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Models > DPSR483EA1WW > Instructions

DPSR483EA1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DPSR483EA1WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DPSR483EA1WW
31-45 of 463
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dryer was cutting off completely.

  • Customer: Stephen from Mechanicsville, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. When the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm.
I replaced it and the unit worked.

Drum Bearing slides were worn and broken, dryer made high-pitched noise.

  • Customer: Gary from Glenmoore, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
First, let me say that my repairman said the bearing and slides would cost between $150-200, and the total repair would be pushing $400, so we should just get a new dryer. Well, the total cost for the parts was less than $50.

The installation was easy.
1. Remove the two bottom screws of the door hinges, loosen the two top screws, and remove the door.
2. Unscrew the two screws, under the upper lip of the door opening, that secure the front panel to the top panel.
3. Pull the front of the top panel up, and then pull the panel off.
4. Remove the bulb from the front panel.
5. Unscrew the two screws, from inside the dryer, that secure the front panel to the frame.
6. Pull the front panel away from the drum and frame. Had to lift the drum slightly to do this. The electrical connection wire was still attached to the front panel.
7. Slide off the old drum bearing from the inside of the front panel.
8. Insert 4 new slides onto the new bearing.
9. Slide the new bearing onto the rim of the opening in the front panel.
10. Reset the front panel back into the slots at the bottom front of the frame, with the bearing fitting into the drum. Again, had to lift the drum slightly to do this, and make sure the wire was not caught between the front panel and frame.
11. Re-secured the front panel to the frame with the two screws.
12. Replaced the bulb in the front panel.
13. Replaced the top, and re-secured it with the two screws.
13. Put the door back on.
Quiet dryer once again! And saved the $800, including installation, a new gas dryer would have cost us!

replacement of holed lint screen

  • Customer: Mark from Clarksville, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 18 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
straightforward swap, just form the top rail and click it in

only orderd two sliders needed four

  • Customer: William from Leesburg, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
easy no problem

Faint Squeek after dryer had been running for an hour or so

  • Customer: Stephanie from Cicero, IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 22 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer.
Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the top
Remove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each side
Remove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes off
Lift drum out of dryer
Use the torx bit to remove the bearing
If you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housing
This is the perfect time to remove all dust bunnies
Re-install everything in reverse order

Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months

  • Customer: Richard from Hedgesville, WV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs)
1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door.
2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed.
3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside
4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully
5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly
6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time.
7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.
8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas
9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.
10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)
11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.
12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.
13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into
place.
14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!

The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.
I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.

loud screeching

  • Customer: Roger from Salyersville, KY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
5 minutes! loosened 4 screws pulled front off replaced bearing, felt, and slides. put everything back together, tightened screws. Worked like a NEW ONE!!!!

Noisy and took too long to dry clothes

  • Customer: Bruno from Somerdale, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
Easy repair. Removed top of dryer and removed two screws to front panel and door assembly. Old front air duct assembly was worn and broken, so it literally fell off the panel. I cleaned the front panel and door assembly of all the lint and dirt, and snapped the new parts into place. The new parts came with the gasket and felt drum seal already installed, to all that had to be done was to snap it into place. Installing the drum slides was a breeze. I simply had to slide one end in the slot, position the hole over the pin, and slide the other end in. I put everything back together, and ran a full cycle for test. Dryer works like new, and run quiet.

Heat deflector was covered in melted plastic

  • Customer: Charles from Alexandria, VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 20 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Someone I'm related to by marriage accidentally dried a plastic-coated tablecloth on high heat, and our heat deflector was hosed. I was very happy to find this part here for such a reasonable price; Sears wanted about $65 for it. Installation required a Torx bit, and removing the old one was easy, but the dryer's design made it difficult to reinstall the heat deflector while keeping the dryer running concentrically. I ended up cutting the heads off three screws, threading those into the plate behind the drum, sliding the new heat deflector on over those, and then one by one replacing them with the original Torx head screws. Once I figured it out it didn't take long but it took me a while to figure it out. That's probably more a reflection on me than the dryer!

Noisy running, slow turning dryer

  • Customer: Laura from Sonora, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 48 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it.
I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first!
Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another.
Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it.
I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post.
Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge.
Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel.
I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter.
Put on the top panel and done!

Wouldn't start

  • Customer: Pauline from South Portland, ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 49 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front panel,tiped up the top panel ,removed the drum, drive belt,motor and exaust tube assembly. cleaned and vaccumed all lint from every were. Removed motor from fan blade and houseing. Reinstalled moter and pulley that came with the moter and fan blade. reinstalled all of the rest of the parts and plugedin the wires. once all back together pluged into outlet and turned on and prasto works great.

Dryer wouldn't heat up

  • Customer: Heidi from Newfield, NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 19 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
I wanted to fix the cheapest possible problem first which was the thermostat.

Got the dryer apart and it was the wrong thermostat for the dryer, which was good news! I looked in inside floor of the dryer cabinet and saw alot of tiny "springs". Couldn't figure how they got there.

Turned out they were coils from the heating element. Must have burnt out and fell free from the element. So I ordered that and replaced it.

I want to say that I'm in NJ and I ordered that thermostat and got it in ONE DAY! Thought that was too good to be true but when I ordered the heating element THAT CAME IN ONE DAY!

I don't know what kind of people work in the shipping department but they are awesome! You really made the difference on this job.

So did the info on your website. I've never even seen a dryer apart before. It was a piece of cake thanks to you guys. You just saved me about $500.

Dryer Making Scraping Noise - Front Side

  • Customer: Kevin from Laguna Niguel, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Read the other posts - they are very good. On my particular dryer it took two Slide WH and two Slide Dryer Drum Side PS266785.

Most time spent was vaccuming out and removing a softball size ball of lint clogging the dryer - now it will actually dry clothes!

Part select delivery is really fantastic (even though it took me three orders to get it right!).

Door handle broken

  • Customer: Jennie from Louisville, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Inserted handle into slots

Horrible screeching noise when the dryer drum was in motion, cracked pieces were tangling and ripping the drying clothes.

  • Customer: MonaLisa from Bronx, NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the top of the dryer (unscrewed from the inside to release the top). Removed interior screws to pull open the front of the dryer. Once inside, it was really visible that the old parts (front air duct top and bottom) were in bad shape. They were cracked and broken. I removed the old pieces (they pretty much cracked and crumbled right off). I snapped in the new pieces careful to avoid damaging the electrical connections and wires. Once snapped into place (top and bottom), I careful put the front back into place making sure that the dryer drum rested on the new pieces. All screws back in place and all done! Dryer is now working as new!!!
All Instructions for the DPSR483EA1WW
31-45 of 463