Models > DU4K Maytag > Instructions

DU4K Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for DU4K parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DU4K
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Soap dispenser stopped opening.

  • Customer: Elliott from Tucson AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 21 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed 7 Torx screws holding the plastic housing to the door. Then removed two hex screws holding the
dispenser in place. At first I thought that the wax motor was broken, but measuring it with an ohm meter, it had the same resistance as a new wax motor (about 2-3 kOhms). Examining the release mechanism it looked like the stem at the back of the latch was a bit bent. I replaced both the latch and the slider. However, I probably only needed to replace the slider. After reassembling the pieces, the soap dispenser now works. By the way, as another poster noted, you can only test the mechanism when the dispenser door is closed and the latch is
displaced from its normal position.

Dishwasher leaks water

  • Customer: Andrew from Northfield OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two plates located below the dishwasher door to expose the float switch. I removed the two screws holding float switch, I removed screw holding switch actuator, then I removed float assembly.
Installed new float assembly, but could not use the float palnut, it had too small of a hole, I substituted a larger one that fit the float better. Note I fitted the palnut to the float (the nut cuts it's own threads in the float) before installing the float. This made installation easier. Next I transferred the two wires from the old float switch to the new float switch in the same positions as the existing switch wires. Then I installed the float switch. Finally, I cleaned up the float switch actuator and screw so that the actuator moves freely on the screw. I then installed the float switch actuator and ran the dishwasher to check for proper operation. Note: this float and switch control the water level in the dishwasher. If the actuator sticks, the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the float has collected dirt inside, it will weigh more and the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. If the switch sticks or fails the water level will be too high, causing the dishwasher will fill with too much water and leak. That is why I relaced the parts: float and switch. I don't want to go back and work on this again.
Lastly, after a few days of proper operation, I installed the two plates located below the dishwasher door. Job done!

son used door for a step and bent as well as broke spring door component

  • Customer: kathleen from farmersville CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 20 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed the 2 holding screws fron the underside of the counter then oulled the dishwasher out about a foot. i then removed the side panel that hold the front plate in plase on the right, below this were the screws that held the door hinge assembly on the right. i then proceeded to remove those bolts. and replaced with the new one. replacing the spring and the linkage came next no tools required. i have to say that the diagram when i ordered helped emensly. i am a 45 yr old woman and fixed it by nyself thanks to your ordering diagrams. life is good!!

Leaking at bottom of door

  • Customer: E L from Seeley Lake MT
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

Door was leaking badly

  • Customer: Aimee from Mount Pleasant MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
After performing some maintenance to get the water flowing properly through the system (that's another story) the door was leaking very badly during any test run of the dishwasher.

We thought it was the gasket because the old one was calcified and dried out from years of harder water.

We ordered the new one and in minutes after receiving the new gasket we had a firm seal and our dishwasher was back in action.

The spray arm support broke off when I forced the bottom drawer out. (the extending jet thing hadn't retracted.

  • Customer: Martin from Campbell CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 16 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Whoever manufactures this part, hope they read this and strenthen this part. The very thin legs break very easily.

I removed the threaded broken-off part from the extension thing. The spay arm came off, since nothing was holding it on any more. I pried the cover off below that - 4 tangs.
Then I used needle nose pliers to unto the strange pointed nut that holds the spray arm support in place. Then removed the borken support, replaced with the new and reassembled in the reverse order of disassembly. Really pretty easy.

My old dishwasher racks were worn and rusty.

  • Customer: TODD from HASLET TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 19 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I simply ordered new rack assembly for the upper and lower rack units. Removed the old racks and slid in the new ones. I gotta say, Part Select saved me $50 for these racks compared to everywhere else I looked and called.

Thank you Part Select !!!

Leaking on right fromt of the door.

