exact parts I needed. Of course make sure you have the model number.

Make sure dishwasher is powered off. Remove all inner door panel screws. Lift inner door panel upward and lean against the tub. Use a putty knife or spatula to lift old lower foam seal. Make sure door seal area is clean. Start at one end, butt new foam against the side of door and slowly pull glue strip backing while pressing foam down from left to right. Reverse door assembly.

Make sure dishwasher if off and door unlatched. Remove lower kick panel 4 screws and remove 1 screw securing float switch arm. Hold float stem with pliers and remove bottom stem nut. Remove float and re-install the new float with reverse procedure listed.
Super fast shipping on items!! Great service.

Remove the Palnut Screw from bottom of Float assembly using pliers, Remove Pivot pin from Actuator lever w/ screw driver. Replace the Float , install new palnut Screw and re-install pivot pin on actuator lever.

That's it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The repair is fairly simple except that the diagram on the web site has an error - it reverses the positions of the long hinge pin and the short pin. I kept trying to do it as the diagram showed and of course it didn't work. Then I followed my instincts! The only other difficult part was figuring out which way to insert the spring but there are only a few options so trial and error was the simplest way.