DU2000V Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

I took the bottom cover off and pulled off 2 wires and removed 2 plastic nuts. I removed the old part and removed the O rings from the old part and installed the new heating element. Replaced the plastic nuts and the two wires. It was very simple. The hardest part was lying on my back to get to the wires and nuts.

had to remove the spray nozle and cover from the bottom of the washer to expose the stem where the lifter mounts. I had to turn the stem slightly to install it, this had to be done from the bottom of the washer and it took an extra set of hands. Once the stem was in the right position the lifter slid right on, I attached the retainer ring and put the othe parts back on. It works as good as new now.

I just replaced them with new ones. Unfortunately the new dishwasher rack was not as sturdy as the original. Hence, when it is loaded the wheel assembly sags and the center portion goes lower. Therefore, while rolling it in and out it hits the center jets and requires that we pick it up as it rolls: acceptable inconvenience but not pleasing.

I fear that with many people using it, eventually the plastic top or plastic extension of the center jet will break off.

The replacement of the spring linkage was simple - the pulling out and pushing in of the under-the-counter dishwasher was the difficult and time-consuming part. The repair of the part took less than a minute.

The actual repair -
1. Hook the linkage to the dishwasher door
2. Hook the spring to the dishwasher base
3. Hook the spring to the linkage.

Getting the dishwasher out to be able to make the repair involved:
1. Unscrewing the base panel (6 screws had to be removed)
2. Unscrewing the dishwasher from the counter (two screws)
3. Turning off the water supply
4. Disconnecting the inline water supply from the dishwasher.

Once the part was replaced, I had to return the dishwasher to its original position, which meant performing the four steps (in reverse) used to pull out the dishwasher.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

Removed old gasket and foam strip. Cleaned area. Installed door gasket. Trimmed foam strip to fit and installed.

Leak has stopped!

I removed the seven screws from the back panel of the door (special tool) and seperated the back panel from the front. My wife held the back up and I removed the two wax motors (detergent cup and rinse aid), which were clipped in place. I had turned off power to the dishwasher, so I simply unplugged each wax motor from the wiring harness, plugged the wax motors in and clipped them in place, making sure that the wiring harness was put back in the same place. Then I put the back panel back on the door, turned the power on and tested the repair. The dishwasher worked perfectly. Thanks to PartSelect for helping me solve the problem. The parts arrived in two days!

We simply removed the old gasket which was corroded, cleaned up the hard water buildup, and popped the new gasket into place. The problem was fixed! No more leak!

I took out both wax motors - tried switching the motors on the rinse dispenser and soap dispenser but they were both dead - new motors from partselect arrived fast - simple installation if you have the torx screwdriver for the door inner panel.

Removed two lower panels using nutdriver. Ran washer through a rinse cycle, to determine for sure where leak was coming from (under door on left). Examined the door gasket and observed buildup of lime deposits and a general depression of the gasket through years of use, especially in lower portions. Removed the old gasket observing how installed. Cleaned out groove with Lime-away and toothbrush. Washed clean using water in a squirt bottle. Dried things out using paper towels, and then pressed new gasket into place, starting at lower left. Readjusted the gasket to fit precisely end to end. Shut door and ran a drip free load.

I first changed the dispenser door latch grommet, which was very eazy except for the left side nut screw which was a little awkwaed to get to with the nut driver. Not a big problem but difficult enough that i stripped the threads (plastic) and had to get a larger screw which is working fine so far. Since the grommet didn't stop the leaking although it was obvious it was leaking from the soap trail. I ordered the gasket and got it very promptly put it on and guess what. Still leaked some. I discovered when they installed the dishwasher the door appeared to be warped. To fix this there are two door tension springs under the bottom panel. By adjusting these with a log screw driver problem finally solved.
It is good to have not only a great place to get parts but the idea's from others are terrific. Although this washer is 15 years old it looks new and now acts new. Thanks so much for good service and advise.

First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

Lifted out the old rack and set in the new one. The raised portion of the new rack was not high enough to clear the lower spray tower, so I adjusted the back wheel "axles" downward about 3/8" with pliers, which raised the rear of the rack enough to clear the tower.

I had to remove the screws around the door frame and remove the side panels that attached the inside cover from the interior of the door. Once I removed it I could then unscrew the top cover that then allowed me to remove an inside cover for the internal electrical connections and the door latch was then open for repair. The electrical connections to both sides of the door switch and holder assemby had to be pulled from the assembly and I was then able to remove the assembly and the door latch. The new door holder and latch handle had to be connected to the electrical wires and inserted back into the door and the initial process was reversed to reinstall.

Very easy to do. Used needle nose pliers just to get a first grip on the door gasket and then pulled it completely out. Pulled up the Water Deflectors by hand. Cleaned the gasket trough with a soft cloth, warm water and dishwashing detergent. Rinsed. Then simply pushed the gasket into the trough, lightly tapping into place, then pushed on the water deflectors, and no more leak!