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DTH18ZBSARWW
DTH18ZBSARWW General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the DTH18ZBSARWW
[Viewing 7 of 7]
Manuals & Care Guides for DTH18ZBSARWW
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Evaporator Fan Grommet - Red
PartSelect #: PS963756
Manufacturer #: WR02X12008
If you notice that your refrigerator or freezer is noisy or too warm, you may need to replace the evaporator fan grommet. This part is red in color, and is about 1 inch in diameter. The evaporator fan...
$13.21
In Stock
Evaporator/Condensor Fan Grommet
PartSelect #: PS284555
Manufacturer #: WR02X10098
This evaporator fan motor grommet, or condenser fan grommet is built for refrigerators. It provides a cushion between the fan motor and the motor mounting bracket. It is made or round, black plastic a...
$11.59
In Stock
Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.56
In Stock
Compression Ring
PartSelect #: PS1015726
Manufacturer #: WR02X12149
This compression ring is meant to hold the evaporator fan motor in place in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. This is is a genuine OEM part. The tools needed to complete this repair are a ...
$9.88
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
In Stock
Condenser Fans Blade Assembly
PartSelect #: PS1022410
Manufacturer #: WR60X10207
The condenser fan blade assembly helps to regulate the temperature in your refrigerator or freezer. This fan assembly has 4 blades, but other fans may have 3 blades, so be sure to check the number of ...
$17.89
In Stock
Package of 12 Screws
PartSelect #: PS312573
Manufacturer #: WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
No Longer Available
Door Hinge Nylon Washer
PartSelect #: PS12344581
Manufacturer #: WR01X27364
This is the replacement hinge washer for your refrigerator. The hinge washer is mounted on the top of the door hinge pin, and supports the refrigerator door, allowing it to open and close easily. The ...
$9.47
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS1020128
Manufacturer #: WR01X10590
This refrigerator door handle mounting screw connects your refrigerator door to the handle. The part is less than 1 inch in length, and can come in both silver and gold colors. When installing this sc...
$8.06
In Stock
REFRIGERATOR VEGETABLE BIN
PartSelect #: PS12299419
Manufacturer #: WR32X28064
This part has slanted at the back and also known as a 1/2 pan. Sold individually.
$84.96
In Stock
Compressor Start Relay
PartSelect #: PS11766700
Manufacturer #: WR07X26748
This part is the replacement compressor start relay for your refrigerator. It is made of black plastic and is approximately 1 ¼ inches long and 1 inch wide. The compressor start relay attaches to the ...
$16.90
In Stock
Questions And Answers for DTH18ZBSARWW
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Common Symptoms of the DTH18ZBSARWW
[Viewing 11 of 11]Noisy
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Light not working
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Fridge too warm
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Will Not Start
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Freezer section too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Door won’t open or close
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Clicking sound
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Leaking
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Won’t start
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Frost buildup
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
116 of 144 people
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Freezer & Frig Were Not Cold
First I removed the rear cover, located at the bottom of the refrigerator. Then I cleaned out the dirt & dust on and around the compressor. The relay has a cover, that is secured with a spring loaded clip. To release the clip, push in with your fingers, while disengaging the end clip with a screwdriver. Once one side is off the ot
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her lifts off. Remove cove exposing the relay. There is one wire terminated, with a spade clip, remove it. With a strait blade screwdriver, pry the relay off the 2 post it slides on to. (Don't be surprised if it breaks into pieces, as they are sometimes brittle. ) Slide the new relay onto the 2 posts, replace the wire onto the right terminal, and replace the relay cover & clip. Replace the rear cover. Plug in and test.
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Parts Used:
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Sam from Cooper City, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Freezer coils icing up, fridge too warm
Had to remove inside panels to expose coils in freezer. Used hair dryer and towels to de-ice. Reading online learned about defrost heater (long thin glass tube with wire coil in it I could not see b/c up under the inside of the coils). Who would have guessed freezers have heaters in them!! And learned the defrost timer (inside the fridge)
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is just a continuous clock turning on and off the defrost heater. Anyways I used a screwdriver to turn the timer to defrost mode and by disconnecting the wires from each end of the heater and measuring the voltage, I found 70 volts there. Hmmm. I didn't know what was the right volt amount.
Reading online I also found out the defrost Thermostat is basically a temp actuated on/off switch for that heater, so that while the timer is sending *120* volts to the heater (which gets red hot by the way) the therm switches the heater off when the temp gets high in the freezer.
I eyeballed the therm ( it looks like a little can) and I saw that it was coming apart. The key at this moment is you can cut out and bypass the therm to see if the heater works. If it does you know the therm is the bad boy. But only do this as a momentary test or the heater will probably set your fridge on fire after a while!
Always remember to unplug the fridge when you are messing with the wires! And dry it up inside before putting your hands and tools in there!
So I ordered a therm using the model # of the fridge. Had to cut the old out and strip / wire nut the new one in.
Took too long b/c I was hung up on the heater being bad (after all it didn't heat up when I put the timer in defrost) and not knowing about the rights volts to the heater.
PartSelect helped out great! Thanks!
Reading online I also found out the defrost Thermostat is basically a temp actuated on/off switch for that heater, so that while the timer is sending *120* volts to the heater (which gets red hot by the way) the therm switches the heater off when the temp gets high in the freezer.
I eyeballed the therm ( it looks like a little can) and I saw that it was coming apart. The key at this moment is you can cut out and bypass the therm to see if the heater works. If it does you know the therm is the bad boy. But only do this as a momentary test or the heater will probably set your fridge on fire after a while!
Always remember to unplug the fridge when you are messing with the wires! And dry it up inside before putting your hands and tools in there!
So I ordered a therm using the model # of the fridge. Had to cut the old out and strip / wire nut the new one in.
Took too long b/c I was hung up on the heater being bad (after all it didn't heat up when I put the timer in defrost) and not knowing about the rights volts to the heater.
PartSelect helped out great! Thanks!
Read less
Parts Used:
-
Tim from West Palm Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
32 of 35 people
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