DU451 Jenn-Air Dishwasher - Instructions

The Retaining Nut of my Upper Spray Arm fell off and was stripped. I was thinking I was going to have to get a new dishwasher because mine is pretty old. I found Partselect.com and plugged in my model number and it gave me all the parts. It cost me less than $10 with shipping and it saved me about $450.

First I was amazed that the belt was available for my ancient dishwasher. Then I was amazed again when it came overnight. The instructions said to stretch it over the two pulleys but my hands weren't strong enough. In a sudden flash of brilliance I decided to use a screwdriver as a lever to force it onto the second pulley. Done deal - happy home handyman.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

I removed four screws and thus the front plate at the bottom of the dishwasher. I then removed the old spring, using a long nose pliers and, still using the pliers, replaced it with the new one. The enclosed instructions were helpful as was the previous letter written by someone with the same problem. I then replaced the bottom plate and the door worked as it should. Thanks for once again having the part I needed.

Unscrewed the diswasher from the counter, pulled it out to access the right main door spring and took out the old spring.I installed the plastic washer then slipped the spring throught it and pulled the spring donw with the needle nose vicegrips and inserted the bottom of the spring into the lower hole. I pushed the dishwasher back andrefastened it to the counter.

first I removed the 4 screws that hold the bottom part of the door cover and then removed the 6 bolts
with a power screw driver with nut attachment.I then reomved the 2 wires which are color coded and noted which one went where.I removed the old unit and installed the gasget and new detergengent cup,the wires,bolts and door screws.You do not have to remove the screws to the top part of the door.The screws are located inside the door on each side. Took about 20 minutes.

Clip the plastic on to the vertical pieces. No tools needed

followed the scematic on the wesbite that i used to i.d. the repair part needed. removed the front door outside cover (8 screws) removed the bi-metal switch (2 screws), did not need to replace the door latch or spring. replaced the switch and the front door cover and ran the dishwasher to test the new switch. worked fine and has been working fine.

I was not able to follow the instructions exactly since they called for stretching the belt around the back pulley with the left hand. For a woman that prooved too difficult so instead I attached the belt to the back pulley first and used 2 screw drivers (they are thin) to stretch the belt around the front pulley. It took considerable effort but I got it on!! The dishwasher now works. Praise God!!

Ours is a portable with butcher top. Three screws under the front edge allow the top to be slid forward and off. Then it is obvious which screws release the old flange.

The latch hook needs to be separated from the metal strip and inserted into the front of the flange through the slot, then secured back onto the metal strip.

Don't tighten it too much until you get the thing back together. Then adjust it so the door closes tightly and make it tight. If that machine screw works loose it allows the latch to move sideways which will widen the slot--not good.

It should be checked for tightness every year unless you want to replace that plastic part again. It should have been made of metal to begin with. I'm surprised Maytag would use plastic in such a part.

Not a difficult repair unless you are a total klutz with a screwdriver.

I removed the old flange pieces before ordering the new one, then repositioned the washer after attaching the new one to the washer top. I then attached the flange to the counter top resulting in a more stable appliance. It was simple to remove the screws and install the new flange.

Removed two panels on front bottom to gain access to motor and pump pulley.
Looped belt around motor pulley and partially looped belt on larger pump pulley then turned pump pulley together with the belt until belt was fully installed., then coated belt with silicone grease to lubricate it.. very simple procedure.

One note of precaution, UNPLUG power plug before working on appliance.

No tools were needed. The top rack was slid out as far as it could go (no need to remove from the dishwasher) and the utensil basket was removed. Matching the positioning of the other good clips on the upper rack, the new accessory rack pivot clips were snapped into place. The pins on each end of the accessory racks were placed into the pivot holes provided on the clips and pressed into placed. The bottom prong on each clip was then gently pressed upward until it snapped into the groove on the bottom of the clip. The pivot action of each rack was tested. The untensil basket was put back into place and the upper rack was slid back into the dishwasher. Done!

Since the bimetal repair kit was not available, I bought the complete detergent cup, gasket, and bimetal switch assembly set. This was still far cheaper than paying for a professional repair. All I had to do after shutting off the power is to remove screws to open up the door (door trim/6 screws & 6 screws on the inner side of door edges to remove outer wall of door). The detergent cup assembly is right there for easy access! I unplugged the 2 electric wire plugs to the bimetal switch (paying attention to which plug goes where for when I reassemble), removed the 6 screws that mount the cup assembly, removed assembly and gasket, cleaned the surfaces, and reassembled with the new assembly. Very, very easy to do and everything works like a charm!