  • Customer: Gary from Longville MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
removed the door gasket by just pulling it out and pushing the new one in its place. very easy, took five minutes at most. Then removed the 7 screws holding the inside of the door in place, removed the dispenser assembly, held by two drive screws and replaced the dispenser door latch grommet. Finally, removed the insulation foam gasket. Had to scrape the old adhesive from the door as the old a\gasket had disintegrated. This took the most time. Then just pressed the new foam gasket in place. Reading the comments from others was a big help. Don't think I would have replaced the dispenser grommet had I not been warned about it. I'm sure it was part of the problem. All is well now, no leaks.

Dishwasher would not drain / pump out the water

  • Customer: Christopher from Cape May Court House NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 16 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
First I called a repairman. He saw it was a certain model Maytag and would not fix it. It washed, but would not drain, so rather than buy another I took about an hour to carefully remove the washer and the motor / bowl unit from the body. Then it was easy to see what was wrong. The problem was a broken lifter arm in the bottom of the bowl. This caused the drain solenoid piston to "travel" too far and actually dislodge from the solenoid during use. You have to remove the lower spray arm, drain grate and then the lifter is a little black plastic "arm" on a metal rod that is actuated by the solenoid under the washer. The lifter fits over the rod and is held with a snap ring. Re-assembly was easy.

Bad switch that appeared to be worse than it appeared

  • Customer: Stuart from White Hall AR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
1. Turned power to the unit off.
2. Used a star bit to remove the 7 screws holding the door panel in place.
3. Handed each to my 2 year-old grand daughter.
4. Removed a 1" switch metal retaining plate and a black plastic cover. Removed one screw holding the switch in place.
5. Gently lifted out the old switch and compared it to the replacement switch.
6. Inserted the two black connectors into the new switch.
7. Removed each of the four wires connected to the old switch and connected each, in-turn, to the new switch. Removed the exterior black handle from the old switch and snapped it into place on the new switch.
8. Put the switch into place, reinstalled the black plastic housing cover and long 1" metal switch retaining panel.
9. Set the door cover in place and let the 2 year-old screw in the 7 retaining screws.
10. Don't have to listen to the wife complain about the dishwasher anymore.

float leaking

  • Customer: phillip from hodges AL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
float was missing palnut and letting the float slide up too much causing small leak around the float

Dishwasher leaking below door

  • Customer: Donald from Pittsford NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
This ended up to be a (2) phase project. The first repair was to replace the door seal and inner door foam. Thanks to earlier online comments this part was really easy, but we still had a small leak. When I had removed the interior face of the door panel to replace the inner door foam, I had noticed the insulation was wet and deducted that the 'soap cup door latch gasket' was the real culprit so I had to place a second order (Phase 2). The order came quickly and in time for next Saturdays to to list. My advice is to replace all 4 items at the same time and save on mailing cost and repair time; reservoir O-ring, soap cup door latch gasket, inner foam gasket and door gasket. net repair time, about an hour start to finish.
Don and Rosie
Rochester, NY

Dispenser lid would not open

  • Customer: Douglas from Pottstown PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
The wax motor seemed to work.
At first I thought something was broken and I tried to figure out the "theory of operation" Working the actuator of the wax motor, I COULD NOT GE THE LATCH TO MOVE THE WAY I THOUGHT IT SHOULD. I ASSUMED EITHER IT WAS BROKEN IN SOME WAY I COULD NOT DETECT OR THERE WAS A FLAW IN ITS DESIGN!

It took a long time to figure out the latch would not be worked open unless it was actually holding the lid- this positions the latch at "half mast" and allows the mechanism to "pick it up from there" and open the rest of the way. So once I figured that out, I concluded the failure was really just worn out parts that were out of tolerance for how this "half mast" position and opening was supposed to work. So I ordered all fresh pieces just to be sure, assembled it (very easy) and put it in (easy). It all works fine now.

Dishwasher would not work unless the door was held in with pressure.

  • Customer: Leonard from South Huntington NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws on the inside of the door. Removed the cover and changed door switch and holder and put the new one in. Replaced the cover
all in less than half an hour.

water was dripping from the bottom of the front loading door. Over time this had seeped into the insulation foam strip and formed a solid encrustation within the foam strip.

  • Customer: Dan from Clarkston MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.
All Instructions for the DU4K
16-30 of 410