DU6550P Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

We discovered water leaking from the underside of the dishwasher. A closer inspection revealed that a pinhole had opened up in the rubber coupling at the bottom of the top shower pump hose. This piece is permanently attached to the pump hose, so you have to replace the whole thing. Repairing the dishwasher was an easy and straightforward affair as many other reviewers have described. The biggest difference between my experience and others was the presence of a cloth-like covering over the entire tub of the dishwasher. I assume this was either a thermal or sound insulation of some kind. To access the shower pump hose, it was necessary to remove the covering just enough to reach everything. The cover was held in place by some flexible black plastic pins. All that was needed was to work these back and forth until they slipped out of the underlying metal structure. Once I had the insulation pulled back it was a few quick minutes and the dishwasher was up and running.

Our dishwasher has two gaskets, one around the top and one on the bottom. We ordered these two pieces with the help of staff at PartSelect who were very helpful and savvy. The gasket around the top part was very easy, had to be pulled out and replaced with the new one. We made sure the gasket went in exactly as we pulled it out with the thicker side inside the groove. We had to struggle with the bottom gasket that was stuck due to lots of hard water deposits. We cleaned first with lime-remover and then pulled out the rubber gasket from the bottom and pushed in the new one in the same direction. We had to do this twice before we got it situated. Then we loaded the dishwasher with cleaner and ran the cycle. No more water leaking out the sides.! Success!

It was a walk in the park with the how to videos on how to install this little part.... That made it very easy and simple... That was the part that helped the most... Thanks...This is a great place to buy repair parts....

I changed all of the switches first because it looked easier than the fill valve under the unit. After all of the switch changes (which were simple and quick) the washer still didn't fill. I removed the water valve and cleaned it, but still wouldn't fill. I reinstalled the old valve for practice, and then ordered water valve. It went alot smoother the second time around. I found it easier to disconect and connect the rubber water line with the hose clamp if I removed the valve from the sidewall of the wahser. Easier to get my fat fingers where they nedded to be. Used a shallow round 1 layer cake pan to catch drips. Works gtear now, and since I had earlier replaced the racks and silverware basket, it's pretty much a "new" twenty year old dishwasher. I went with the rehab instead of just replacing it because it has wood front panels which match our cabinets and wouldn't fit a new unit.

I removed the inner plastic panel from the dishwasher door, and disconnected the two solenoid motors from the soap dispenser assembly. This made it possible to work on the door panel at a table. I disassembled the soap dispenser mechanism and scrubbed everything with a stiff nylon brush and then rinsed it off. I then rebuilt the dispenser mechanism using the new soap door latch and gasket and reinstalled the panel (after scrubbing all soap deposits from the area around the dishwasher door).

It helped that I have some mechanical abilities because instructions were not very clear. The iso drawing was very helpful and help me out alot. Put it back together and works great. Thank you.

We ordered a new one and installed it in less than 10 minutes.

removed old gasket which is a friction fit only. Pried gasket out at bottom on right side and pulled whole gasket out. that took 15 seconds. Looked at old gasket to see how it fit into slot. Pushed new gasket into slot. This took about 2 minutes. job completed. no leaks.Really really easy.

After replacing the door foam strip and the soap dish grommet I still had the water leakage at the bottom of the door, in fact a bit more leakage. Then I replaced the foam insulator strip on the inner door. Still had the leakage! I opened the door after the water finished the fill cycle and noticed the water level was unusually high. Apparently the water float was partially stuck allowing an over fill. I pushed on the float downward a few times and removed some of the water and re-ran the washer. The leak was reduced to a few drops. Removed the float and soaked it in vinegar to clean it and this cured the problem.

simply placed the new float assembly where it needed to go. problem solved!

After reading other repair stories, I ordered the big 3, door gasket, grommet and inner door foam insulation strip. For $80 I wasn't going to do the trial and error method. Parts were here in 1 day, and after doing a trial run prior to receiving the parts, new parts were installed in 20 minutes. Don't know which one was the problem, but no more leak. Happy wife, happy life.

I watched the " How to video " that was supplied on your web-site. It was very easy to do and simple to understand. My wife say's I'm her hero because I saved us a $150.00 service call, + the cost of the gasket, which would have cost more if they furnished it. Thanks----

Removed inner door panel , remove latch assy, installed new latch and wax motor , screwed panel back in place ! done!! Less than 10 mins

simply replaced linkage and reconnected. Very easy

Removed the old strip - cleaned the channel and installed the new gasket. Soooo easy. Unfortunately it's still leaking so now I'm ordering the gasket kit. Should have done it to begin with - like everyone else does!!!